steve b

you need to put a temporary test gauge in the winch feed hyd hose and get a definite reading , up to 200 bar should be fine as a line pressure , ONLY use proper test kit as 200 bar of hyd pressure is V dangerous if miss-handled , its something a mobile hyd vanman could do for you if you don't have access to the right kit . Was it with the drum fully loaded with cable ? and also what size pipework are you using for pressure and pump supply ? and what sort of contol valve? and what gear/engine speed were you testing at ? 4th(1:1) at 2500rpm is usually peak pump performance The grade of hyd oil will make a difference too . What size is your tank? My Mayflower that's now hyd blows the relief valve a lot sooner with a full drum cheers Steveb

...or a forklift breaker, its all out there on plant , you've just got to find some at a sensible price an orbitrol steering rotary valve thingy , a double ended ram and a smallish pump driven by a vee belt off the crank and you're away cheers Steveb

I would have thought there are plenty of alternatives -Toolstation / local hardware shop / halfrauds/B&Q etc etc ...and the corrugated plastic I had in mind is the cheap small size you use for cheapo garden tool shed roofing just cut to fit Steveb

A small drawer chest thats got a handle on the top and then lay small corrugated plastic in the drawers to lay the bits in cheers Steveb

Hi Jim The governor is only really required when you are using the pto to drive something like a large compressor or generator where the load varies and is heavy . The pto you have is the std mechanical pto unit , so will drive lots of different things with a bit of creative fabrication including a hyd. pump cheers Steveb

Hi You could put up some pic's of what you have and show the mis-fit , the proper cabs for early 80"ers are different iirc to the later 86"etc cabs.. cheers Steveb

Any more news on the prep and entry list ? cheers Steveb

I thought commercial speed restrictions on 3.5t or less is based on whether the vehicle has rear windows in the cab/ rear door(s)? cheers Steveb

I've used the Irwin extractors on rounded 6 and 12 point bolt heads and locking wheel nuts that were completely round where the key was broken/lost , very useful tool and grips whatever is left of a fixing ,providing the remains come within the size range of the sockets iirc Snap-on do a similar set. cheers Steveb

Bay windows? This may be the best spec'd overland caravan ever One Q though , square corners for the door/window apertures do tend to lead to cracking in the corners of the aperture ? do you think the bonded structure will reduce the risk of this? Nice build , I'm reading with interest as it your idea's may suit my head doodles for my de-mount camper body for my mog cheers Steveb

Do you mean the rear trailing arm to axle bolts? or the 2 bolts that hold the A frame ball joint to the A frame? Either way , extremely dangerous and more to the point its not necessary to remove the axle to change the diff....it's not even necessary to jack the vehicle up ! just chock wheels , remove halfshafts , rear prop and then remove the diff If I were you Aleci I'd get a manual and some spanners and a socket set and get into it yourself in the future , its clear that you may not be getting the service you are paying for. Cheers Steveb

It should be fine , Tdi's are not engine killers whrn the cam belt goes , they only ever bend pushrods or rockers or at worst break the rocker shaft. cheers Steveb

Have you re-set the tappet clearance? The popping noise usually indicates that the valves are not fully closed on the compression stroke cheers Steveb

Mmm rear passengers sit with legs either side of LPG tank filler/outlet ... Steveb

Hi Nige I think they are called rib rolls , I think the HoF's had one/made one during the last build thread on here , would be fairly easy to make with a lathe etc . The wheels need to be small enough to fit the smallest tube you will need to put a ring onto cheers Steveb

Have you got an Indespension branch nearby? They usually hire out trailers cheers Steveb

Hi Carlos You may benefit from pegging the diff to reduce CW deflection - Hybrid-from-hell / Nige on here has done a thread on here iirc and then custom made higher grade shafts . Which bits are breaking? The 1 ton 109 series III had Salisbury's front and rear but they are rare to find cheers Steveb

That does sound like the DMF is getting worn out , the solid replacement flywheels take the std clutch kit and are a straight replacement . Rakeway and Britpart do solid FW's to name two suppliers. Its unlikely that a failed DMF/clutch will damage anything when it finally goes , it may carry on driving ok for sometime, if you start getting any vibration beyond normal that would be my cue to change it . I've not noticed a difference in vibes or clutch take-up when changing to a SFW cheers Steveb

Here are the last 2 pages I hope these are of use to you , looking at your pics you seem to have most of the parts , there is no mounting bracket for the rear of the winch to the front crossmember visible and you may need to get a few hyd. fittings but you have all the important bits I've just looked again at your pics and there is no pto dog engagement fork/top shown ? but you do have the sliding dog clutch cheers Steveb

2 more to follow cheers Steveb

And here are the next 4 cheers Steveb

Hi jemmyrover Here are the 1st 4 pics of the manual cheers Steveb

I do think that Bearmach are generally a good parts supplier, it just hacks me off when stuff like this is done , fuel tanks are safety critical items and as such should never be compromised by corner cutting........ As I said , fixed with a quids worth of fibre washers but a fair bit of time to drain/remove/fix/re-fit and not least lost fuel too . I'm sure you will find everything to be ok, Gavin , just make sure you look carefully at the replacement bits - if I had it would have saved me a lot of faffing about . cheers Steveb

Pics will help , it does sound like you have an early alternator with an external regulator , if you can get hold of a later style one with the built in reg it 'll make the wiring check much easier - these were fitted to series III LandRovers and most other vehicles from the mid 70's on , maybe your local breakers have something? cheers Steveb

I agree for production and flexibiliy , bandsaws are the industrial choice , donkey saws are ok for small scale or diy , like all machine tools correct setting and maintainance make all the difference cheers Steveb