cackshifter

Well electricity peaked at over £2000/MWhr wholesale yesterday, when we lost one of the 1GW links to the French. Interestingly wind was doing about 1GW then suddenly has gone to 5GW, presumably all have been started up to grab some lucre. Some other (huge) arrangements will be needed if we are to give up coal, petrol, diesel and gas boilers. Sorry, rather OT.

Thanks; Yes I reckon you do have to be quick to wash out. The Hardtop (PU) does seem to stay liquid much longer than its official pot life.

@Bowie69, was that airless spray?

Hi, the paint (all 3 types) is quite thick and Jotun give specs for film thickness. I have always just brushed it on fingers crossed of course, but I think it would roll fine, in fact have bought a small tray and some of the rollers to try, I have some new battery/tool boxes to do. I wondered how good a finish was possible. As Mike suggests you have limited pot life, you have to move quite fast to get it on. And you may have to brush it out to level it after rolling it on. You could thin it, thinners are available, though they don't suggest you do that, but if it was really too thick that is possible. I think there are epoxy mastic primers available in smaller quantities, eg link but some of these kinds of paints are rather expensive. If you do decide to use this kind of paint I would recommend get some small scales and weigh rather than measure quantities, SML Paints do the scales (less than £10) and publish charts of weights to mix rather than volume. 2 pack is a pain to use to be honest, but it seems to give a durable finish.

I always think marine paint is designed for seawater, small nibbly creatures, and application on less than perfect surfaces, so it should feel at home. The downside is the mixing and it is generally in huge tins.

Is it red oil or brownish smelly oil? Red suggests ATF, main box. Smelly is EP90 from the transfer box (assuming correct oils). If it's plastered I expect you will have to clean it up to find the source(s).

I presume if you have an ungalved bit (shock mount) you will accelerate zinc usage on nearby galved surfaces

The primer was Primer, and the topcoat was Topcoat. I also have used Jotamastic 87 very successfully. The biggest issue is mixing small amounts - I now use scales rather than trying to do it by volume, and normally just use an old jar, and spoons to measure the paint out. All have been applied by brush. I still have the crossmember. The topcoat can be applied to metal, I have used spare mixed paint to touch in unseen chipped bits.

I'd be thrilled to do 4000 miles without something breaking or needing fettling of some kind.

Old galvanised doesn't need T-wash. A while back I fitted a new galved rear crossmember to my 90, and before fitting I T-washed it and then it had 2 coats of epoxy primer & 2 coats of polyurethane top coat, both 2 pack. 8 years on, it had to have a new chassis but the crossmember was fine, the paint was still on it. I would fit something like the Gwyn Lewis kits to block mud getting sprayed on the front outriggers, and focus on the outside parts, eg round the radius arms bushings and the rear crossmember where you know it rusts normally before attempting to paint the whole thing.

In consideration of the OP perhaps non-flammable cleaners would be better?🤔

The noseweight thing is a bit of an issue with horse trailers, the horse can and does shift weight.

Or maybe use LEDs rather than using bulbs? And just wire them in?

I would generalise that the smaller the trailer, the harder they are to reverse. The little ones are like a supermarket trolley on LSD. A nice sized 4 wheeled one you can see, it wants to go straight so not so bad. And on farms, rollers are really difficult to reverse.

Excellent news, sounds like you are on the right track Mike

I seem to recall also a much more robust item being available, maybe from South Africa. I can't seem to find a reference to it right now.

You might fit pistons that were slightly taller I guess is the official answer. If you have to skim the block it might be handy too.

The rules used to be that you kept the same part number if the part was interchangeable both new for old and old for new, but if not, you had to use a different part number, otherwise stock control is impossible. So by comparing part numbers you could see if a part had changed, though sometimes they seem to change numbers for the hell of it, and sometimes don't bother when they should so it isn't 100%. But it may give a clue.

Your Kestrel will just think it's had Cleveland Discol in its tank. Won't it need super anyway? Sorry, bit OT.

I always clear out the supplied grease in the new UJ cross and fill with new grease before fitting, so you know it's all fresh, as it can harden with storage, then it only takes one side to not accept grease and you are back to replacing

UJs have to be a prime suspect. Sometimes you have to take the props off to check, or greasing them can sometimes stop it temporarily. I tracked one down once by feeling UJ's after a run - I burnt myself on the faulty one. Or they may show some slack when you rock the vehicle.

Hi I feel for you, I have been in a similar position. Part of the problem is that the rust will have come from the inside as well as the outside. I'm afraid you have to face up to a chassis swap sooner rather than later, as if there is anything more disheartening, it's when you have to do it again. If you have to patch it to buy some time, I would urge you don't patch over rust, but cut out and replace - I know sometimes easier said than done, but just work steadily through it. I think @western faced a similar issue a bit back and managed to get his chassis swap done quite quickly, without a ramp (you would need a bit of room). He has a build thread on here somewhere.

I second that, please give our best wishes

Don't be tempted by 'if some is good,more is better' . I found a pile of rtv shards under the oil strainer, it must have limited the flow somewhat, when I took the sump off mine.

I'm looking forward to Britpart doing Tesla parts. The unstoppable force meets the immovable object...