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Jeep wrangler build


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You're a clever soul Dan.
Careful Stephen, any more of that and my head won't fit back out the door!

There's no call to put me on a plinth, I'm an asshole with reasonable Metalworking skills and a decent imagination, nothing more.

Anyway stop inflating my ego, and get your 90 fixed so we can get out laneing again.

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I was a little concerned the shock hoops would flex at the top, and the inlet manifold is in the way of a straight bar between the tops of them so I decided to put a cross in the front of them.

The tube clamps are from p&p.

DSC_0036_zps9a372d4f.jpg

DSC_0035_zpsfc0dc322.jpg

DSC_0032_zpsc79c24df.jpg

Nearly good enough to post on pirate.

DSC_0026_zps45e5f692.jpg

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Anyway stop inflating my ego, and get your 90 fixed so we can get out laneing again.

As we speak the 90 is out the back with a rotten cross member cut off and a new one ready to go on..... Just as soon as the unexpected rot behind the crossmember is re fabricated.

Once done I will love to hit the lanes with you again - it's way over due :-)

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You could've got the tubes in line :ph34r: No way I could do one that neat, how many stops and starts did it take you to get all the way around?
In the words of the Welding stig, "if it was perfect it would be an affront to Allah"

They were done with 2 stop-starts, I generally aim for 3 but if a

joint is difficult to access that can be impossible.

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Nearly good enough to post on pirate.

DSC_0026_zps45e5f692.jpg

Maybe if you post it on pirate, it would bring you back to earth. :SVA go away:

On a serious note though, about 75% of the pirate builds are pretty getto, your welds are miles better than those. You beat me hands down thats for sure!

Daan

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Probably answered my own question - disco two chassis end of front radius arm?

Have you put any serious miles on a car using this joint as a one link pivot? I see you used them previously on other unfinished builds, but you have also mentioned using LR A frame ball joints for this purpose and 3" ballistic fab joints

Why this current bush over the joints mentioned above?

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A frame ball joint was still like New after 8k, I just don't like the single sheer aspect of them.

We have had a 3" ballistic joint On the front of our Jimny trialler for 2 years without any issues. The joints do wear though and ballistic fab are not trustworthy of ordering from any more.

I really liked the way lee's drove with the A-frame ball joint at the chassis end and the bushed ends of the merc radius arms at the axle end, this was pretty much perfect.

I just like the cleaner mounting with better clearance of mounting the 1 link directly to the axle, this is the setup we have on the jimny with the balistic joint at the chassis end, this gained an awfull lot of clearance under the axle, but without any bushings crossing ruts can be painfull.

I think the D2 bushes will last long enough to be worth using. whilst giving enough bushing to cushion impacts.

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Thanks, that's the kind of information I'm after, I was looking for a ball joint solution to this joint but nothing presents itself, even truck TRE's are no larger than A frame ball joints, and truck A frame ball joints are colossal, there's just nothing in between.

In the end I choose a bush, similar in construction to the Disco 2 chassis end radius arm bush but about twice the size. Time will tell how it lasts and whether is allows enough flex

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  • 3 weeks later...

A little more progress,

The front bumper is taking shape,

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0104_zpse0266d92.jpg.html'>DSC_0104_zpse0266d92.jpg

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0106_zps1d2a3803.jpg.html'>DSC_0106_zps1d2a3803.jpg

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0105_zpsd511aa7c.jpg.html'>DSC_0105_zpsd511aa7c.jpg

And I've picked a radiator and mounted it, the Rad is out of a BMW e32 730i it fits the front panel near perfectly.

1.5" tube fits perfectly around the stock bmw rubbers for the lower mountings

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0108_zps467cd26c.jpg.html'>DSC_0108_zps467cd26c.jpg

The top mounts are some 3mm I folded up to locate the top rubbers to the front panel

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/IMG_20130529_233503_zps2a4f2402.jpg.html'>IMG_20130529_233503_zps2a4f2402.jpg

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0110_zpsa2524acd.jpg.html'>DSC_0110_zpsa2524acd.jpg

The bottom hose is quite tight on the cross for the shock mounts, but there is enough room to get a hose on

http://s238.photobucket.com/user/Gmogger/media/DSC_0107_zps7407c249.jpg.html'>DSC_0107_zps7407c249.jpg

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How did you form the radius'd fold in the top edge of the bumper? Have you got access to a press brake with a round edge die?

Wouldn't really need a round edge former to get that kind of rad on a press brake, just a nice wide V,

I used my keetona sheet metal folder, i had to heat the work piece up a little to get it past 90° though

Dan,

How did you select your radiator - was it a scrap yard tour, or do you have some info that gives rad sizes for diffferent cars to make it easier??

Adrian

I have an old nissens radiator catalogue at work, that i spent hours going through. i really struggled to find anything the right size that was still available, and that wasn't silly money.

A 200tdi rad was fairly close, a quite few of the bmw rads were close, i found this 730 rad amongst my brothers imense collection of bmw carp treasure, and if its capable of keeping a m30 cool the Isuzu will not trouble it, the BMW Rad is less than half the weight of the 200tdi Rad as well.

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Coming along well. Whats your take on the plastic endtanks on radiators in general? I know the tdi rads weigh a ton in standard form, but there is a plastic endcap version available as well. Would you risk swapping it for a plastic version at the expense of the potential split danger?

Daan

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I had to google Keetona folders, what a strange machine, what made you choose that over a traditional box pan folder or a press brake?
I've had it for years Lewis, it was in the back of the Dutch barn in front of the 4 post ramp when we did Andrews.

I would really like a 6 foot press brake, but I think the next purchase is going to be a cnc plasma table.

Coming along well. Whats your take on the plastic endtanks on radiators in general? I know the tdi rads weigh a ton in standard form, but there is a plastic endcap version available as well. Would you risk swapping it for a plastic version at the expense of the potential split danger?

Daan

My ideal choice for this would have been the stock 2.8 trooper rad, they are copper and brass with the rad cap in the top but it was just too tall to fit,

I see very few plastic end tanks failing and when they do they are normally baldly perished before they split. My brother spends his weekends badly abusing old bmws around drift circuit's and all he ever bursts are hoses.

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Don't know exactly what your looking for but came across this the other day

http://www.eddisonsauctions.co.uk/LotDetails.aspx?lotid=52051&saleid=432

Tempting Allan but I think I am going to go for a torch mate 4'x4' table, should give me every thing I need without taking up an entire car space in my workshop.

I have been working on the drivers bulkhead, I am moving the brake master and servo over by 100mm to clear the shock tower, rather than modify the already modified bulkhead I'm just cutting out and starting again.

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New panel taking shape,

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Stiffener plate visiting the keetona (poor quality pic)

DSC_0122_zpsfc23b458.jpg

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I must say I envy how much you get done during the weekdays Dan, I too used to have that 'drive' but nowadays my job drains out too much energy from me. (both physically and mentally) To get much done during the week. What's your trick?

I absolutely cannot abide idling away my time

That and I'm quite organized I have a well equipped workshop that allows me to make the best use of my time.

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