Advise on stripdown and new chassis.

[adge cutler]

Hello I am contemplating rebuilding my 300TDi Defender 90 onto a new galvanised chassis. I think from what I have been reading on the net that Richards chassis' could be the manufacturer to use, but would be grateful of any pointers on any aspect of this job. Has anybody have an idea how many man hours it may take to do (I realise there are many variables). I would hopefully just be doing a swap of old parts in the main as all drives well, just renewing rubber bushes and the like.

[tacr2man]

I reckon from my experience at it full time a week is reasonable, to allow for sourcing odds and ends , and the odd hiccup. I took a bit longer which enabled limited waiting for bits and pieces, but also added a bit to time , as breaks generate their own inefficiency HTSH

also your level of equipment and help when its needed is another important factor

[Giles]

I did it in +-10 (not always very long)working days. The biggest-time saver IMHO is to avoid dismantling any of the body; lift it off in one go. The higest point is the top of the front shocks... if you can wheel the chassis out forwards this means that you have to lift the front high enough to clear the shocks, and the back needs raising by only a few centimetres...

[Bushpig110]

Richards Chassis are very good and well worth the price , I have done the job in 2 very long days But I did make sure I have everything I thought I'd need before starting and did have a telehandler to lift the body off in one piece .

DIY on the drive a week to 10 days and you'll need help to lift the body panels ( rear tub, bulkhead ) off if you taking it apart in manageable sizes.

[Chicken Drumstick]

I'd say also think about bits you may want to/or find you need to replace along the way. Engine mounts, gearbox mounts, shocks, nuts and bolts and so on.

[Diablo]

I know people who have done it in a (very long) day.

I took 6 months... ish. but then I was changing the bulkhead, and only working weekends, and changing anything that looked a bit off/worn out etc

[FridgeFreezer]

Plan ahead, have all the nuts, bolts, bushes, clips, etc. ready. It's quicker to replace a lot of stuff with new (EG brake lines) than faff about removing manky old bits & trying to refit without breaking.

Removing stuff in big chunks makes life much easier, lifting gear and props/stands/trestles makes that easier.

This was our experience:

[adge cutler]

Thanks for the replies people. I must confess I've not visited the forum for over three years when I found it very helpful with my 90 Turbo - 200TDi conversion, unfortunately I sold that a year later when our second child was due (thought I'd better get something with more seats). I bought a Disco and have regretted the decision although I'd never say it was a bad vehicle to own. I've now bought a factory 300TDi and want to keep it as long as possible (forever?) hence my interest in the chassis swap. The video of the 48 hour swap concerns me a little as there are at least four people working taking the hour count well above my "prefered" target of 80 hours.

Obviously I had intended to have at hand when the time comes:

*Engine and gearbox mounts

*Bush kit (are polys the way to go?)

Timing belt changed under 20000 ago so that can stay although I'll take a peek, clutch fairly recent too.

Shocks I can hopefully use the old depending on further investigation. I had considered buying stainless nuts and bolts but have been advised against it and am now convinced mild is best with plenty coppaslip applied (planning ahead ).

By chance does anyone know of an available list of the fixings needed as I would like them to hand.

I have been offer the use of a hard standing (nice and level) below a high beam with chain hoist, lifting the body as one should be possible, I beleive this will save a lot of allignment hassle and time.

Once again my thanks for all your help and comments.

[Scotts90]

I am at the stage of doing a chassis swap myself. I had done one in the past with a similar ethos to you...quick changeover and re-use as much as possible. This was a 110 pickup, so it was logical to break it down into front/middle/rear in terms of bodywork removal. Axles were swapped, bushes were replaced as were the brake lines.

It was however a means to an end and my current swap will take as long as necessary with most parts being restored or refurbed or replaced if possible. I always regret not getting the time to do the 110 the way I wanted and every time it comes back for a pre-MOT check I shake my head.

Not everyone has the luxury of the time and space to do long rebuilds, I think your 80hour target is achievable if its a "swapover" job.

I debated between Marsland and Richards, Marsland chassis are built the same as standard LR with weld seams top and bottom joining the 2 C channels (2mm), Richards are built from 4separate plates and are 3mm....so 1/3 heavier prior to galvanising.

I opted for Marsland, very good to deal with and couldn't be more helpful on the phone.....it arrived today

[oneandtwo]

I have had four Richards chassis (series and 90) My next one will be a Marsland. While Richards are not a bad product by any stretch, the ones I've had seem to be beset by human error. First one had to go back as they'd got a spring hanger wonky and it fouled the spring. Second one had a visible twist front to back, I seem to remember this chassis was delayed as the galvanising was messed up and had to be redone - possibly why it was twisted. My 300tdi 90 one has the a frame x member 1/2" out side to side.

[oneandtwo]

Marsland chassis are genuine landrover ones BTW, they buy them direct from GKN and weld on engine mounts to suit.

[GW8IZR]

Marsland was spot on for me. Easy to deal with and no defects / alignment issues at all.

[CwazyWabbit]

......

By chance does anyone know of an available list of the fixings needed as I would like them to hand.

.....

This post might help with that http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76114&p=657703

Have a read of the whole thread as the guy was pretty good at documenting everything that got bought/replaced and was on a tight schedule to like yourself.

[C18RCH]

Mine went in for the MoT today. Looking back through my build log, The chassis was delivered on the 15th March 2011. Because Iwas working on it at my parents in Sheffield I didn't get a lot of time on it, hence the time it has taken (2 years, 3 months and 4 days). My dad also became terminally ill in that period and I didn't work on it for 9 months. Anyway, in total, including a complete re-spray, every nut and bolt replaced, new wiring loom, new bulkhead, doors, seats, windscreen, suspension, brakes, radiator, fuel tank and lines, power steering conversion, extended breathers, etc, working almost entirely on my own, it has taken me about 420 hours (most of which was the re-spray).

What advise would I give:

Label and photograph EVERYTHING. Wiring especially. And then make notes on it. I thought I was really good at this but I still had a few what the h£ll is that part moments.

Keep everything you take off until it is finished. I've had a few whish I'd kept that bracket/bolt moments. Even if it's just to make it easier to find a replacment.

Keep everything organised. Again, I thought I was good at this but still lost bits.

Buy new rubber/gaskets for all the doors, bulkhead components (if you intend removing them).

Buy a sheet of gasket rubber to make your own for some components. Much easier and cheaper than nipping to the shop every 5 minutes for the one you forgot.

Buy loads of M8 bolt/nuts/washers in various lengths. No matter how many I bought I seemed to run out.

Get a decent wire brush for and angle grinder. It was the only thing that would shift some of the rust.

If you don't want to replace it, don't remove it. Every time I took something off, I wasn't happy with it and though, well, since it's off I'll just replace it.

What started as a simple chassis swap evolved into a full re-build. Including the chassis and galv bulkhead it's cost me almost £5k.