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M&S

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Everything posted by M&S

  1. I got mine from North Off Road. Happy to say that even with my welding they have stayed strong. Ok, we haven't winched from them yet but I've towed and pulled loads of stuff using them and am happy. http://www.northoffroad.co.uk/epages/es120586.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es120586_shop/Products/nor4
  2. I'll stick with my £30 Rally Giants for now I think
  3. We fitted some Britpart bearings to a mates and guess what...the mud shields didn't fit (he got the kit).
  4. Thanks for the pic, I wasn't sure. Any idea of prices for that light?
  5. In reply to the build thread, I think you have done a good job and it's something that is well worth loking at but the problem with your pricing is that you require a P38 diff in exchange, which, as a Disco 2 owner, I wouldn't have... Add that and I'm not far away from a LSD/Truetrac fitted to my current diff
  6. I find "Fleet Factors" are cheapest around here at the moment That or TRP (Truck and Trailer Parts).
  7. I beat you all hands down I reckon... I got a pair of door tops, complete with glass, in mint condition, for 99p I can't believe that I sold them and have since had to buy some more for my project
  8. I've just tried to post a bumper and found out it is a prohibited item I can't really disguise it as anything else either, well, not for the 99p that it sold for
  9. I wouldn't buy the one in the link though, or one from Britpart/Bearmach. The welding is terrible (looks like it is on the one in the link) and there's no flare on teh pipe where the hose goes over. I reckon that the hoses could blow off. It's happened to me on a Freelander. I got a kit from TD5 Alive, comes with good instructions for fitting and is well made in my opinion, and for just a few £ more. Regarding blanking the vacuum ppipes, I unplugged the solenoids so that they don't operate (so thats the first blank if you like) and then just used a small screw and a dab of silicone in the end of the pipes. Been 100% fine over the couple of years I've had this done. I didn't find the EGR removal made much/any difference to performance and/or economy. In fact I think on shorter,colder runs my economy is worse.
  10. Had an accident with one of those flat wire wheels in January. Still got the scar, and I had both hands on the grinder. Didn't stop it kicking back at me and landing in my chest though. Was messy and I'll NEVER use them again. I still use the ones in the drill, but won't use the knotted wheels in a grinder again. Far too unsafe in my opinion. And yes, I've served an apprenticeship, worked on the tools, done the grinding courses etc (none of which covered wire wheels strangely enough!). We never got given those at work and I think i understand why now
  11. Just to say the Disco 2 doesn't have a 4 pin diff, so don't go bidding on any of those I have, however, been looking at a P38 4 pin to fit to my D2 and couldn't see why not. Just need to weigh up if I want some sort of locking/lsd diff in the front or not. If not I'll be going for a P38 diff.
  12. This suggests the DVLA know it is a 300tdi, as the TD5 is 2493cc...
  13. No evidence to suggest it is dodgy at all. But then we don't need evidence when we have speculation I know of a farmer who bought a new 90, ran it into the ground over 10 years, never did any maintenance to it unless it absolutley needed it, and then left it parked up for a year when the gearbox went. Time for a new one anyway. £2k a year was cheap motoring for his business. To some people they are just tools for a job.
  14. Just cleaned my intercooler and there is always a little oil in the pipes/inlet manifold. I think most of this is from the breater
  15. It should be fine, LR made them for towing and such as you say. York doesn't get THAT hot on a summers day I know As suggested, an oil change might be worthwhile, and also checking the oil cooler. I recently cleaned my rad, intercooler and oil cooler and honestly, I got a bucket of sand and silt from them. Just run a hose ofver it for a while until it runs clear. At least after that and an oil change, if you still have a problem, you knwo something else isn't right and can justify a larger cooler
  16. I think the faults listed are because it isn't firing, not the reason that it isn't firing. The TD5 is sensitive to battery voltage so a jump start is a good idea if you think your battery may be a bit low. It'll still turn over but won't fire unless it gets something above 12v. Saying that, your battery will most likely be dead now anyway if you've been trying to start it a few times Inaine has covered most things to check. Also check the fuel cut-off switch (on the bulkhead?), although this usually causes the hazards to flash when putting the key in.
  17. Did you try the prime/purge? Did it work? The fuel pumps can whine quite a lot when the fuel tank gets low and can then be a pain to start again afterwards unless you do the above prime/purge. I presume you have/had plenty of fuel in the vehicle though... If that's the case and you are sure the pump is making excessive noise it might be worth taking off a fuel pipe to check you are getting fuel to the head? Is there a strainer on the bottom of the pump that could be blocked? Thinking winter, cold weather, stood, etc...
  18. I have fitted rally spec mudflaps to my D2, hanging off the steel rear bumper. I won't ever buy rubber mud flaps again! They've stayed on through everything that ripped previous mudflaps off and aren't showing any signs of wear. I'd suggest buying the rally spec flaps or material and cutting them yourself, don't see the need for a template though. That way you could actually make them longer or wider etc to suit. Just my thoughts. Oh, and regarding Mikes mudflaps, I've seen them and they work, and were free, and don't look at all bad.
  19. M&S

    Paddocks

    Why not phone and ask
  20. Siemens were/are the genuine ones, so I stuck with that. Mine was £80 of ebay I think, from Exeter Land Rover.
  21. Thanks guys, should have said that this is a TD5 disco. We did check all of the bushes but mostly concentrated on the front, so will give the rear another good looking at. Hadn't considered "rear wheel steering" so was looking in the wrong area. That's why I asked for ideas Cheers, Martin
  22. Hi all, I seem to have a bit of an issue with the handling of the Disco. I have swapped tyres around (to eliminate a vibration problem actually) and fitted new rear shocks (fronts to go on later today) but the problem is still there. Swapping the tyres around did highlight something though, as the rears are higher pressure than the front I think it exaggerated what I have been trying to put my finger on. Basically every bump seems to have an effect of the steering, not in the way that a steering damper problem does and you don't feel anything through the steering wheel, but the vehicle does move left or right when going over bumps. Only a small amount, and it's more of a drift than a sudden change in direction. Also I noticed that under acceleration in a straight line it pulls right, and under decelration/braking it pulls left. Steering feels light and wandering and you need to continually make small adjustments to keep it in a straight line. It feels like when there's far too much weight in the back and the front goes a bit light, then you drive down a bumpy road on a blustery day! I know what you'll all say...panhard rod bushes right? Nope. All of the bushes have been checked by myself and a garage, and they are all fine, no play in them, no play in anything. Radius arms, mounts, steering, track rods, etc etc are all fine. I have a second, unrelated problem I think, but I shall mention it anyway just in case it is a symptom of something else...and that is a vibration between 60-65mph, worse when coasting down rather than cruising or accelerating through. I am sure that is not related and I am also sure it is the front diff in need of replacemenbt again! Anyway, we/I am obviously missing something??? Help, please (PS - test drive welcome if you are an expert and live local to Durham!)
  23. Totally different vehicles in my opinion, and something a test drive of both would quickly decide! As a family/daily drive, for the same money, I'd get the D3 hands down. If he's just going to use it for work etc, trash it/break it/abuse it, buy a cheaper D2 and keep the savings for repairs.
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