cackshifter

Maybe an airbag going off while you are cuddling a wheel may cause some dental derangement. And maybe rectal

You might also ensure it has plastic fittings inside and in contact as a brass ballcock for example would encourage galvanic corrosion.

You just need some robotic thing to smack the driver round the head when they are running round on DRLs when it is near dark or in daylight fog and they might be almost acceptable

Well I needed one last week on my Mondeo; ran over a screw which ripped they tyre and the local garage didn't have a tyre till the next day. I wouldn't want a car without a spare of some sort. Re spacesavers, they are OK maybe for local use, but years back I was killing time while my Audi was being serviced, and I wandered into the VW section where the salesman was keen I look at a Toureg. So I asked where was the spare and he showed me a spindly spacesaver in a well under the boot floor (bearing in mind it was on very fat tyres) At that time I was regularly doing 200 mile journeys to and from my mother's at weekends, so I asked, OK, "It's Sunday night, throwing it down, I'm returning home with kids asleep and the (Alsatian) dog on the luggage behind, we get a puncture - what then? He said, " Oh put the space saver on",so I said "it's only allowed to do 50 miles, we need 200, and what do you do with a big dirty sopping wet rear wheel with a flat tyre (which won't go in the spacesaver well) - do VW have a rim recovery service, you just tell them where it is and they'll return it to you? Or do you put it on one of the passengers' lap?" He said "good question, hadn't thought of that."

Yes that's right. I suggest check crank endfloat/thrusts too before ordering

Or a GENTLE warm might soften it

The reason they want you to push it is because the rolling radius of the tyre loaded is not the same as the radius is jacked up, as the tyre deflects under load. So they can see exactly the distance you cover for one turn (better done over more turns if possible and averaged). If you do it unloaded your speedo will read too high. Some tyre manufacturers publish rolling radius figures, but it assumes loading. Sorry didn't see above post - hadn't refreshed the screen

There seem to be some coarse teeth next to the ring gear - maybe for a pawl of some kind?

Maybe you could test the coolant of combustion gases with one of those testing kits before assuming the worst? I am wondering if the hoses leak very slightly, I have a set that does, never amounts to a drip but can sometimes see traces of dried anti-freeze. This on a 300tdi with VNT that tows, so not entirely dissimilar ( I do have a 4 core rad though). Oil temps are interesting.

Not done all the chassis but t-wash, Jotun penguard HB or jotamastic 87 AL , then jotun hardtop flexi on top.

TBH it might have just been a weak gasket. 300tdi seem to need a periodic gasket change, they don't seem to last indefinitely, so there is probably no margin for anything not being absolutely bob-on. There is no doubt the boost pin would increase cylinder pressures (otherwise what is its point), but plenty of folk seem to run them without issue. I'd just check the flatness again and if Ok stick a new gasket in.

That is truly annoying. Just wondering if there is a waterpump problem if the water coming out wasn't hot - or maybe a bolt for whatever reason wasn't clamping properly

It was obviously meticulously planned, and at the end of the day it was a family having a funeral, with the obvious emotions and grief. Good job they had left the number plates off the Land Rover though or the DVLA would be trying to do them for VED.

But ideally get one with the 2 pin slider. They don't rattle as much

I know it'll be buffed and fluffed to within an inch of its life but I do hope it's reliable...

It's not hard to change the bearing in the tensioner but it needs to be the 6203-2RSH-C3 . The C3 has a bit more clearance inside. There is a tech archive article on it...link. Note the comment about filing a notch to get the snap ring out.

Turners use Elring on the engines they build.

Hmm, compressor that old I'd be tempted to wind that big plug out of the end and take a peek inside; they can rust through from the inside quite rapidly

Or.. this might be an opportunity. My daughter wrote off our 110 CSW off about 11 years ago, and we bought the remains back from the insurers at about 25% market value. We got it taken to Paul Marsden at Marsden Auto Developments - he rebuilt it on a new galvanised chassis (with some other new bits it needed before the crash - shocks, brake pipes etc). It gave it a new lease of life. I agree with what the others are saying about writing off and there are others about apart from Paul who will rebuild it ( I have no connection with him except as happy customer, he also did our 90). If the chassis is the least bit in doubt either from alignment or corrosion I would look at doing that or similar. Shipping it on a flatbed with someone like FAM won't break the bank. But if you want to keep the vehicle it is definitely within your power to do so.

I used to work in a bus factory - the underside parts were made of galvd steel (not zintec) and then epoxy powder coated. Before the powder coating they were dipped in detergent to degrease, phosphate and then chromate washed (probably can't do that these days) then were dried in an oven and went straight into powder coat. You couldn't move the resultant coating even if you scratched with a coin. Without the pretreatment, even on degreased galv it was easy to get it to lift off. If the colourgalv is similar process it should be tough. Pre treated it looked like it had been T washed, and felt slightly rough so it must have provided a great key. If you want to paint I used epoxy primer and polyurethane top coat, both 2 pack, on a new galved rear crossmember. Even after 8 years the paint was good (the rest of the chassis in front of it wasn't)

That looks very nice, it still folds up? A bit of a bite out of the wheelarch needed?

Might be worth checking the phasing of the propshafts is correct if you haven't already.

I beg you not to go to Liveridge or whatever the new place is. I have had issues with Liveridge including finding out the vehicle I had bought had more than 100k knocked off the speedo, the camshaft timed a tooth out, a door literally falling apart etc etc.

There's the other one

There is another complete one which I can't find just now and ianmayco68 is doing one. I believe there is a group on Facebook dedicated to it.