mike4444244

just buy a contactor, either an albright or a copy eg superwinch Mike

Have a look HERE HTH Mike

Done both so free to lurk!

Be more fun doing it that way anyway!

I think you'd struggle with an 88, you should probably use a superior wheelbase

You should have 4 veins popping up on your head!

in the peak? There one near the station in hope that has a pub called the travellers rest very close, has a good cafe too and leccy if you're taking a caravan. North lees just outside hathersage is great, nice and quiet and theres a footpath to the Little John pub in Hathersage that does fantastic food! Mike

Put simply in a sweeping generalisation! OEM = ok, Pattern = rubbish something like clutch master seals I'd definately pay extra and get OEM!

leaking vac shouldn't make pedal go to the floor, it should make the pedal harder to push. Are you losing fluid? Mike

also before you fit the new pistons and seals make sure the grooves are completely clean, they often get clogged up with gunk which prevents the seal sitting properly. also make sure you put the seals in the right way round, some of them have a slight profile on, the thicker side should be innermost Mike

you cab buy razor blades from most bodywork places, they are superb for getting gaskets or stickers etc off, I also use preparation wheels as they remove gasket really fast but don't touch the metal, Mike

Hi the front shoes (pic 2) are exactly as they were when I got the 109 (no guarantees this is right though) the rear shoes are brand new bought as an axle set, in the box were 4 identical shoes, with no obvious leading or trailing ones Bloody drums I'm off back to my lovely defender with its discs all round.... Mike

Hi Pete appears to have fixed it! 2 of the new adjusters weren't adjusting properly, Ralph are you sure the master cyl is the same as the one on my 200 tdi def is completely different, it has 2 ports for the front and 1 for the rear, the series on just has 2 ports? Thanks for all the help guys Mike

Ok then, heres some pics of the situation! FRONT MASTER REAR Any thoughts?

I may be wrong but aren't the windscreen frames a different size, I think the defender screen is taller Mike

You need to disconnect the brake and clutch lines from the master cylinders and all the wiring Don't worry its a pretty straightforward job, my wife and I did mine in a day Mike

Some good advice there, I think its Mike mmgemini who keeps gaskets etc in his headlining and throttle cable in the gutter! ^^^ That reminds me don't forget the toolkit for the driver! ie a decent first aid kit, and make sure you know how to use it before you go! May I also humbly suggest that you take some sterile consumables/instruments with you in case you can't guarantee the sterility of bits locally, also you may want to consider a HIV post exposure prophylaxis kit... PM me if you want any more info Mike

The best way I have found is to get some friends round then you can remove the wings loosen the roof remove the windscreen frame and lift the bulkhead out complete, it weighs a ton though so be careful, its then much easier to swap all the bits over and refitting is the reverse of removal.... Buy some captive nuts for the hinges and a new foam seal for the heater Mike

Thanks for your help guys, sorry been late replying have spent all night being ill! Errr, ok I'm absolutely certain theres no air in the system, the drums are within spec, pretty sure springs are in correct way round as did one side at a time to make sure but I'd need to check, there are only 2 ports on m/cyl, as above they are marked S and P which we assume is secondary and primary, also exact same problem as before they were swapped, also the shoes are all identical on each axle, ie there doesn't appear to be a leading or trailing shoe, also shoes are adjusted to be on the 'too tight' side just to make sure... I'll whip the drums off this weekend and take some pics Mike

Hi all Having some issues getting brakes bled/adjusted 1984 S3 109, all adjusters replaced, all wheel cylinders replaced with gen/oem, master cyl replaced with genuine, Uncle Les's modified piping to put bleed nipple at top. 2.25" shoes on front. Brakes all adjusted so that wheel is locked then backed off slightly. Bled Pedal now travels to floor then goes nice and firm at top of second stroke, theres no air in the system, it feels like first pump is moving pistons, second is moving shoes, but shoes centralised and adjusted as above. Front ( 'S' big union) port on m/cyl is plumbed straight to rear brakes Rear ( 'P' small union) port goes to T piece then front brakes I did previously have these the other way round before Pete noticed the letters, it had exactly the same problem before and swapping appears to have made no difference... The 109 has been stood on someones farm not moving for ages before I bought it but theres plenty of material on the shoes (new on back) and the drums were cleaned up during the overhaul... So... What the french connection UK is going on? is it anything to do with the PDWA thing I threw in the bin? Mike

Apparently the nice chaps at Richards will do you a x member if you ask nicely, I was there last week collecting my chassis and they look superbly made Mike

Hi Putting my 110 back on standard height suspension, any recommendations for shocks? Its got a galv chassis, heavy husky and bumper and spends most of its time heavily loaded consequently its flipping heavy and has no ARB, It will have LR OEM HD springs all round so would like a good shock to work with these. Main use is overlanding/laning/ with the odd play and break too... It will be a frosty day in hell before I can afford old man emu, much as I'd like them! Mike

Only 4mm? thats spot on by LR standards...

As a biker could I please ask that you don't cover your chassis and then the road in oil! hammerite do a underseal with waxoyl in that seems good, its quite cheap from halfrauds... Mike

Go to costco, I bought a huge 3 ton low profile high lift for about £60 ish and its seen some abuse! Mike