Aragorn Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Can anyone recommend anywhere in the north west (lancs) to get my bulkhead galvanised. I picked up a new one some time ago for my rebuild when they were going cheap, and theres already rusty bits appearing on most of the seams and edges from it being sat in a dampish garage, so i really want to have it blasted and galved before i paint it and put it all together. Cheers Kev Edit: i've found some mentions of Wessex Galvanising, and they have a plant in heywood (Pillar Wedge) which isnt too far away... Also, any thoughts on pre-treatments? The bulkhead is currently in some sort of factory shipping paint, which is like a matt black finish, i presume this needs to be removed BEFORE i take it to the galving place? Any thoughts on where i can get that done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 That could be the e-plating your referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 yeh it might be some sort of e-coat, Its brand new from landrover, but whatever the coating is, its not that great as the edges and seams are all looking a bit crusty. Unless you can galvanise thru the e-coat, i guess its going to need to come off via some sort of chemical dip, or perhaps sand blasting or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Can anyone recommend anywhere in the north west (lancs) to get my bulkhead galvanised.I picked up a new one some time ago for my rebuild when they were going cheap, and theres already rusty bits appearing on most of the seams and edges from it being sat in a dampish garage, so i really want to have it blasted and galved before i paint it and put it all together. Cheers Kev Edit: i've found some mentions of Wessex Galvanising, and they have a plant in heywood (Pillar Wedge) which isnt too far away... Also, any thoughts on pre-treatments? The bulkhead is currently in some sort of factory shipping paint, which is like a matt black finish, i presume this needs to be removed BEFORE i take it to the galving place? Any thoughts on where i can get that done? I rang Pillar Wedge to get my bulkhead galvanised. They would only do it if it had been completely stripped of ALL paint. The pre galvanising solution they now use is a lot less concentrated of that they used to use. it would also make a mess of the pre treatment tank. I rang a lot of paint strippers in the north west, who would only strip the bulkhead if it had been painted with house paint (gloss etc) and said the caustic soda wasnt a strong enough solution to attack car paint. I tried contacting E Coating, who specialise in dipping complete bodyshells for full car restorations, but despite several emails and phone calls go no joy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hmm thats not good, what did you do in the end? Maybe shotblasting would take the coating/paint off rather than trying to chemically dip it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Shot blasting will take it off the outsides, but what about in the cavities? Up the door pillars, the cavity across the top? Dipping is the only way to get all of the paint out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 valid point! So revised query, anyone know where i can get it dipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent nomad Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Not North West but in Hull have a look at http://www.premiergalvanizing.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Mine was only shot blasted, plus I had to scrape as much of the seam sealant off as possible as the shot blasting seemed to leave quite a bit of it behind. Was very happy with the finish of the galvanising on mine. Someone else I know had theirs done in Bristol somewhere and it was a right badgers arse of a job. Make sure the company you use is reputable. Better still is to find someone who is a regular user of the galvanisers (local engineers or fabricator?) and see if they will stick it in with one of their jobs. A regular customer is likely to receive a better service than a one off job for Joe Public. I did it that way and is perhaps why my bulkhead turned out great while my mates turned out rubbish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 I am said badger's arse owner. Don't be afraid to ask them questions before they do the job, make sure you are happy with their understanding of what you want. You can add a reinforcement bar between the mounting points for the chassis outriggers, this is to stop the length of the bulkhead distorting but it won't do anything to stop the larger flat surfaces front and rear from moving, this includes the visible edges around the bonnet and vent flaps. You could end up with a riddled surface so be prepared for working on it afterwards before painting. The sealant is what mostly made mine so utterly **** (sorry, only word that even covers it) - you need to get as much off as you can. The shot blasting barely touches it. It will melt and the galv wont stick where it was or where it moves. Also the way they hang it is something I suspect had a big impact - best to provide some way for them to do that - again, speak to them and ask their opinion. I left my bolts in place to keep the threads of the nuts clear, on reflection