Peaklander

I haven't looked for these last 10 days since the short high speed 😀 run the other weekend. I will get chance over the next few days and post them up on here. The nut isn't at the end of the shaft though and it isn't as wide as the bearing, so there is room but what you have done is much better - 'future-proof'.

That does look good. The offset feed is a good idea, although I measured 3mm clearance between the rear of the shaft (the nut is forward of this) and the face of the case where your port has been added, so I'd imagine that's enough oil space. 'Belt and braces' is good though. Have you got the hub / rear bearing assy pressed back into the case yet? That is the last bit before the re-assembly.

I’m sure he doesn’t. I should have put a winking emoji with my text. 😉

You could go to the ‘Designer Outlet’ called Bicester Village. You don’t need to buy much to empty your wallet, so be careful.

I'm glad that you are about to continue the re-assembly and congratulations on getting the input shaft in without any hassle. I really don't know that I can advise about the hole. It is odd that it's only 7mm yet the matching hole on the TBox is bigger. Ray Wood made it clear that this additional oilway is needed, so it must work but I don't know how. There again I don't know how the TBox oil splashes about. If a lot flows through then maybe as you say, the OD fills-up more and more before reaching a point where it would act as a weir back into the TBox? As for the external pump idea - I await further news from you and @FridgeFreezer and will shamelessly copy any good idea. By then though we will have completed the next trip Itay - Greece - North Macedonia - Bulgaria - Romania, in May / June. Hoping for nice warm / hot weather and an unstressed OD. I haven't looked yet at my temperature monitor stickers following a trip to Sleaford. I did stay in OD for most of the A1 part of the trip but that was only 30 mins or so, so hardly a big test! Good luck with the final push - the synchro sliders are a fiddle but it sounds as though you will breeze through it.

Veering OT, there was recently a video doing the rounds on my feeds showing a gullwing car (McLaren?) driving along unintentionally with a door open. Then it tried to pass a bus.

I think those 50mm ones were 9Kg each when clean.

I recently bought a new pair of 50mm boards for about £50. When I saw the delivery guy trying to carry them towards me, I had a moment. They are way to heavy to carry as I had planned, on the roof rack of an Alucab lifting roof. Fortunately I sold them the same day for the delivered price, to a guy wanting something for some boggy ground near his 'shed'. Time to think again of a lighter solution or a different place on which to mount them.

Whatever you try, please come back and write the feedback here, successful or not.

I broke a Draper 1/2" bar and sent it to them after speaking on the phone (not the retailer) and they replaced it.

Superb @PaulMc. They are totally unforgiving, so if you mess one up, the only way, is to cut it off and start again. Of course if you have already successfully crimped one of the other cores going into the same connector, you may now have cores of unequal length. Just saying.

I had to ask Paul for help. They are horrible little things to deal with - especially as I did it in early December when the garage was about 1C all day. I'll dig out my notes and put them on here - I might need to tidy them up a bit and I'll do it as soon as I can.

#14 yes. Here...https://yrmit.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-series-front-footwell-floor-plate-fixing-kit/

That could just be a poor connection that has developed on a high current cable joint, so at the battery or on the starter motor.

One of the ends on mine suddenly started leaking on a long drive to the Plymouth ferry last year. By the time we got to the next rest halt and realised what was happening, the engine was getting a good spray. Someone on here, @cackshifter I think, suggested reinforcing the ends with heat-shrink, which reminds me...

It could also be the headlamp relay not contacting properly. I've had this recently. Lost dipped lamps suddenly at 50mph in the very very dark and had to flick beam on quickly. It's a bit disconcerting. They came back several miles later and then failed next morning at 6am before I'd had time to look. I cleaned the relay contacts and all has been good. Here's a diagram that I posted recently on another thread.

Slightly OT but a friend with a 2012 90 Puma diesel CSW has complained about being charged in the new 'clean air zone' in Sheffield, whereas my 1996 110 300TDi CSW isn't. His vehicle is in LGV class and mine is PLG. It seems that the later built CSWs were classed as LGV (light goods vehicle) to keep the annual road tax much lower than it would otherwise have been. So I politely pointed this out to him.

This diagram might help. It's a simplified circuit to help me with any dipped beam fault finding. I have removed the dim / dip relay and you can see in my diagram that it is replaced with a piece of wire across the relay base that provided a short between the blue/red cables. 1996 300TDi

Not quite the help you are asking for but when we were last in France (2019) these ‘zones’ weren’t live all the time. I think they are switched on under certain weather conditions when particulate levels are high. So whether or not it’s an issue might also depend on when you are travelling.

I saw one on Monday, towing a livestock trailer back from Bakewell market. Most though are solo and clean.

There is an earth point on the transfer box too. This affected my gauges in the same way. Look back and up on the righthand side (driver’s in UK) and you should see it.

I have a Ctek 5.0 which developed the button issue and I couldn’t get it to click round the settings. It was a few weeks away from five years old, the guarantee limit. The seller (on eBay) promised to replace if Ctek authorised and that’s what happened. So whilst under the guarantee, I’d periodically check that the button works!

I have seen that press - they made the bonnets for the Honda Concerto amongst other things and also panels for Roll Royce. I might have mentioned this somewhere else on here before but I went to work at a company and needed to give a speech at the long service awards dinner. A recipient was up for his 40 year award. I was only 36 years old and it was very humbling.

I worked at Honda Swindon for a few years, in the engine plant. We melted aluminium ingots at one end, cast the block, gearbox cases (high pressure) and head (low pressure with sand moulds), machined it all, (hobbed the gears in later years) and then assembled and test fired every engine. This was across two production lines in one single level building. It was about 100m x 100m that's all. The most amazing place you would ever see; a proper modern precision factory. It's so sad that a change in strategy caused Honda Corp to close it.

This is an excellent thread. Thank you for posting. Your Balkans route is v v similar to ours in 2015 in our 110 but we were camping on the ground in those days so a little more limited. I can see us moving to a setup just like this in the no to distant future. I will file this thread under extremely useful information.