Happyoldgit

Not so fast there ...it says ...which is what I was getting at with all this type approval stuff as my XS was was made well after '98.

Perhaps if I reverse slowly out of here nobody will notice him....

Well the standard drop plate braces won't fit with this bar come step thing as it has it's own braces that run to the same points on the chassis. I'm a bit reluctant just to bolt a standard plate to this one minus braces what with everything having to be approved and such on vehicle manufactured after whatever date it is now.

My XS has one of these I could really do with an adjustable drop plate but Land Rover don't list one for fitting to this setup. Has anyone seen one?

Keep them black, in fact I would keep it as original as possible and that includes keeping the original paint. Don't go overboard with the bling or trying to update it, unmolested early 90's are getting harder to find.

I bought the same tool from classic car world toolshop a few months back to replace my old rivnut tool. The only problem I found with it is that the wide gape of the handles when fully open really restricts where you can use it.

Bear in mind that the original paint will quite probably have faded over time and that even using a good cutting compound will not restore it 100% to how it was originally. There's a good chance that if the paint is mixed to the original formula it will no longer match what is on the vehicle so the paint will need to be mixed to match the vehicle as it is now - or the particular area in question as fade rates can vary depending on the panel location.

VIN plate

All the little bits of play in the gears, splines, joints, diffs etc all add up - that amount of play is pretty normal.

Take the vehicle to your nearest auto paint factors and check it against their colour chips.

Because its possible that the switch used will not handle the load going through it. That said in this case he's using the switch on the lamp anyway so an additional switch is not required.

I had to do this a number of times in the past for various classic vehicles I've restored and owned. Valuations from motor engineers or vehicle marque clubs are the norm.

Good to see you survived the journey, how's the new country then?

Welcome back

They're pukka Nokia ones..

I've always had cradle kits too and have just installed another in my latest Defender and am about to strip out the one I installed in SWMBO's Freelander ready for her new vehicle in a few weeks time. I don't go much on the Borg look so have always stuck to mic's and also use the supplied extension speakers as the I personally find them easier to hear than feeding the audio out of the sound system speakers.

Hi Gareth and welcome. Always nice to have a fellow shooter and someone who uses their Land Rover for work aboard

Run a fused supply direct from the battery would be my choice.

The Self Build Motor Caravan Club should provide some info

Steady.....

...and the thinners you use. I can only echo what has already been said. Forget Halfords and get yourself to somewhere the trade use, tell them what you want to do, what facilities you have etc. If the guy has some time to spare he will more than likely guide you through what your choices are and how best to handle the products. If you can leave a sample panel so much the better, if not be prepared to spend some time going through their paint chips to get a match.

SWMBO is on the verge of replacing her '04 TD4 which she has owned from new which, IIRC now has something like 55,000 on the clock. The car still looks good with no visible signs of corrosion, it still pulls well, the gearbox and drivetrain is still sweet and the trim etc has held up well. The only warranty issue has been the failure of the clutch master cylinder - twice. The car has just been fitted with its third set of tyres. Having tested the new Freelander she decided that for her it was not particularly good value and has ordered herself a Honda CRV instead. HTH.

If it was in generally good nick I think that was a reasonable price.

I've turned on the exit sign over the door ----->