this was a waste of time as all of the bolts have sheared in place and need to be re-tapped anyway. I could post pictures of mine but it'll only bring back the emotions of ruining a mint bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks for that. I dont remember seeing any sealant, will need to have a closer look, but maybe it doesnt have any because its new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hi I had mine galved at a firm in Wolverhampton IIRC ,It didnt need bracing , there was no distortion , I had pre blasted it and removed all the seam sealant manually , as you dont need it as the galve will build and seal it permanently . They dipped it twice , and did a load of brackets , and fuel filler at same time . http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Edward-Howell_Galvanizers.aspx . usual disclaimers , just a satisfied customer . ps you need to retap any threaded orifices , and also the hinge for front air flaps , and open up the bonnet hinge curls as well , as the normal hinge inserts wont push in . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I had a good long chat with Ashtree at Stoneleigh last year, no year before, they don't brace anything, otherwise, as they rightly pointed out, bits don't get galv'd, and then they rust.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 So, bulkheads been stripped and galvanised, and i'm pretty happy with the outcome. Next step is trying to sort out the painting process. I'm going to try and paint it myself, but i've never used "proper" paint equipment before so i'd like some advice on the procedure, products to use etc. My plan is something like this (maybe with some adjustment to the order?): Mordant Solution Prime (high build? etch?) seam seal Coat inside and non-visible exterior areas with stonechip (mainly as a sound deadening measure) Paint Laquer? My problem is i have no idea on what paint products to use, theres various descriptions out there, like 1k, 2k, celly, iso, iso-free, basecoat, clearcoat etc etc. I've been told "1k" laquers are carp, and that while i can get away with using 1K products for the lower layers i really want to use a 2k laquer, but the issue is that this stuff is generally "bad"? I also have no idea what paints are compatible, so for instance i searched for 1K high build primer and found lots of cellulose products on ebay, but how do i know they're compatible with my chosen paint color (a vauxhall pearl) Any tips would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 So, bulkheads been stripped and galvanised, and i'm pretty happy with the outcome.Next step is trying to sort out the painting process. I'm going to try and paint it myself, but i've never used "proper" paint equipment before so i'd like some advice on the procedure, products to use etc. My plan is something like this (maybe with some adjustment to the order?): Mordant Solution Prime (high build? etch?) seam seal Coat inside and non-visible exterior areas with stonechip (mainly as a sound deadening measure) Paint Laquer? My problem is i have no idea on what paint products to use, theres various descriptions out there, like 1k, 2k, celly, iso, iso-free, basecoat, clearcoat etc etc. I've been told "1k" laquers are carp, and that while i can get away with using 1K products for the lower layers i really want to use a 2k laquer, but the issue is that this stuff is generally "bad"? I also have no idea what paints are compatible, so for instance i searched for 1K high build primer and found lots of cellulose products on ebay, but how do i know they're compatible with my chosen paint color (a vauxhall pearl) Any tips would be much appreciated! Dont know if this helps but there was an article in last months LRO mag by their resident Brit part specialist that looked a pretty tidy job, if you want to paint over HD Galv. He used mordant solution first. Personally I like the idea of galv doing its job without any post treatment, unless you want to cover for cosmetic reasons. Knowing that farmers are intrinsically as tight as a ducks bum, I think they would be painting over galvanised farm gates if it made them last longer than unpainted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 Its entirely for cosmetic reasons! I want it to be body coloured and not bright silver! Will see if i can get the LRO mag and have a look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Stonechip is the Devils Spawn. Galv does not like salt solutions, stone chip WILL crack and allow road salt solution to fester underneath it, unseen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 A couple of years ago, I fitted a new galved rear crossmember from Richards to my 90. I thought I'd paint it first and that marine paints, being designed to withstand a salty environment might be the way to go. I used Jotun Penguard (2pack) primer, and a Jotun hardtop 2pack polyurethane XP top coat. Penguard can be used without using mordant wash, just a degrease and scuff.. I also used Jotamastic 87 on the non-galv steel and that sticks very wellI. I have to say after 2 years of UK winters, it looks no worse after the mud has been jetwashed off, and it's supposed to last 15 years on ships. You're not that far away from me Aragorn, if you want a look sometime