mike4444244

Erm, it depends if its bolt on or weld on, strictly speaking if you weld mounts on it counts as a chassis mod which triggers a test, however if you ask your friendly local vosa man they usually ignore it as you're not trying to do anything illegal etc, I have cut my front dumb irons off to allow proper nuts to be used on the bumper bolts, all I did was email the technical desk at DfT and they said as its not radically altering the chassis it was fine... TBH if you're worried just ask the relevant agency (and get a letter as proof) they are usually very helpfull... Mike

I had to get a new card as well, after buying from paddocks, in my case it was someone trying to top up their mobile! Bank spotted it immediately and secured my account, wish they'd let me know before I made an embarrassing trip to the cashpoint Mike

I can recommend a meck lock, its not electronic but it definately immobilises! Stopped mine getting nicked, the little darlings decided just to trash it instead Mike

I know its not ideal but I found I had to be a named driver on an old banger for a few years before I got a landy, I was getting TPFT quotes of 5k+ for a 1993 200TDi!!! Just insured with lancaster for £328 FC I'd consider a low value S3 on a limited mileage policy if you are desperate for a LR good luck Mike

for normal driving around I just carry an AA card, I have relay so I can be recovered anywhere I like, If going to a play site I take similar to the above, and the AA card... Mike

my V5 doesn't have any weight given, but the plate says 3050kg, its a 2 seater 110 hardtop so does it need 4 or 7 MOT? I'm not bothered about taking it for a class 7 as theres plenty of places around I just don't want a wasted trip! Mike

Hi If you do a search using the button above you'll find this has been covered in lots of detail before and theres lots of info to help you DIY, there are kits available but most seem to be vastly overpriced when you price up the fittings and tube yourself Welcome to the forum! Mike

FWIW in my opinion black looks much better, but they have to be satin not gloss or matt [/Chav mode] Mike

I'd be interested in some forum tat quality merchandise, prob at least a rugby shirt! Another vote for black though from me... Mike

Depending on how much its insured for, a new chassis is around £1400 add in labour to swap it and they may want to write it off, Sureterm tried to write mine off when a door lock and steering lock got broken during a failed theft attempt, I seem to remember they quoted £800 for a new door then another few hundred to colour match it I would certainly advise talking to a grown up about your legal rights first and not taking any poo off the insurance company however persistant they are! Hope you get it all sorted out and are back on the road soon Mike

May help if you run the engine up to temp first then try them, or put some diesel/wd40 etc on them for a bit, be careful forcing them though I had one come out minus the heating element bit once - meant the head had to come off Mike

every days a school day!

I didn't know that... I was only going from personal experience when I have used that same strap for recovering/towing (not offroad) for years countless times, inc towing quite large cars like defenders etc and never had a problem with it, I use a pole now and obviously have a decent nylon rope for off road Just out of interest I thought the safety rating went the other way, ie if it said 5000 it would have been tested to 2.5x that? Mike

If concerned about leaks into the bellhousing/timing chest being hidden by breather pipe theres no reason why you can't use transparent pipe, then a visaul check will tell you what flavour fluid has decided to pour out this time!

For your intended usage why not get a tow strap from machine mart, rolled up it takes up little space and its more than up to the job of occasional recovery of euroboxes, only cheap too Clicky Mike

Might not be the only problem going on, but I would agree with the turbo oil seals... Mike

erm in a nutshell, assuming your 90 has a plated weight of 2t you can tow 1.5t to make 3.5t with the tow car heavier than the trailer... in practice not much! I'm in the same boat as you but I drive a 110 (3t therefore can only tow 750kg) I'm afraid the only way round it is to sit a test Mike

Erm if you fit a brand new chassis from a supplier eg richards/marslands etc, have proof of purchase, and PROOF OF DESTRUCTION of the old chassis, and change pretty much nothing else ie engine etc then yes in the eyes of the DVLA (VOSA not involved unless it needs a VIC) it is a straight swap, quick 5min inspection at your local office and you're good to go Mike

Without wanting to urinate on your chips or teach granny etc... but have you driven LRs before? if you do lots of motorway miles and this is just a stop gap car until your mini is finished then maybe something like a diesel eurobox would be significantly more suitable? Unless you want the defender because/despite all its little 'character building' features, in which case I would recommend a TDi and Welcome aboard! Just my 2p Mike

Hi All of the above is dealt with by the local office, be warned though the time between sending the letter and getting the appointment back was about 6-8 weeks, once thats done the rest is dead quick! in fact, with hindsight its probably a better idea to take all your docs to the local office in person it might make it faster Mike

Having just done exactly this... I followed the instructions to the letter and it was a very simple quick and easy process You need to send your logbook, photocopy of receipt for the new chassis, and a covering letter explaining you have carried out a direct swap with a new chassis In my case (and I believe they are doing this for more people now) I was invited to bring the vehicle to the local office for inspection, I turned up and a very nice man (who knew landys inside out) spent 5 mins checking the numbers matched (Richards put my old number on the new chassis) quick chat and 2 forms later I was done, total 10mins and I got an identical logbook sent to me in the post. NB this is NOT a VIC check like I thought at the time! All done with minimum fuss and all nice and legal There seems to have developed an attitude of 'SVA Police' and 'Anti-SVA-police' on the forum lately... My 2p worth, You're obliged by law to inform the dvla, whether you do or not is up to you, I'm certainly not going to interfere! Mike

My 110 200TDi averages around 32mpg on the motorway with roofrack MTs and a full load, about 25 round town... my day to day car (318) occasionally makes it to 29mpg on a long motorway run Mike

Costco every time.... have used most brands/shops, and would recommend the costco one best, I have had bad experiences in the past with clarke products from machine mart, they seem fine as long as they have no moving parts Mike

Err depends... if you have polybushes fitted then changing them is dead easy, rubber ones can put up a hell of a fight if they are inclined and you're unlikely to take them alive! with the vehicle on the floor loosen but dont undo completely the A frame ball joint nut, the trailing arm - axle nuts, spring retainers, shock nuts, remove the rear prop, disconnect the rear brake flexi. Chock the front wheels both sides to stop any movement. Jack the back end up (i use an engine crane on the tow pack) til its nice and high then axle stands under the chassis. leave the wheels on and you can undo the nuts and roll it out backwards... Refitting is the reverse of removal... obviously if you're replacing bits you may need to modify the above, and make sure its SAFE before you go climbing underneath it, they can get a bit precarious on stands... Finally, dont fully tighten the suspension nuts/bolts up until the car is back on the ground with its weight on the suspension Mike

dont want to teach granny etc but make sure you pull the +ve lead off the battery first, it becomes a bit of a liability when its disconnected from the solenoid and is dangling around... ask me how I know Mike