steve b

As said above the heater plugs are different size threads , a nice clean engine there cheers Steveb

Didn't a ton used to be 2240lbs? Therefore 4 tons = 4070kgs... Maybe if you are always towing on the limit a different tow vehicle would be better - a Unimog maybe? A bigger investment granted , but much more capable of heavier towing even with earlier machines cheers Steveb

I'd second using a good size ext lead , and also make it just long enough , having 30m coiled onto a drum will not help as I understand it . Using 0.6mm wire will help with maximising the weld pool . Multiple runs or a series of short duration spot/puddle type welds will work fine cheers Steveb

Great pics Erik , good to see more of your exploits cheers Steveb

oops I did read it , numpty moment I think ... cheers Phil Steveb

There should be a section in your owners handbook that warns against driving in transferbox difflock on hard surfaces , and to only use difflock on soft or loose surfaces. Also failing to reconnect any linkages or warning light switchs is grossly negligent imo ...are you sure the rear diff is broken ? under that sort of stress (locked TB diff) its possible the splines in the drive member can be stripped if there is already wear - these are the steel centres with the small plastic cap on in the centre of the wheel As said above any 4x4 specialist should be fully aware of this good luck with sorting it out cheers Steveb

Good work everyone , a good deed done well The members of this forum are a good bunch and this reflects it cheers Steveb

If you draw air from under the seatbox you'll get all the fumes from under the vehicle ? not to mention watervapour when its raining etc My secondary heater recirculates air inside , I think there is always plenty of fresh air getting into most LandRovers Is there room behind a seatback? or maybe fit it behind the tub bulkhead and blow through a hole into the front of the cab. My second heater is a 26row serck matrix boxed in with a Micra rad fan to move the air nice and toasty in a few miles cheers Steveb

I regularly use 400a Kemppi , 450a Murex , 500a Butters - all power switched at the transformer which work well across the power range from bottom to about 3/4 throttle on 1.0mm 250kg marathon packs , the reason we can't get full throttle is max'd out wire speed . Thicker wire would sort that out but I need to weld 1mm to 30mm regularly and 1.0mm gives that. I also use a 450a ESAB with electronic power settings on the wire feed dog but it does struggle to get started at low wire speeds/power settings on thin stuff , but otherwise a lovely machine with 'soft' start - great for leakproof stop/start points in the weld ....in those idle moments when I'm daydreaming I do think of pulse migs cheers Steveb

Excellent news I'm sure now its under way all will be fine cheers Steveb

Keep at it Neill , sounds like you are getting there Bit of a rule of thumb , I know, but if you can get your at rest shock travel roughly mid way and still not bottom on bump, nor put excessive tension on drop - thats why I mentioned check straps- you'll be giving the shocks the best chance to be effective 2nd Eightpot , wish I was there too Happy trails Steveb

Hi Neill Whatever route you take sourcing shocks maybe some sort of check strap would help to take the load at full extension? Jim Attrill would be a good starting point to contact if you are in SA You could use the std shock mount to make lowered mts by welding to a lowering plate (6-8mm thick) drilled to match std hole pattern in the chassis, appropriate strengthening webs will be needed hth Steveb

Yes, and yes Keep us all updated on your progress , RRC's are my favourite of the 'modern' LandRover designs cheers Steveb

Time all depends on how much needs doing and what sort of finish is req'd - flushed repairs that are invisible for full restoration do take more time If the job stalls out again pm me , I could have a look at it for you , I'm about 35miles from you , mid Suffolk Cheers Steveb

Are you looking for restoration or repair? And do you have any pics showing the affected areas? cheers Steveb

The kingpins are adjustable if play is small - there should be shims under the steering arm and the top cap . I'd be inclined to pull the top pin with the wheel off and the hub/outer swivel hsg supported and check the railko bush and thrust pad , these do wear or break up if left dry thru lack of use - its splash lubed as the driveshafts rotate in use cheers Steveb

(null) ? please , while you're explaining slang Ali realising I may look like an old out of touch git Steveb

Very nice Soren version 2.0 is looking even better , how did you profile the tensioner/layer arms? hi-def plasma or Laser? some very clean fab work going on in the shed there with the Viking Stig cheers Steveb

:hysterical: those alternative routes are always the best ...its nice to drive slowly through the countryside and have the space to appreciate it all cheers Steveb

Using an OD in low is an excellent way to split the casing half on Fairey style (layshaft) OD's as I found out many years ago to my cost no idea re possibility of making a series OD fit an LT230 tho re oil in faireys making a larger tank piped into the filler and level plug would be relatively easy I reckon cheers Steveb

Thats a dramatic improvement Nige , the HAZ lines are much more even and continuous keep us posted cheers Steveb

pictures nige , pictures Good move I reckon , proper tuition will stay with you forever The difference in the wieght of the torch compared to a mig takes some getting used to looking forward to seeing the course notes cheers Steveb

A mate of mine done it in the '90's , he used a S111 windscreen to fit the body line and probably had to add a few more body mounts/supports but it seemed pretty easy . They are kin heavy though ....my old 11a went over the scales at 2.5T empty cheers Steveb

Hi Have you reset the valve clearances? and are all the little valve stem caps in place? Also , did you loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP pulley to the IP hub? - the pulley is slotted to allow correct tensioning of the belt with everything lined up , re-tighten once the tension is correct. Did you rotate the crank twice after fitting the belt and re-check the timing marks? Finally its better to rotate the IP only in the direction its supposed to run cheers Steveb

The tank sender is the early style from your description so I reckon all is good btw the 3rd terminal on the sender may be a low fuel level light cheers Steveb