All Activity

Video of the outing:

I need a nice little warning device for my dash and recently bought this for £1.54 delivered. I assumed for that price it would be tiny and not too loud. Looks ok.. But it’s neither of those. 😳

Only if it works well

That is more the solution I am looking for! Thanks for the help I now use a 4 position double pole switch but it is limited to 3 possibilities (off-off, on-off, off-on), the on-on is not possible just like that

P.s. I think this means I can blame you for it?

Well, is how I would describe it. Had it in there about a week now.

Will be interesting to see how it performs

I did the same with my shed - the long sides have a 4o (nominally*) slope, which is the minimum for the steel roofing, and the joists are screwed directly onto the frames, which made assembly fairly straightforward. * It's actually finished up more like 5o due to the base not being perfect even after my work to level up the footing brickwork. And there's a slight curve to the top of one of the frames - when I did the second one I clamped another piece of 2x4" in the other orientation to the top and bottom to keep them straighter. The bulge in the roof is visible and makes the edge flashing slightly untidy, but it's not enough to cause any practical issues. It'll just bug me for the rest of my life 🤨

So I ended up with this stuff which for low mileage I assume is close enough. and needed to get an obscure large size spanner for the plug.

The entire brake hydraulic system has been renewed for like items ( Defender) with only the brake booster coming from a Disco 1. I have had success with the Disco 1 booster on the series hybrid which has Defender axles/ brake components therefore the attempt to use the same booster on the Defender. At this point I cannot say that it does not work because it appears more than likely that it is defective rather than not being up to the task. Also LR later in the life of the Defender did change from the single diaphragm booster to the dual diaphragm, so knowing that I will want to "upgrade" to the later booster.

Brilliant will get him to have a look I said 10AS as it’s a td5 thought might be same ad defender thanks 😊

How timely is that, mine's just parted company with the stick, I'm off to buy some epoxy 😊

I’m not surprised you had to pump the pedal (noun - peddle is a verb 😉) using a Discovery master and 110 callipers - the 110 callipers are significantly larger than 90/RR/D1, as are the discs. Matching the hydraulic components is critical to safety.

It still needs the link from 4 to 2, to get power from 5 to 1 for the manual operation in the bottom position. 😉

Awesome 👏🏻 like the 5° idea.

Here's another alternative :- https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switch-wafers/2832539 No diodes required but a tiny amount of extra wiring. Input 1 to terminal A Output 1 to terminals 2 and 4 (joined) Input 2 to terminal B Output 2 to terminals 7 and 8 (joined) No stock at RS, but apparently available from Distrelec in Holland.

This has been my experience too, just not on a bike.

I'm a biker. If it rains I get wet. I'm essentially waterproof, so no problem.

Does it still need the link from 2-4 as well or ditch that and just have the thermostat feed on 4?

Do the switches have to be isolated, or can they be common at one side? And is it just low current inputs to an ECU? If it's something like A Open B Open A Ground B Open A Open B Ground A Ground B Ground Then you might be able to find a BCD switch and just use the lowest 2 bits. Something like https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pushwheel-switches/0334123 would work. It would just repeat 0-3, 4-7, 8-9. There used to be wafer switch kits for building rotaries in any combo that was wanted, but I've not seen them for years. If you like the pushwheel, I could probably find one or two for you to play with.

So after the slab had set it was time to remove the shuttering. I could then start building the walls! I laid down 4 pieces of wood on the perimeter of the slab, my drawing dimensions still tying up and I could use these to start framing each wall. I started with the door frame and tried to adopt the measure three times cut once mantra! I'm using 2x2 for all the wall framing. I had some freebie 2x4's from work to make a strong door frame to hang the door off. Then used that frame as a template for the other end. I also had my helper spectating. It was then onto the long walls, I chose to angle the top batten by 5 degrees as that would be the pitch of my roof and would require no fiddly notching. I then cross braced them (and made them square) in readiness for a trial fit and to spot drill the concrete slab in preparation for drilling holes for concrete screws. It all fitted together perfectly - all my measuring paid off! I then removed all the walls and started cladding, leaving the bottom 3 row off so that I can get the drill in there to screw the walls down and to staple the DPM up against the walls. And end of play today, a good chunk of the cladding completed. I still need to cut the angled pieces and cut all the pieces on the door side. The door will be made and clad last. Some or most of those jobs can be done when the walls are up. My plan is to get the walls up tomorrow and have the roof on and felted by end of play Sunday. As that's when I'm back to work and the rain starts! I'll have to cover up the door and the window if it does rain! Steve

Unfortunately purchasing a new item but it doesn’t work shortly after happens to most of us, but two of the same item something is iffy. Britpart’s are only a part supplier they don’t manufacture, also they can give you the option LR genuine parts, OEM, and patten which its the cheapest but they do give a warranty on what they sell. If you replacing a part and don’t want to go there again choose genuine or at least a branded OEM part.

Hi all and Todd thats nice work there my friend . Let me ask you a question about your set up. i tried this set up on my D1 with defender 110 front calipers and disco 1 master cylinder with D1 rear calipers. The brakes worked very well except I felt like I was driving a series where you had to pump the brake peddle twice to get a good peddle . what I found out was the D1 master cylinder did not have enough fluid column being pushed to the calipers. the brake peddle would bottom out and it took a second pump to get a good hard peddle that would stop the truck . what I found out was the D1 master cylinder could not push enough fluid to get the brakes to work properly. I replaced the master cylinder with a TRW defender master cylinder they worked very well even when in low range off roading . i used to have to put the trucks tranny into neutral in order to get the truck to stop . The truck would just push through any amount of brake peddle I could push.and have the engine power push the truck forward if it was I drive . the proper defender master cylinder was able to push enough fluid to all the calipers to stop the truck off-roading . the bigger master has a much bigger reservoir and pushes the proper amount of fluid thus helping with stoping the truck. on my last series I used Toyota FJ 40 axles with front disc and rear drum brakes. the master was a GM K series 1ton version. I only did two things to get it to work perfect 1. I had to oval the mounting holes on the master cylinder 2. I had to lengthen the push rod out further so it had the 1/16 inch clearance between the push rod and the back of the master cylinder piston. other than that they worked very well. on another note you would not know where I can find the spacers and rubbers that go between the two halves of the front caliper . I have a few calipers for my classic I need to rebuild and need there spacers.The spacer and a rubber to allow the fluid to flow from one half to the other half of each caliper ? Tony

Quite.... I can think of many....