steve b

Bay windows? This may be the best spec'd overland caravan ever One Q though , square corners for the door/window apertures do tend to lead to cracking in the corners of the aperture ? do you think the bonded structure will reduce the risk of this? Nice build , I'm reading with interest as it your idea's may suit my head doodles for my de-mount camper body for my mog cheers Steveb

Do you mean the rear trailing arm to axle bolts? or the 2 bolts that hold the A frame ball joint to the A frame? Either way , extremely dangerous and more to the point its not necessary to remove the axle to change the diff....it's not even necessary to jack the vehicle up ! just chock wheels , remove halfshafts , rear prop and then remove the diff If I were you Aleci I'd get a manual and some spanners and a socket set and get into it yourself in the future , its clear that you may not be getting the service you are paying for. Cheers Steveb

It should be fine , Tdi's are not engine killers whrn the cam belt goes , they only ever bend pushrods or rockers or at worst break the rocker shaft. cheers Steveb

Have you re-set the tappet clearance? The popping noise usually indicates that the valves are not fully closed on the compression stroke cheers Steveb

Mmm rear passengers sit with legs either side of LPG tank filler/outlet ... Steveb

Hi Nige I think they are called rib rolls , I think the HoF's had one/made one during the last build thread on here , would be fairly easy to make with a lathe etc . The wheels need to be small enough to fit the smallest tube you will need to put a ring onto cheers Steveb

Have you got an Indespension branch nearby? They usually hire out trailers cheers Steveb

Hi Carlos You may benefit from pegging the diff to reduce CW deflection - Hybrid-from-hell / Nige on here has done a thread on here iirc and then custom made higher grade shafts . Which bits are breaking? The 1 ton 109 series III had Salisbury's front and rear but they are rare to find cheers Steveb

That does sound like the DMF is getting worn out , the solid replacement flywheels take the std clutch kit and are a straight replacement . Rakeway and Britpart do solid FW's to name two suppliers. Its unlikely that a failed DMF/clutch will damage anything when it finally goes , it may carry on driving ok for sometime, if you start getting any vibration beyond normal that would be my cue to change it . I've not noticed a difference in vibes or clutch take-up when changing to a SFW cheers Steveb

Here are the last 2 pages I hope these are of use to you , looking at your pics you seem to have most of the parts , there is no mounting bracket for the rear of the winch to the front crossmember visible and you may need to get a few hyd. fittings but you have all the important bits I've just looked again at your pics and there is no pto dog engagement fork/top shown ? but you do have the sliding dog clutch cheers Steveb

2 more to follow cheers Steveb

And here are the next 4 cheers Steveb

Hi jemmyrover Here are the 1st 4 pics of the manual cheers Steveb

I do think that Bearmach are generally a good parts supplier, it just hacks me off when stuff like this is done , fuel tanks are safety critical items and as such should never be compromised by corner cutting........ As I said , fixed with a quids worth of fibre washers but a fair bit of time to drain/remove/fix/re-fit and not least lost fuel too . I'm sure you will find everything to be ok, Gavin , just make sure you look carefully at the replacement bits - if I had it would have saved me a lot of faffing about . cheers Steveb

Pics will help , it does sound like you have an early alternator with an external regulator , if you can get hold of a later style one with the built in reg it 'll make the wiring check much easier - these were fitted to series III LandRovers and most other vehicles from the mid 70's on , maybe your local breakers have something? cheers Steveb

I agree for production and flexibiliy , bandsaws are the industrial choice , donkey saws are ok for small scale or diy , like all machine tools correct setting and maintainance make all the difference cheers Steveb

Dan I've just renewed my policy and it clearly states on the paperwork HIC is part of the Liverpool Victoria group ? Having said that the breakdown cover seems to be through Adrian Flux... Any explanation for this? cheers Steveb

How about using the RRC suspension links and mounts and then use a coilover shock or gasprung type spring/shocks in place of the RRC springs? There was a Company here in the UK a while back that did a rear coil conversion using the original rear leaf front mounts for the trailing arms which were custom made to suit but iirc the rear coils were in line with the chassis rails and were in a tube cup let into the chassis rail.. Modding the axles width and custom shafts could end up being a pain , altho well spec'd shafts shouldn't give any problems If you do go ahead keep us all posted with plenty of pics cheers Steveb

Well I've just spent a happy few hours removing a new tank that I fitted for someone a couple of weeks ago to fix a leak when full......... It turns out the return line weld nuts x5 in the top of the tank are not blind sealed nuts as the OE tank was that this one replaced but ordinary weldnuts , allowing the diesel to come up the thread and out around the head of each screw . FFS This is just REALLY carp cost cutting and/or bad design , what is it with these parts suppliers??? Luckily I have a box of assorted fibre washers and put 5 of these under the 5 screw heads , jobs a good'un now This is sold as a tank replacement kit so you get the rubber seal ring and bayonet ring for the sender , but no olives for fuel feed and return and no cork gasket for the return line either ...... so 3/10 and could do a lot better ....hohum just so ya all know if you fit one ......... cheers Steveb

As David says above , if the bulbs are only blowing when the engine is running its a voltage regulating problem . Is it a dynamo or alternator ? If its a dynamo you need to go over the connections to the black box Have you flashed the dynamo to ensure its got the correct polarity for your battery earth? Are you on the north or south Island? my brother and his family are down south near Rangiora. He's a bit of a LandRover nut too cheers Steveb

I've had a Disco t/box in mine for 8 yrs and imo its fine . I'm running 235/85-16 tyres and with full tanks a hyd. winch and tank and the full cage it goes a little over2.5t . Running solo its perfectly usable and I tow fully loaded 3.5t trailers too . Once fully warm it will hold 5th with the trailer at 55mph fine and if I need lower gearing for pulling away on uphill junctions etc there is low range , with careful practice and some double declutching on the move changes to high range are quiet and quick enough I took a fully loaded 3.5t Ifor to S.France a few years back for a mate - 700miles and had no issues Land Rovers are not speedy anyway so for me its a good set up - that and a pto hyd pump on the t/box and the cost of OD's make the decision easy Engine is a std 200Tdi cheers Steveb

I use HIC , who are part of the LV group , it is a bit of a faff though as I have to go through the whole agreed value appraisal every year , you would think once its set up renewal would be automatic and straight forward .....and its bloddy expensive , I reckon I've paid 3/4 of the vehicle value in premiums in the last 9 years with no claims and a clean history . It does cover me for work use as well as private though Cheers Steveb

There are several different details The ones that come to mind right now : early 80" with sidelights in bulkhead top corners Later 80" steel bulkhead - no sidelights Mid range ('52 ?) so called aluminuim bulkhead made from angle iron and ally 86"/88"/107"/109" are all much the same iirc As for suppliers of new , I know Ashtree do refurb'd galv'd bulkheads of various models but not aware of any others Cheers Steveb

Oh ok , a comp pressure test would still be useful I think , just so you have an idea where it's at . cheers steveb

the wiring in series suggests it's a 2286cc head I'd say . If the plug thread is the M14 size a compression test to check values might be in order - if its wildly higher than the book spec then a thicker HG would help to bring it back in spec . cheers Steveb