steve b

The gauges would read a bit higher than they should , whatever transducer is connected to the gauge will be a varying resistance to give the needle reading its matching position I'm pretty sure iirc the unstabilised fuel gauge needle is a sort of arrow point , that goes to its level immediately when ign on ,and the later VS gauge is a sort of blunt point that rises slowly to its level when ign on cheers Steveb

if the gauge(s) in the dash are original S11 and the sender(s) are too then it is not voltage stabilised - this didn't happen 'til late 11A on - hence the fuel gauge dancing around when offroad Cheers Steveb

very impressive Soren , I'm sure I saw smoke coming off the 130's tyres So how does it work out for drive-assist ? And any idea of the line pull force? You have no overload protection in the system so what do you think may break first ? The operators nerve or the cable ? Some excellent innovation there guys cheers Steveb

.......... Designed Mechanical Failure absolute pants , another built in fail point that ups the cost of running things beyond 5yrs old to a prohibitively expensive level jmho of course Steveb

my mistake with the glowplug wiring - I was thinking of 2 1/4 plugs - yours are 12v and would seem to be wired correctly. Do you have a heat timer relay in the circuit ? it'll be between no4 HP and the ign. switch . I'd guess not ,looking at the gauge of the brown/red. One from an LDV fitted with this engine would be a good mod , it takes the high current away from the ign. switch . cheers Steveb

....if you refitted the glowplugs with the wires touching each other - the large ring on one and the small ring on the other the heater circuit will bypass the plugs (load) and go straight to earth = short circuit = smoke and melted wires If you fit a relay for the heater plugs it will need to be 80-100a, wiring details are normally on the relay Also check the resistor coil on the bulkhead - in the heater plug circuit before no4 plug hth Steveb

mm thats nice Thats right Les , externally the later 2 litre has an element oil filter , whereas the siamesed bore has a bypass oil filter can connected to the oil galleries by 2 steel pipes enjoy cheers Steveb

What about using a Motorcycle chain supplier? DID chains are pretty HD not that I have bought any bike chain lately as my BMW gs is shaft-drive Stennetts should be open - ask for Steven Steve

Hi Dan East Anglian Bearings would be worth a try as FRF said , I also use Hayley Bearings or there is FW Stennett no www - 01473785815 They Ag/Hydraulic specialists and have several thousand m2 of bits for nearly everything - have you considered going up a size in simplex? all the best for the hols to you all btw cheers Steveb

To check the boost Dia. , remove the turbo pressure pipe- small banjo fitting- from the top of the BD housing on the IP, then remove the 4 slothead screws holding the top of the BD housing . Under it you will see a rubber diaphragm attached to a plunger , check this for holes and make sure the plunger is free to move down under finger pressure . Also check the rubber boot that protects the vent to atmosphere in the housing under the BD . The boost pipe should be checked too at the turbo end where its fitted with a rubber sleeve and spring clips A final thought - has the throttle cable outer plastic ferrule wound itself back up the cable so you aren't getting full throttle ? hth Steveb

Is the intercooler/pipework/manifold gasket all leak free? and the is the airfilter ok? Is the fuel filter good? and the lift pump? Is the boost diaphragm ok and the boost pipe to it ? and does the plunger on the pump side of the dia. move ok ? I'm assuming Tdi hth Steveb

I reckon it would have to be engaged all the time as the auto will always want to turn the OP shaft at the back of the box, even in neutral , so not really viable imo. Why not use a 1:1.003 T-box with the auto as used on auto RRC's? cheers Steveb

...errr ....7mpg ? on the drive is about as far as anyone could afford to adventure cheers Steveb

Excellent video Carlos , lovely to see old LandRovers in the mud . Are you sure that was Bogota ? It looks like heaven to me ... cheers Steveb

3/8" BSF cheers Steveb

There will be 2 dowels at each bolted joint to ensure accurate alignment any mis-alignment will cause the weakest link to go - and I'm not talking about Boothy Cheers Steveb

Happy trails to you both , with the forethought that you've both put into it I'm sure it'll be great To the journey - wheres the beer glass smiley when you need it ? As an aside , I see from the www that they are planning on being away for more than a year , how does that work with insurance/tax/mot ? Cheers Steveb

Go on then , how did you do the brakes ? Over-run trailer brakes are normally cable operated, I suppose with a bit of work a cable caliper from a car would fit - iirc Mundano rears look about workable, still no auto reverse tho? cheers Steveb

And also make sure that your headbolt holes in the block are clean and dry before re-assembly , fluid in these holes when you rebuild can crack the block when the bolts are wound down cheers Steveb

The engine block drain plug is on the side of the block under the manifolds/turbo. Be sure to drain the engine oil too from the sump cheers Steveb

Our press brake is a 4m bed 250t Colly ... which will do 10mm in 4m lengths with the right btm V tool As said above a wider btm vee will reduce the tonnage but increase the bend radius The general guide for vee width is 8x matl thickness cheers Steveb

secure a known weight to the empty body and check for rate of descent , when you have the speed you want your hyd supplier should be able to work it out from your existing valve . Put the load above the ram pivot when testing. One other point to raise , what weight / viscosity of oil are you using ? 30 or less should be adequate for this app hth Steveb

I think you have it there , the original tipper body would have longer and heavier , the return port in the valve needs to be a bit bigger to compensate for the reduced wieght I'd say Do you have a local friendly hyd shop to talk to about the estimated wieght on the ram when empty? cheers Steveb

I'd drain the oil from the back axle and check for bits of planet gear out of the rear diff for a start - while you are under there check the bushes on the trailing arms and the balljoint on the Aframe cheers Steveb

What colour is the oil on the dipstick? You could do a pressure loss test in-situ , if its losing pressure on test pull the head off and get it re-checked for cracks What sort of gasket did you use? cheers Steveb