steve b

Hi Kris Its not residue from the previous problem is it ? As Ralph says crack test - usually a pressure loss test on a test table is essential , I can recommend Dykes engineering on Spring road close to you How are you getting on with the rest of it ? Cheers Steveb

:hysterical: But possibly even more hysterical , it sold for £2250!! You've just gotta wonder about all the body/control ecu's and what , if anything still works.... ...it is said that beauty is in the eye of the beholder more likely the buyer must have some grit in the eye Cheers Steveb

My experience's of waving FF off at a ferry terminal usually involve the phrase" drive-by booking in " , with the ramp going up in 43 seconds Tis an adventure at the weekend hehe cheers Steveb

Keep us posted , if the tagine turns into a tappas , no worries , just take plenty of pics cheers Steveb

Dan - Dirtydiesel had one on a RRC a while back that went to Ladoga, let me see if I can find a pic.. Yep here you go iirc the RRC had an Isuzu 2.8 in cheers Steveb

Why not put a std new one on if the identity is unknown? If you have the same uj's front and rear = less spares to carry cheers Steveb

Result Snapon do make some good specialist stuff On with the rebuild now then cheers Steveb

Is this the right moment to mention HfH's kittyshine waxoyl procedures? anyone got a link ? Back on topic , how about one of those larger pressurized plant spray pots that come with a wanderhose and lance? cheers Steveb

And article 3 I didn't find the write up I was looking for originally, from Overlander4x4around '84-'86 showing the steering shafts connecting the 2 steering boxs and steering column . May have some pic's of the one close to me soon for you all Anyway , a bit of history cheers Steveb

Article 2 S

Ok , after much dust and searching , article 1 cheers Steveb

Lathe drills are clockwise or anti- clock , ac drillbits are usually used on capstans/cnc's to allow drilling ops while turning off the rear toolpost Western used a carbide burr in a dremel type tool to get over a similar problem iirc a while ago cheers Steveb

a quick google shows them to be implement use - bigtyres.co.uk are a supplier nice tread but not such a good grip on side slopes? cheers Steveb

Or just use rectangular rhs of an appropriate scale - isn't the Ibex frame made of box section? cheers Steveb

I'll get some pic's as soon as I can sort it If I can find the orig article later I'll post up copies of it ..I'm in Suffolk . Have a look in the video shack for one of Forestgrumps threads called Troy I think . It's a 6x6 RRC with electric rear steer air susp. with a lift up middle axle , its not on the road now but is , again, not far from me cheers Steveb

There's an 8x8 Esarco not so very far from me , if I get a chance I'll get some pic's I may even have a copy of the original mag it was first published in - Overlander4x4 - I think ... no comments about age ta iirc it was 2 front RRC chassis' joined back to back , 'twas a while ago that I read the article and the steering was a mechanical link from the front to the rear An interesting project , worth another look as it's been a while since the Esarco cheers Steveb

Is the diaphragm on the injector pump free to move ? Have just freed one off for someone that had dunked the engine at a local P&P last winter, very similar symptoms to what you descibe Will ...somebody had told him the turbo had gone phoot .. 5 mins with the WD40 , job done cheers Steveb

Hi Richard, Yep thats possible , its all steel , if you can't find anyone locally to you I can do that for you , its not totally essential as any excess clearance in the dog clutch won't give any probs due to loading on the cable . You could try Parham airfield ind est , am sure there's a Fabricator/engineer on there , can't remember thier name just now cheers Steveb

It looks like its been run partially engaged, you may be able to file/grind that back to clean faces on the dog and drum Make sure if you do that the faces are 'parallel' to the mainshaft. You've made some good progress there Richard Steveb

Looking at the parts diagram I have , the dog clutch end assy of the winch should slide off the main shaft once off the vehicle and any tie bars are removed . The mainshaft bearing in the case is a self aligning plain brg , and the dog clutch is splined to the mainshaft . Once off you should find a circlip to remove which then allows the drum to slide off. The mainshaft is located to the worm wheel with 2 keys 180deg apart I would suggest taking the side cover off the wormbox to see what may be broken first, the 2 keys will be visible from there (providing the outer ballbrg comes off with the case). Should you end up having to strip it the worm has to come out before the wormwheel/mainshaft cheers Steveb

The main way to ensure a good adventure is to make regular checks (daily before you start) for faults , jacking each wheel off the ground to check for freeplay/bearing noise once a week will give you plenty of warning of impending doom If you end up stuck in the gloop or in a river then a bit of an overhaul afterwards wouldn't hurt ..but I'm sure you've already got all that sorted out . At a push chemical metal or even araldite can be used to re-face oil seal track. I once used a high lift jack as a slide hammer to pull a siezed hub off a Disco for someone in Poland. Luckily the back inner race came off with a 4 1/2" grinder at the local metalworkers cheers Steveb

If you get stuck I'd be happy to have a look at it for you , drop me a pm if you need any help cheers Steveb

V8 90 should do it , if you are after the axle minus diff I have one ..Brakes would need a refurb tho , from a '85 90 cheers Steveb

......is there enough bandwidth? Doors on Defenders Seating ergonomics in Defenders Freelander clutch release mechanism/ trans Electronics across the range TdV6 EGR's / fuel pump drive cheers Steveb

I use Zintec for repair work , much better than std CR/HR sheet , and not much more money . 2.5 or 3 for chassis and 1.2/1.6 for bulkheads and doors ....0.1 mm is only .004" .. Cheers Steveb