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Cornish Rattler

Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

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It’s looking great 👍🏻

Very different caller on the Series x-brake to the Defender one. I hadn’t realised that.

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Is that gearbox painted, or do they have some magic way of cleaning old aluminium?

It looks great!

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2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

What’s next ? Brake lines and onto the bulkhead? 

Yeah just got a couple of small jobs to do first like swap the new BP relay to a Bearmach one plus fit the two arms to the relay then yeah its the bulkhead and front panel to be painted and fitted but need to get the paint first :)

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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Is that gearbox painted, or do they have some magic way of cleaning old aluminium?

It looks great!

Yep painted although the new transfer case now looks dated :(

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2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

It’s looking great 👍🏻

Very different caller on the Series x-brake to the Defender one. I hadn’t realised that.

Yeah i've just got the two L shaped brackets to fit but without instructions i'm not sure where and how they fit :(

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Painted and fitted the h/b lever inc the linkage between the h/b lever and X brake lever, adjusted accordingly and set at 2 clicks then replaced the new BP steering relay with a new Bearmach one inc new arms and coller, just need to dig out the clutch mech which will finish fitting the gearbox off ( forgot all about it ) :(

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The hand brake looks nice and simple there 👍🏻😊

Have you painted your hi/low lever too? It’s looking very smart.

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

The hand brake looks nice and simple there 👍🏻😊

Have you painted your hi/low lever too? It’s looking very smart.

Yeah, the only one i've left out is the gear lever as i plan to fit a slick shift but the gear lever with that is stainless steel so not sure if to paint it or not but think it will look out of place left stainless steel so probably will.

Edited by Cornish Rattler
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Well I literally emptied the garage out today to look for the clutch release shaft to no avail so I've had to resort to buying a new one which should be here hopefully next week so once I put everything back I fitted the steering rods and injector pipes then a delivery of more bits arrived amongst them was a gallon of ep90 gear oil and a new slave cylinder so I immediately set work on fitting the slave cylinder and topping up the gearbox and transfer box :)

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I can think of 3 things on my 80” that I totally lost - bought replacements for - only to then have them bizarrely reappear  ! 

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Yeah its very anoying as i remember painting it when i painted the slave cylinder mount bracket must be at least 12 months ago now :(

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Dragged the tub in this morning and started work cleaning all the crud from the underneath then removed the X members and all the aditianal nuts and bolts the p.o had put in over the years, just need to sort out a couple of holes in the yub where the X members have been that i need to sort out :)

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Made a few small repairs to the tub today as there was 5 points where the X members fix to the rails so I plated all 15 points so the X members would fit proper then I repaired the hole in the floor, I do plan to chequer plate the inside of the tub so the rivets where the patch on the floor will be covered 

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one pic of the plates riveted in place and one with the hole plated.

 

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Edited by Cornish Rattler
wrong pic

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41 minutes ago, Cornish Rattler said:

...  I do plan to chequer plate the inside of the tub ...

Here I'm mainly repeating observations by someone who did similar, but also using my experience of cleaing a trailer of sand and crushed stone.

With anything other than a smooth surface it's almost impossible to sweep the area clean, which means there are always bits to shake loose and be distributed into the door / tailgate seal, making life difficult for the hinges (and the operator) when closing the door or tailgate.

If the aim of the chequer was to inhibit free movement of 'load', without having to bother strapping it down, I'd wonder out load if the solution would work as expected.
If the aim was to enable easier movement of load due to reduced surface area contact, again I'd question if that actually helps.
I'd expect engagement and jamming when you don't want it, as in positioning the load, but for the jamming restraint to be ineffective when the vehicle is travelling.

Also, have you compared the price of chequer plate, of whatever style of chequer, with the price of flat aluminium? (Other load floor covering materials are available).

Regards.

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The floor on my 109 is truly rubbish. I think the local authority used it to spread salt, or something. All the ribs are rotten and repaired,  like yours. The galv rubbing strips rotted out, and the rivet holes disappeared, too.

When I do the major restoration, maybe in 6 years or so, I'll look into totally replacing the floor, but I don't think it will be an easy job, is a complex assembly for a DIY build. 

What I was thinking of doing was cheating, and just skinning it with 1mm ally sheet, stuck on with Tiger seal.

Or finding a good floor somewhere else.

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34 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

What I was thinking of doing was cheating, and just skinning it with 1mm ally sheet, stuck on with Tiger seal.

I think that’s a good option, especially on the floor where it is going be recessed to cover the sides.

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2 hours ago, David Sparkes said:

Here I'm mainly repeating observations by someone who did similar, but also using my experience of cleaing a trailer of sand and crushed stone.

With anything other than a smooth surface it's almost impossible to sweep the area clean, which means there are always bits to shake loose and be distributed into the door / tailgate seal, making life difficult for the hinges (and the operator) when closing the door or tailgate.

If the aim of the chequer was to inhibit free movement of 'load', without having to bother strapping it down, I'd wonder out load if the solution would work as expected.
If the aim was to enable easier movement of load due to reduced surface area contact, again I'd question if that actually helps.
I'd expect engagement and jamming when you don't want it, as in positioning the load, but for the jamming restraint to be ineffective when the vehicle is travelling.

Also, have you compared the price of chequer plate, of whatever style of chequer, with the price of flat aluminium? (Other load floor covering materials are available).

Regards.

The chequer plate will only fitted for show really as the rear wheel arches are full of holes from the past owners and won't be carrying heavy weight as i have a trailer for anything heavy , was thinking of buying a tub chequer plate kit which covers the floor, wheel arch sides and tops they are expensive but saves cutting everything out from scratch 🙂

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Well, after posting on this, I went to eBay.

And found an outfit that make new floors!

I can't see a LWB version, but they do 90 and SWB.

Not mad money either, about £200.

Things that make you go "ummmm".

G.

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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Well, after posting on this, I went to eBay.

And found an outfit that make new floors!

I can't see a LWB version, but they do 90 and SWB.

Not mad money either, about £200.

Things that make you go "ummmm".

G.

Yeah if i was rebuilding it to sell then i would have replaced the floor with new but as its a keeper this will have to do :)

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