Anderzander Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Just wondered what's the best method for welding in new engine mounts ? I was thinking of using the engine crane to lower the new motor in, with the whole mount assemies fitted, and bolt it all up to the gearbox - then tweaking here and there, tack welding the mounts before removing the engine again and seam welding the mounts properly. Any suggestions, comments, or thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Yup, that's how I have done it.... can't possibly be in the wrong place then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Nice logical sense! that's how I would do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Only other thoughts were about accounting for any compression the rubber mounts would be under once the steel mounts were welded in .... Or is that negligible - can't say I've ever noticed if they compress much ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 That's how I've always done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 There didn't seem to be any compression in my mount rubbers when I put the engine back in. We used the same method as you mentioned to install a 300tdi a few years ago and it worked perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Thanks guys. Soon as I've finished assembling the garage, fitting new mounts will be the first job on my series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Yup, thats how i did it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongie Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 If you've no mounts at all put props On too to ensure angles are ok. That's what I've just done for tdi and 5sp box in my 101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 thats how i do it, i always make note to allow 5 or so mm extra height for any compression of the rubber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Good tacks, then let the engine settle on the mounts, whilst still on the crane. The classic mistake when retrofitting a tdi for example is that the timing case hits the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob86 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Might be obvious but leave the clutch out when you mock it up. It makes it a lot easier to bolt the engine to the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Depressing how long ago I asked this ! Anyhow - I finally have the garage built to work on the series. So - a further question - which set of holes would you use on the engines left side: The front or the rear ? Does one offer any advantage over the other ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B reg 90 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 If your reffering to a 300 TDi - use the mount holes on the block nearest the middle of the block - causes the engine to be moslty supported by front mounts, this means the bell housing is under less stress, hecne deflects less. Supposed to reduce noise/harshness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Thanks for the reply - it's a 200, but that was the point I was wondering about. With changing the chassis mounts; I guess I can pick up either of the mounting holes on the left - and I wondered if one carried the weight better than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 200 uses the forward bracket position on a standard Defender 200tdi. as engine sits behind the front axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Roberts Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Kits on eBay come with their own templates.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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