cackshifter

110: Complete the new rear floor and a bit of a repair to the rear o/s corner (been doing it for about 6 years now). Repair doors while there is still something to repair. Oh and new gearbox. I hope the engine will start, if so timing belt change. 90: New timing belt, make the inside light work, make the rear wiper work.

I think reducing fuel can limit any turbo's max boost, it can only work with the exhaust energy it has. But it is just one of the limitations. We know that the normal turbo nears its limit at a bit over 1 bar, clearly the VNTs are bigger and can go higher than that. But their advantage over the normal is ability to provide better boost over a wider range of speed; I think mine achieves that. I think you could achieve the same peak power with a wastegate turbo -the VNT is trying to increase the area under the power graph

In a word yes, it feels like you have a larger engine ( I have got used to it now) . It pulls really well. Solo it really wouldn't make that much difference I guess but pulling a trailer with a couple of horses, it helps a lot, it makes the engine more flexible . The fuelling had already been messed with when I got the vehicle, just boost pin and star wheel and it used to smoke a bit. All that smoke went - admittedly the original turbo was on the way out. But I didn't really have a standard start point. Starting on a hill with the trailer is much easier. I fitted a full width intercooler and 4-core rad at the same time, but I don't think that would make much difference at low speeds.

Well to just put the other side, I have run one of the TurboTechnics ones on a 300tdi for the last 6 years - it has been fine.

Before going into the technical long grass, is everything else OK - inlet not blocking or delaminating, exhaust free?

When you start there is a puff of smoke as the auto enrichment kicks in. Could that be depositing soot, enough for a momentary stick, then once it clears it's gone. (Straw grasping I know)

How on earth did you know?

If the bore is cracked I think I'd be hunting for another block, liners or not. But I'd ask Turners' or maybe Ward's advice, they know the engines well.

There are several other videos about too, all showing the same thing basically - set the pump timing using a dial gauge and lock it off. Introduce the pump, set the engine timing and lock it off with timing pin. Then do up the pulley nut. Then make sure to unlock the pump and the engine.

You can obviously just replace it. There are rebuild kits but because you can't balance them without a special machine, replacing the cartridge ie all the rotating parts is a more sensible possibility if you can get it apart, and that is normally the cheapest option. (Brittanica Restorations has a video about it)Turbos and cartridges are available as standard or 'hybrid' the latter being a tweaked version. Or there are replacement VNT turbos available. Depends on your wishes and budget of course.

.. and some definitely have a drink problem

Zeus used to make the spacers for conversions, or Bigg Red might be worth a try?

You have my sympathies too, horrendous task

Well in fairness I guess, the ARP studs and the Kent cam are things I haven't heard of for *tdis, or seen in their respective catalogues. And it is good to see someone do the basics. I think the finish will certainly spontaneously crinkle if it is ragged.

Actually the power boost secret is the orange valve cover; the rest is just cosmetic.

I was thinking of impacts and road dirt and corrosion rather than electrical.

I'd be wary of putting it on the front bumper - convenient , yes but maybe also a tad vulnerable? How about the side of the battery box?

Someone else on here was recommending Enduroline stop start, can't find the link, but Varta have done me very well

Not Terrain Tech but I have had new chassis on both my Defenders done by Paul Marsden at Marsden Auto Developments. No problems, very happy. And they are literally across the yard from Richards. But last time there was a fair wait for them to do it. (I'd have been worried I suppose if there hadn't been). Paul was @marsieon here, not sure whether he still follows these forums.

They do seem to be offering it with the locker

I'd also check that all the earths and battery connections are all fine; on that age of vehicle the voltage might dip sometimes which might be enough to annoy the electronics. Check the battery is the correct type and the alternator is giving 14+ volts when the engine is above idle too.

The screws are minute, a small jewellers screwdriver might do it, but the wire tool worked well. Screws are crosshead but a good fit of a single blade moved mine. Using the wire meant it could bend s bit to wiggle in, I used a small mirror on a stick to see the front screw. Seems impossible at first, but take your time and don't drop the screw! Loosen just a bit the one you can see first. There is a spacer thing which might be stuck on the end of the barrel. And remember which way round it goes, don't put it on 180 out!

I have changed the switch without removing the barrel on a '97 one; the switch is held in place with 2 tiny screws. I made a tool from a piece of welding wire (hammered one end into a blade and bent the other like an allen key)which let me get at them - the front screw you have to do by feel pretty much. But access on the later models may be rather limited by comparison. It does save you having to get the barrel out which could be a PITA.

Well if you are hitting 1.3 bar not much wrong with that!

The smokiness and high EGT suggests you are a bit short of air for burning. Do you know if you are getting full boost - I know you said it's a hybrid turbo.