cackshifter

They seem to offer the Budweg as well as Bremtech in the online shop, but who knows? They reckon Bremtech are European. The discs have been fine too, I already had bought Brembo pads so I didn't use pads from there.

I must admit I went with the Budweg; other MR2 owners had had them and said they were Ok, and they do seem fine. The one thing I did do was to paint before fitting, they were just a zinc plate finish, and I hate them going to a crusty rusty mess. But I bought AP ones a while back for my 90 and I had to do that with them.

There are some reviews - how reliable they are of course is another matter....

Anybody got experience of Vevor tools? Ok I know they are probably made East of Suez but a lot of things are and are fine. For example I mean pop tester, air jack. I quite fancy the pop tester but I probably won't use it more than a few times

They all seem to be rubbish, even the Lucas ones. The rivets that pass for contacts can become loose, and though there is continuity to the switch movable part, the contact to the cable can sometimes be the issue. I have successfully repaired these (temporarily) with solder, but you have to be fast - don't melt the plastic more. The long term solution is to take the load off the switch with relays (loads on here about that)

Well done, it can be really disheartening when something like that happens, but you pushed through.

I recently bought some calipers and discs from Brakes International for my MR2, they seem fine so far. Well, it passed the MOT, haven't done very many miles.

I think he was trying to be considerate to the scenery

Welcome Belle.

I believe it is possible to fit Puma seats, but the flooring area needs mods for that. As you are rebuilding it might be a good moment. YRM do the parts.

Complete aside and OT and puerile but every time I look at this topic I have a mental image of stoned MOT testers.

Nice to hear a happy ending, thanks for reporting back

How very annoying. As you say, it doesn't happen when selecting 1st from rest (you'd expect the spigot shaft to be turning with the crank with the gearbox in neutral I suppose, ie no relative motion) , that sort of confirms the diagnosis. Not sure if you took it apart what you could do different to what you just did. Maybe a smear of grease? Is it worth going a bit further to see if it settles down?

Why not a 240v contactor to disconnect the others and maybe the starter solenoid when the 240v is on?

Literally up-cycling

Will look superb on the.... err... Lightweight

Commiserations on that. I'd check the turbo is ok too my 90 had that happen and it needed con rod, piston and turbo. When you get to replace the valve caps, I believe Turner's sell the MWM ones which were correctly hardened. It'll still be cheaper to repair than a Toyota.

What @western says, but also beware of getting incorrect ones, eg LHD lamps for UK. Some around where it's not obvious which they are selling.

Good advice^^^^. I had a clutch fail exactly as you describe, hopefully that's 'all' it is.

Is only 6mm not a bit lightweight?

Yokohama A/T G015? (After a quick search, no idea how good they are) Would it be possible to have a slightly different size maybe to get more choice?

Don't beat yourself up for using a lot of assembly lube, that may have minimised damage. But do take your time. I'd advise filling the oil filter as much as reasonably possible before fitting, and initially spin it over for a few seconds with the stop solenoid disconnected. You should see oil pressure build quite quickly. Then you know oil has got round before combustion happens. Though don't run the starter for long periods without a rest in between.

SUs normally just have a supply and maybe an overflow

Curious indeed. Is there any danger of some pictures?

One simple thing to try is to get it warm, ie in a state where it's not keen on starting, and try starting with a wide open throttle (release if it fires). If it starts readily, that points to over-richness, as you are allowing lots of air in to clear excess fuel and counterract too much petrol. If not it points to vapour lock, not enough fuel getting through, in which case it's probably not down to the actual carburettors.