you're welcome. I like 2 pack because you don't get pinholes in the coating from solvent evaporation; supposedly you need 3 coats otherwise to ensure holes don't align, and the Jotun paints seem very good (though they are awkward to use for small areas) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 2, 2013 Author Share Posted April 2, 2013 Jeff: many cars ship with stonechip from the factory and it seems fine? My 13 year old Audi has it along the sills, and barring a small area around the jacking point its undamaged and uncracked. My thinking behind the stonechip was to provide some noise dampening as well as stone protection for the footwell areas. Cackshifter: I guess i could use 2k, but from what i've found, the color i'm wanting to spray only seems to be available in basecoat/clearcoat, but i've no idea why that is. Maybe because its a metallic? I guess its perhaps possible to use a 2k primer and then a 2k clear over the basecoat layer? But i know certain paints arent compatible, its just knowing what can and cant be used with other things. My other concern is the mordant solution is supposed to be overpainted quickly, like within 2 days, but i need to apply seam sealer, which really wants to cure before i apply paint... So do i do the mordant wash, then apply seam sealer and then primer once cured, and hope it all works, or do i prime first then apply the seam sealer later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studmuffin Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 There is some very good advice on the UK Trade website : Galvanizers Association. They give detail on pre-treatment and painting systems. I have always found various trade associations to be really helpful. I am sure if you need specific advice about a particular paint they would probably put you in touch with one of their member companies technical people. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Jeff: many cars ship with stonechip from the factory and it seems fine? My 13 year old Audi has it along the sills, and barring a small area around the jacking point its undamaged and uncracked.My thinking behind the stonechip was to provide some noise dampening as well as stone protection for the footwell areas. Cackshifter: I guess i could use 2k, but from what i've found, the color i'm wanting to spray only seems to be available in basecoat/clearcoat, but i've no idea why that is. Maybe because its a metallic? I guess its perhaps possible to use a 2k primer and then a 2k clear over the basecoat layer? But i know certain paints arent compatible, its just knowing what can and cant be used with other things. My other concern is the mordant solution is supposed to be overpainted quickly, like within 2 days, but i need to apply seam sealer, which really wants to cure before i apply paint... So do i do the mordant wash, then apply seam sealer and then primer once cured, and hope it all works, or do i prime first then apply the seam sealer later? I know what you are saying. But having restored too many cars where they had stone chip applied and water had got underneath, rotting out panels (usually in the most inaccessible areas of the vehicle), I agree, it's a Catch 22 problem. I now stick with good old fashioned paint - at least that way I can spot problems at the beginning, rather than finding out the hard way. As for sound deadening, where ever possible I put it on the inside where (here I am being the eternal optimist owning Landrovers) water cannot get beneath it. Most of the rot I found on the family Disco was underneath the factory applied stone chip, at the end of the day it is a very difficult choice; I can see the pro's and con's of both using and not using stone chip. My own compromise is to use it in areas where stonechips will be a problem i.e wheel arches.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 The other thing to think about is that a lot of the 2 pack paints are cyanide based and require specialist equipment like an air fed mask, I know some people use a normal filter, spray outside and hold their breath but at the end of the day you only have 1 pair of lungs! I got good results with synthetic enamel paint from auto paint St. Helens, it's very tolerant of being applied by a chimp like me and dries harder than a Glaswegian skin head! I always just used etch primer on galv then brushable seam sealer Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Question on a slightly different point. I have a TD5 bulkhead (from a 2005) that I want to get galved. The 'fly mesh' behind the vents appears to be steel and welded to the bulkhead, not the rivet on ali stuff like on earlier models. Obviously I can't remove it without making a lot of mess, but will it survive being dipped? Or will it just block up because the holes are so small? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I ground my flymesh off as i was told it would block up. I'm thinking i'll fit the alloy stuff before i get it all painted up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 My plan is to grind it off and then fit a pair of the rivet-on mesh pieces salvaged from an earlier bulkhead after galvanising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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