Peaklander Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Great stuff - so glad you persevered and I think that's a smile at the end! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Is that an ex mod engine? Liberal duck egg blue on the manifold? Perhaps it's a squaddy be bodge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Yeh it's a smile ! :-) It's an ex military yes. I said the same to my mate about an army job. I'll never know I guess. The chap I bought it from only owned it a month as he was buying a recovery truck to start a business. The chap before him though off roaded it a bit, so we don't know if it's his handy work or someone else's. Managed to free up tomorrow afternoon so I'm heading over then to finish off the job....... Fingers crossed or you'll all see the second installment of the 110 Ex military.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I will be interested to see how you get on with changing the belt as I have to do mine real soon (I have started gathering the bits together to make a puller for my pulley) what bits are you planning on changing - belt, tensioner? I presume there is a gasket on the big timing belt cover, water pump? or just gasket? crank seal. It's a ruddy pest to get into to change a cam belt and you can't even have a look to see if the belt is ok. so not a job you want to do too often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 once you have done it once it will come apart easily next time , copperslip is your friend. DC , if you are going to do the crank seal behind the timing belt pulley be prepared , it will almost certainly be rusted on too , a clean back to shiny steel on the crank nose first as well good work getting it off Steveb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Kevm take a look here, as usual this forum has all you need to know and as you can see, tons of help when you need it ! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880 Steve b, we'll decide when we go in tomorrow about the crank seal....... Yip I'll make sure I can see my face in that crank nose, might not be a great thing to see that ! 3 in 1 oil and WD at the ready along with wet and dry paper. Might need something a little rougher to get the crud off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I'm all for " if it's not leaking don't touch it " , that said if it's stuck I'd be inclined to fix all the issues so when you do go there next time , it's text book . cheers Steveb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leaky40 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Well done and congratulations. The elation of beating an issue like this is exhilarating. I had a 2 year issue which I finally solved and it was a wonderful day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 DC. I would be wary of taking too much off with course emery, clean it up a bit and try your new/replacement pulley on. Loose could be worse than the previous way too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I use a wire brush in an electric drill. The crank is very hard so unless you press very hard it won't get damaged. Watch those water pump bolts. They have a bad habit of snapping. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Hmmmm only got larger wire brushes unless the mate has a drimmel or similar, yep we've been slowly undoing the bolts and putting plus gas on them all when working on the pulleys, hopefully it's worked its magic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Hmmmm only got larger wire brushes unless the mate has a drimmel or similar, yep we've been slowly undoing the bolts and putting plus gas on them all when working on the pulleys, hopefully it's worked its magic. After 30 years in oil refining, working with extreme pressures & temperatures, corrosive liquids and marine conditions I’m a great advocate of copper grease and Penol releasing fluid produced by chemodex.co.uk Take a look and save yourself future headaches, they are far superior. WD40 I found to be really only a water displacer but with a great advertising team it can do just about anything!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 DC, Just been looking at my pulley and measuring to make a puller, I took the big bolt out (starter method) to check it and it is the wrong bolt (I thought it looked odd) someone has put in the later, longer bolt and packed it out with washers and a spare nut, I have yet to find anything on the land rover that hasn't been bodged about with! Your pulley setup looks the same as mine but do you have a viscous coupled fan on it as I am thinking of fitting one on mine? Keep us informed of your progress - I for one am very interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 After 30 years i... I’m a great advocate of copper grease and Penol releasing fluid produced by chemodex.co.uk ... Interesting. I have been using Plus gas for years, but more because it SOMETIMES acts as a beneficial very thin lubricant AFTER the nut has started to move. I have lost faith in it's ability to penetrate anything tight enough to be worthy of special attention. In the last 24 months I've found Penol, and used it with optimism but the same lack of conviction. I'm only a hobby 'engineer' and my recent involvement has dropped off markedly, so I am unable to recount good experiences, I'm heartened to read your positive assessment. 'Copper grease' (my tin may not have that exact phrase on it) I use merely because it's there. Read the contents, see how much copper is involved, and you begin to see why sometimes copper is spelt copa. Do you have a source (trade name) of grease with a meaningful amount of copper in it? Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 DC, Just been looking at my pulley and measuring to make a puller, I took the big bolt out (starter method) to check it and it is the wrong bolt (I thought it looked odd) someone has put in the later, longer bolt and packed it out with washers and a spare nut, I have yet to find anything on the land rover that hasn't been bodged about with! Your pulley setup looks the same as mine but do you have a viscous coupled fan on it as I am thinking of fitting one on mine? Keep us informed of your progress - I for one am very interested. Kevm I don't know what would be worse, the wrong bolt or no bolt, mind you if it's not as corroded as mine was I'd take the wrong bolt any day !! When you say viscous coupled fan, do you mean using the metal part as part of the puller? The puller is strong as is if you're using a damper like we did. Assuming yours isn't as corroded as mine you should be ok...... Hehe should be. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 After Trev undoing the water pump bolts a little at a time, then a skoosh of with plus gas, over a week of slowly undoing them and skoosh img them. The three main pain blots on the nose of the pump finally gave way. We had no choice but to be patient. All the rest can undone no probs with care. All the case bolts came off no problem..... Tensioner looks a bit worn?? Right need to go look after my wee boy as he's had an Operation today.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Interesting. I have been using Plus gas for years, but more because it SOMETIMES acts as a beneficial very thin lubricant AFTER the nut has started to move. I have lost faith in it's ability to penetrate anything tight enough to be worthy of special attention. In the last 24 months I've found Penol, and used it with optimism but the same lack of conviction. I'm only a hobby 'engineer' and my recent involvement has dropped off markedly, so I am unable to recount good experiences, I'm heartened to read your positive assessment. 'Copper grease' (my tin may not have that exact phrase on it) I use merely because it's there. Read the contents, see how much copper is involved, and you begin to see why sometimes copper is spelt copa. Do you have a source (trade name) of grease with a meaningful amount of copper in it? Regards. Both products were bought/used by the pallet load, other products tried but in anecdotal user views they were inferior so reverted. Penol, as with all products there is a limit to their effectiveness. Copper Grease was used on nearly every nut and bolt, and proved its worth on shutdowns, especially on heaters/boilers and hot pumps/turbines. I’m not in the industry now so no access to cosh/msd for copper levels so can’t help you. I think ‘copper’ is more a reference to colour than content! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Tensioner looks a bit worn as there appears to be a slight grease leak around the seal. You'll be able to tell more when you remove it and check for noise/play. It's a good idea to use a thin layer of rtv on both the timing cover and water pump gaskets. Clean the water pump bolts and coat them with grease to prevent problems in the future. As for my wee boy - in my profile pic, but he weighs 6-stone and eats more than me :) Les 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Tensioner looks a bit worn as there appears to be a slight grease leak around the seal. You'll be able to tell more when you remove it and check for noise/play. It's a good idea to use a thin layer of rtv on both the timing cover and water pump gaskets. Clean the water pump bolts and coat them with grease to prevent problems in the future. As for my wee boy - in my profile pic, but he weighs 6-stone and eats more than me :) Les Les you've read our minds, RTV ready to go on, cleaned off the gunk from the gaskets (being very careful of the water pump so as not to scratch it) everything is getting a really good clean and greased before going back on. Your "boy" looks a beauty. Right, I'm Defo away this time. Saturday should be the finish of it. (Hopefully) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 DC. No I meant the engine fan/radiator fan, is yours a viscous type with the aluminium fins on the inside or is it a one piece plastic one like mine, I want to change mine for a viscous one and maybe free up a couple of horsepower when you only have 67 to start with you need them all pulling. Good pics. are you going to change the inner crankshaft seal the one behind the cambelt drive pulley as there looks to be a bit of oilyness there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Grease on gaskets..... Rtv is for use instead of gaskets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 Mines is the usual plastic multi fin fan with viscous centre, I'm not too fussed about getting every bit of power from it as it'll be used for leisurely drives and camping trips etc. just to be enjoyed when I'm out in it. :-) we're a tad apprehensive about doing the crank seal, when cleaned up it actually looks in pretty good nick. And I need to bare in mind it's sitting on Trev's driveway, this weekend will be the third weekend it's sat there....... It's still undecided at the mo. We're going belt and braces on it Vulcan, gaskets on, slight smear of RTV round the casing and bolt up tight. (Proper Nm on it obvs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 i did the smear of RTV too. Although grease is probably the real way to do it. in fact i think i use RTV on most joints now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephencdavies Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 before you take the belt off you might want to use a paint pen and put markings on all the pulleys. i put about 3 on each so when i changed the belt i could see any movement. ( i did have a timing pin in too as well as a pump pin, just belt and braces ) the cheats way would be to cut the belt in two, remove the front part with the rear part keeping the timing. slide the new belt on and then remove the rear part that was left. cheeky way of doing it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Grease on gaskets..... Rtv is for use instead of gaskets. Always grease on gaskets, that way you don't spend hours scraping stuff off. I've found copper grease on bolt shanks and thread sealant works fine 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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