mike4444244

if it all goes nicely, you can do it in half an hour easily with the facilities you have, if it doesnt it can take a great deal longer... Mike

yup, twice, not a problem but defo leave doors on and SHUT, its less likely to flop out of shape then, just make sure you can lift it safely and with plenty of control Mike

mine did similar, was the a frame balljoint in the end... something else for you to check... just get underneath it and give everything a good wiggle / check Mike

asier with the downpipe off, just bleed it same as the brakes... I have a puller but I doubt its up to it... Mine came off only with a (H&S non-approved ) arrangement of 3 crowbars on 3 bottle jacks and a big hammer... Mike

So am I! (at weekends) Give me a shout if you get stuck.... Mike

As above, mine has 265/75/16 fitted no probs, they are almost exactly the same diameter as 7.50 16, when funds allow i'll be going up to 255/85 16 though... Mike

The easiest, cheapest and some say the best set up would be to return it to genuine springs and OEM shocks, if you are intending to load it heavily, then use the LR HD springs and consider a gas shock, theres no need for a lift at all, it will only make it more wallowy as you are raising the centre of gravity, put the standard bits back on and ebay the lift kit, someone will buy it My 110 is built with expeditions in mind, I use standard HD springs and decarbon shocks, I have a husky and 'HfH' weight bumper, and a galv chassis... Just my 2p worth Mike

Check the switch and also the linkage isn't fouling on the sound insulation, like it was on mine! Also make sure you are actually engaging diff lock (jack a wheel up, if its locked you will be able to drive off the jack) Mike

Your ebay invoice might be sufficient, have you visited your local office? I just had an inspection and the man was very knowledgable about defenders and very nice to deal with, Talk to the office before you do anything else! Mike

Just to put this to bed, I did the above and changed the seal For future reference the seal is this one Its about the size of a £2 coin, which is what it cost me! Thanks for the tips Mike

Did he take the tapered flange off? its unlikely to have moved, I just changed my drive seal and it took my biggest puller and me and Pete battering it with a big hammer to shift it! Mike edit sorry just re read the above, I take it he has the pulley loose attached to its flange? If so I think its as Ralph said, a trip to the bosch agent...

As above, but also drop into your local office and speak to your local vehicle inspector, ask if you can have an age related plate etc BEFORE you start chopping, it might (would) be easier to go and buy a 130 V8 (ex mil) and sell the 110? Mike

I had my bike insured with them but they couldn't get within £1400 of my lowest quote for the BMW! I have had horrendous experiences with sureterm, like trying to write off my defender over a new drivers door handle and a new door skin! Mike

Thanks Les, I think I'll have a crack at the seal and then get the pump reconned properly when I can afford it! Mike

Anyone got a part number for the seal, and/or the pump? I'm 30 miles from my unit at the mo... Mike

Thanks guys, for £4 I cant really lose considering its buggered anyway! Mike

Hi 1993 Defender 200TDi Went to change my cambelt today (thank god) and when we took the timing cover off about 2" depth of diesel came out on removal of the FIP its obviously leaking from the seal behind where the pulley sits (clear? ) So... Is this pump fubared? Can I replace this seal myself? How much roughly is a pump recon going to cost me? Is there anyone on here who can do it for me? What else do I need to do, apart from burn the whole effing thing as it has now had exactly double its value spent on it Mike.... off for a pint of Gin!

Hi Thanks for the info re insurance, I'm well used to ringing around, my address is in toxteth in liverpool... when you look at the risk codes mine says "refer" all the LR insurance I've had before has covered the trailer and anything on it up to 10k, which is about 9.9k more than mines worth! But thanks for the heads up I'll check with Pete Its taken me 14 weeks to get this VIC appointment so I'm not changing it! Ta Mike

Hi Will I think if you contact the usual suspects you can get an internal cage which you could then get a tilt made for? unless you're happy with a welder and bender and make your own? just make sure its tied to the chassis properly as per the thread in the tech archive Mike

Hi I drilled and tapped mine to M6 and used zinc plated bolts to hold P clips on, the zinc coating will prevent corrosion in the immediate vicinity of the thread, that also has a zoinc coated bolt in it, I also painted over the top just to make sure Mike

The vehicle inspector said it was a grey area, although reading the above it seems legal, the problem is that its not quite MOTable yet, and that I can't afford to insure it until after payday! I pay a lot for insurance because of my postcode, despite never having an accident Mike

Hi all, My 110 has its VIC check coming up and therefore I was wondering if anybody has a car trailer I can borrow for some beer tokens somewhere close to Northwich/Cheshire/Liverpool? It needs to be big enough to take a 110, and would be required on the 22nd of Oct. Thanks Mike

you could try sending Dave a PM on here, its 'ashtrans' Mike

Yup there should be crush tubes or more likely a '#' shaped noughts and crosses grid inside, if you have a carp aftermarket xmember these wont be there and will lead to it distorting, also I think technically you are advised to fit the nato hitch with 2 sets of nuts... Mike

excellent you can help me lift my roofrack on! Not going to able to make this trip, don't think I have time after my VIC check Mike