mike4444244

surely theres a forum member near you who could weld it up for you in return for some beer tokens?

are you sure you want it on its side? they have a habit of leaking! just copy whats in the comics Mike

for the latest one I used an engine crane sticking through the back door attached to 2 tie down points in the rear, and petes winch over a beam to a strop hooked into the bulkhead bottoms with a spreader bar on the top to stop it squashing the bulkhead, clear as mud? the first time I did it I used an overhead beam and a chain block and lifted it using the roof rack! Mike

probably but it will be overpriced, just get a stock of shortish (30-40mm) M8, long (100-110mm) M8 and M10 for things that bolt to the chassis, suspension bolts and bulkhead bolts are easiest ordered from a landy parts place as they are weird sizes, that should be all you need for swapping the chassis, Mike

Hi Having done 2 now I would echo the above, I would also add that its easier to run brake lines, wiring, fuel lines etc on the new chassis BEFORE you fit it, also if you need the vehicle working quickly then stay focused on the chassis swap and DON'T get distracted doing unnecessary work while its easy to get access etc, unless you have time to spare then obviously it makes sense. Are you taking the body off insections or 1 piece, I have always used the lift in 1 piece option... On a final note you MUST inform the DVLA of the chassis swap, they will want proof of purchase (receipt from marslands) and ideally proof of destruction of the old one, they may send you a new logbook or ask to inspect but its nothing to worry about, you don't need an IVA or anything just a quick check to make sure everythings kosher, then its all done nice and legally and theres no chance of future repercussions. I have just booked my VIC after my swap a few weeks ago and confirmed with the vehicle inspector that DVLA must be informed. Mike edit just found it here linky on the list of compulsory notifications "replacing or modifying the chassis/monocoque bodyshell"

Hi Give Richard's a ring, it may cost a bit more but it will fit straight on and last longer than the original! Mike

cheap and cheerful way is to cut the rot out and weld in new plate (if you have facilities) or rivet a repair plate over. the door skins are ally over a rusty steel frame to to halt this properly you need to isolate the two metals, some people use silicone sealer with reasonable results, or replace the door skin if the frames are ok. If you do a search you'll find most things have been covered and theres a goldmine of info in the tech archive Welcome to the forum BTW Mike

Wot they said, everything from the seatbox forward will fit ok but nothing else, a new galv chassis is a valuable thing so either sell it or buy a 110 with a dead chassis and swap it Mike

I use a copy of garmin mobile on my n95, it works like a tom tom but obviously isn't quite as good as a dedicated sat nav Mike

yes they are different, they are a few feet longer! Mine came from ebay and are galved ones from an earlier 110 Mike

also check the column UJs as they may be binding, you could remove the shroud and see if that cures it, it may have just vibrated loose Mike

you might be able to send it back as its not fit for purpose

Yes I have, its possibly the biggest piece of cr@p in the already rubbish clarke power tool range, Its probably of some use as a paperweight or a source of recyclable plastic! Avoid! Just my humble 2p worth Mike

Tape measure and scrapyard is the slightly more time consuming way to do it, but will only cost you £15 Mike

Theres a few excellent write ups on onboard air in the tech archive Mike

Wot he said, save yourself a fiver and just use duct tape or insulation tape to mask the upside down trapezium shape bit... don't forget you need to have a fire extinguisher and hi vis vest, they make a fortune on the ferry selling them way over RRP Mike

If the fluids been in there for more than a couple of years then its worth changing it anyway while you're at it! Mike

yes they are, I have consistently found motorsportworld.co.uk to be the cheapest for performance parts (certainly for mercs), no connection just a happy repeat customer Mike

You are left with welding i'm afraid, either that or drilling out the plug, but then you'd probably get swarf in the box... Mike

I bought the cheapo rear door from paddocks and its surprisingly good quality, the paints a bit haphazard but I was repainting anyway, everything fitted and given a good waxoyling it should last a good few years, echo the above about not hanging a wheel on it though! Mike edit: theres no need to spend fortunes on 'special kits' of bolts, just buy the correct size from any fastner shop, did all my doors for less than a fiver...

The gooved and drilled discs do work but they are designed for racing really rather than road, they stop pads glazing by 'scraping' them a bit, and consequently eat pads, but thats not an issue in race situations, they are possibly made redundant by fitting sintered pads, all bikes have them as standard although that might be bling as well Mike edit: as above do you need that hydro boost thing, never ever had a problem braking my 110 even heavily loaded + trailer

Hi Monroe or procomp are cheap and ok in my experience, having said that, it isn't much more expensive to get decarbon etc instead. Mike

Thanks Tony!

Hi I can't get my microcat working but I need a picture if there is one available of the dumbirons/ front jacking points on a 110 chassis, the reason being is I need to email the Dept for Transport technical department with a picture of the bit I want to chop off so they can say "of course you can chop that little bit off without having an IVA test Mr Hughes!" or not Thanks Mike

Hi I will be up for either date as long as I have my MOT by then, have done loads of lanes in the area but its been a while since I had a working car Can I put a vote in for the wayfarer and the corwen car wash please Mike