Souster Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Has anyone got any experience of these? Are they up to the job? They're a good price Going to be using the 90 offroading mainly and little miles per year. Nothing serious though. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Ive just fitted a set, quality is just as good as genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 ^^^ And thats a recomendation ? ........... Ashcroft are Made from EN24T and are worth the money, KAM were made of EN36 = also bludy tough bearmach are cheap - doubt they are made from 24/36 ? If these are the ones with caps then forget them, if they are the ashcroft types copies - then better than caps, but there is a reason they are cheap !Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamC Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'm not keen on fitting really tough drive flanges. Given how cheap and easy to replace they are I'd rather that be the weak link in the drive train as it kind of acts like a fuse protecting the diff etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'm not keen on fitting really tough drive flanges. Given how cheap and easy to replace they are I'd rather that be the weak link in the drive train as it kind of acts like a fuse protecting the diff etc. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Interesting thought ! However Whilst I would agree on say Std shafts, if your running KAM AS or Ashcroft I would say "Upgrade". The std flanges can work loose very quickly and the shunting back and forth doesn't do the splines much good at all hardened or not ! The ashcroft flanges I had had to be "Tapped" onto the shafts, and never wore loose, the KAM AS and KAM flanges I have now seem the same Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Looks like it depends a bit on your future plans for a difflock or shafts? Having the screw on caps of the Ashcroft is great if you are going to be rubbing them along stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Having the screw on caps of the Ashcroft is great if you are going to be rubbing them along stuff wow you must have bicycle width wheels/tyres to be able to rub the end of your drive members on stuff... The ashcroft flanges I had had to be "Tapped" onto the shafts, and never wore loose, the KAM AS and KAM flanges I have now seem the same Yes the newer (proper coated) KAM drive flanges are a very close fit i have to beat them on. My weak point now is the flange bolts (even running 12.9's) easily shear all 5 (new ones) in one go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I presume he's talking about standard bearmach drive flange replacements. not the HD flanges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Cheers for the replies fellas. Some interesting thoughts there. Yeah im just looking at the standard drive flanges really. On a budget really, but by no means will buy cr*p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I changed my drive flanges purely to get the screw down caps , as the plastic ones seem to split in no time , the original ones lasted years ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Original caps were rubber stuff I think? 'bike wheels' - Dents in the wheel rims suggest a lot of unusual things happen out of my sight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I tend to think you need to spend at least around £15 to get something similar to OEM quality. The cheapest ones are around £6. Genuine are £100! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Drive flanges fail from wear, not overload.... So they can't act like a fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_grieve Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'm with Steve on this one, my wheels are as offset as anyone else's and you can see splines on all my drive flange caps. Why they changed to rubbery plastic ones I'll never know, like the cooling system plugs, some bean counter got to overrule the engineers. Here's some nice drive flange carnage only wearers of a certain outdoor clothing will truly appreciate. I think when a drive shaft and flange get to this state the fuse argument might become valid :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 wow you must have bicycle width wheels/tyres to be able to rub the end of your drive members on stuff... Yes the newer (proper coated) KAM drive flanges are a very close fit i have to beat them on. My weak point now is the flange bolts (even running 12.9's) easily shear all 5 (new ones) in one go If you are experiencing loosening or shearing driveflange bolts, this indicates that the axle housing is slightly out of true, and the more precise fit of the better quality flanges don't allow the halfshaft to 'wobble' a little inside the flange to compensate. Loosening/shearing drive flange bolts was very rare on RangRover classics, despite the flanges being a rigid ,integral part of the halfshaft. This indicates that manufacturing quality control in producing straight axle housings back in the earlier days was much stricter than later on where the incidence of Disco's shearing bolts is much more common. I think there is something to be said for running original quality drive flanges and convert hubs to run oil not bloody grease ! Earlier oil lubed 110 Salisbury axles commonly lasted 300,000 kms or more before driveflanges got a bit sloppy. Yes, the splines were longer. but that is not the sole reason for their better longevity ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 If you are experiencing loosening or shearing driveflange bolts, this indicates that the axle housing is slightly out of true, and the more precise fit of the better quality flanges don't allow the halfshaft to 'wobble' a little inside the flange to compensate. Loosening/shearing drive flange bolts was very rare on RangRover classics, despite the flanges being a rigid ,integral part of the halfshaft. This indicates that manufacturing quality control in producing straight axle housings back in the earlier days was much stricter than later on where the incidence of Disco's shearing bolts is much more common. I think there is something to be said for running original quality drive flanges and convert hubs to run oil not bloody grease ! Earlier oil lubed 110 Salisbury axles commonly lasted 300,000 kms or more before driveflanges got a bit sloppy. Yes, the splines were longer. but that is not the sole reason for their better longevity ! Now that's very likely. Nothing is straight or true on my truck any more... Last time I sheared all the bolts the half shaft let go at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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