Nonimouse

If it was me, I'd be having a chat with Arjan - seeing as he is an international frieght specialist

What pressure is your fuel regulator running at?

If you kept up with social media, you would have seen that there is a 'change' in the this, to allow for pre 1986 vehicles to use LED's Facebook check Practical Classics page

I was unable to fit two identical batteries, so I used an CX24MF as an auxillary (it's te largest physical size that will fit in the RHS space on a D1). The main battery is a CX31MF and boy, is that baby packed in tight. To balance charge and to prevent the draining of the Main battery by the Aux, I used a Woods Auto VSR. This switches of the feed to the Aux if the Main drops below 12.5volts. A 200tdi will start on 10volts. I then have a Ctech trickle charger that I use to keep the Main topped up if I don't use it for a few weeks. When off camping I use a folding solar panel to do the same job. I run very few 'high drain' electrical items off the Aux - the fridge is gas and the camp lights are solar - so it's only every a 'top up'. I run a 65amp alternator. It's more than capable for what I need. The Aux runs all the Beacons and auxillary lighting for when I'm on site at night - but again, this is all LED so very low drain. The Main has more than enough cranking ability to start the 200 in the coldest of weather (especially with a OE Bosch starter motor) The 140amp VSR has never had issues with supplying to a winch battery - but I use a very efficient set up and don't 'competition winch' I like the ability to have the batteries seperate - I did leave the headlights on once and drain the Main, but simply bumped it from the Aux (although I do have a couple of Li jump packs in the vehicle) The Aux feed to vehicle is protected at 40amps with a trip. Aux sockets are all over the insdie of the vehicle under the bonnet and on the rear exterior It's simple, relatively cost effective and reliable. I've only used stuff that experience tells me will work. I do not see the point of you needing two batteries to winch with - this isn't a competition vehicle; so speed or 24v are pointless. I forget which engine you are running, but 1200CCA should be enough Heated windows barley touch 40amps and are used for very short periods - especially front. Mine were tripped to 30amp and never blew a trip, ever. Even in minus 20 I like the marine spec isolators - although Bluesea are just a brand name. You can get 48volt 1000amp isolators

I would suggest asking where the kit is sourced form - who makes the shocks/springs before they are painted for Raptor 4x4? The connecting points look poor SuperPro sell produts in Russia. They use Eiback Springs, Bilstien Shocks and SuperPro Bushes. They also test there upgrade kits properly. So you pay for quality. I would use them as a price guide

I have an RRC owning friend in Southern Spain who could find one for you. PM me if you are interested

We have a Khyam quick erect, four bedroom drive-away that we swap from the T4 to the Disco and back as we use a magnetic locating strip. Also have a 3 and a 4 man Quechua airbeam 4XL type. I have a couple of awnings that just clip onto the gutter rail of the Disco - cheap chinese units that seem to very good

There's a Reliant Fox down at 'the farm'. Runs, drives and is road legal. Red Top engine, so 40bhp and a published top speed of 80mph

It's a nice size - bigger than standard but not too big so as to effect the gearing. Also fits the disco archs well

I just don't see the point. I only use the rapeseed as it's available, the bulk of my mileage is for work, so fuel is almost paid for under the company fuel mileage scheme. I think when Diesel becomes more expensive (again) I will think about it some more

We just don't get snow here. But we get vicious cold spells, with few roads being gritted.

Exceptions to the rule would be those with sipes built in, like the Maxxis 764 or the Hankook RT03

Interesting. I run Hankook RT03's at the moment, which I love. Great tyre. But I mainly run them becuase I wanted a specific size that isn't common; namely 215/85x16. However that size is available from Toyo. I don't need an MT. Not really. They are rubbish when you are towing off road (better to spin out, than to dig a hole); MT's are rubbish on Peat. Most MT's are rubbish on ice... The Hankooks are getting a bit pricey...

I run on Rapeseed and Shell Diesel. 2 tanks to 1, for a large part of the year. But I fill my tank at half full, so it's a nice mix of both No tank heater, just standard 200tdi. We buy the rape seed in, run it through the press and filter through an old Bio-fuel tower. Only issue is more regular fuel filter changes. Rape oil still works at minus 2-3, but mixing it with diesel allows minus 3-4.

It's already been said, but I'll reitterate it: Greenlaning in the UK shouldn't need more than a decent All terrain, at most an inch or so higher and definitely no wider - if that doesn't work, get off the damn lane until it's fit to drive. Trialling requires lock as much as grip and articulation. Big wide tyres are for Mall cruisers, deserts and bog runs

Has to be the 110. The 90 has always been to small to be practical, have a family, have dogs and need to use it for anything. The Defender 2/Discovery 6 (as it is fast becoming known) is really useful in 110 format

Isn't that how the Pinz 6x6 is set up? We have had no issues with any of the G wagen re-builds having a side exit in front of the rear wheel. Both DVSA and MoT have been okay. Essentially big, long silencer with short 3" exit. The 606 sounds gorgeous, especially under load

I get this with my T4. Utter pita. I bought a compact de-humdifier from those nice Chinese chaps and run it form a mains connection - on a regular basis. Works well

You are getting good on google. You have succeeded once again, in blowing things out of all proportion... Once again interpreting your google searches to suit yourself and put a negative spin on a comment I made. When will you learn? This rather pathetic attitude towards trying to put down members of this forum, who have disagreed with you, is toxi and damaging to the pleasant atmosphere of the forum. Please stop. It belittles you. Finally do not assume I pour scorn on US power figures. If you were older and wiser you would know that references to US HP have been made in motorsport since before even I was born. Growing up in a motorsport family, I cut my teeth on them. I have nothing but respect for American hisotric motorsport and histoic vehicles/engines. Remember what assuming does.

You read the wrong bit on the internet 😆... SAE Gross is stil used by a lot of American tuners and engine shops; inlcuding some quite famous ones What is relevant to the thread or not, isn't really down to you, it's down to the a forumeers. This thread is about a Defender with an older Yank muscle car lump in it. I would also point out that who or what you know is actually just part of the ingredients to this forum. If you had a broader base of contacts within the engine tuning world, mayhap you would know of a Brit who uses W or kw to rate engine power; or maybe you would have realised that we actually have a number of overseas members.

Likewise

1 Metric HP is 735.5 watts 1 Imperial HP is 745 watts 1 Murican HP is 746 watts Older american engines were tested to SAE Gross Horsepower - withouth water pump, alternator, PS pump etc; so potentially much higher outputs for older engines It's a pedant's playground

I would agree with Blanco. Start at the waterpump. But whilst it's out, flush the system with a propriety cleaner and back flush the rad. Check the viscous coupling. Make sure the new coolant is to Manufactureres Recomended Concentration. Don't use OAT unless used previously. Also clean the outer core of the rad.

That's because it works Meant to ask, are you running an alloy core/plastic tank rad or a Brass and copper rad?

Wider isn't necessarily the way. Deeper is. We had a lot of problems with 105 series cruisers and higher operating temps. Huge wide rad, but only two rows deep. That was the 4.2NAD though The 200 has a huge capacity water jacket - way over the top. The 300 doesn't. TD5 is very unhappy to run hot, so has a big capacity rad