steve b

... could be a paddle finger error and its in fact july 2011 Anyhoo welcome and enjoy Steveb

Have you checked the wiring to the trigger? and the switch in the torch itself , cheaper hard wired torchs often only use brass blades to contact the wire feed motor hth Steveb

Nice work there Dan , as always . I made my front bumper out of 2.5mm in much the same way with a centre section wrapped round the winch mount with bolted on ends outside the chassis. Looking forward to seeing the cage coming along mate Hope you are all well btw Cheers Steveb

Tis indeed a freewheel unit , also fitted to the Rover P4 cars , only on '47 - mid '49 . A neat idea using packs of 3 different size rollers to lock up one way and freewheel the other Got some of these LR boxs in the shed , and a FW unit off a P4 too ....is that my anorak? Why thankyou cheers Steveb

Pic's , we need pic's DD/FF Are you going to have internal X-bracing ? or more like mine ? cheers Steveb

come on then , spill the beans , what are you building now? ....well someone had to ask my sillbars on my 109 are 60 x 30 box laying 'flat' cheers Steve... a fan of sympathetic resto's

You can get ali cutting jigsaw blades, for that small length of cut a 4.5" anglegrinder with an Inox 1.0 thick disc would work fine ...if you were nearby I'd offer to guillotine them for you cheers Steveb

Ditto , a return above the fluid level will introduce air bubbles into the oil, especially on a smaller tank ,with the potential flow rate you have tank capacity will be relevant too cheers Steveb

Thats a neat idea How does it stand up under full load offline pulls? cheers Steveb

Its a bit impossible to offer any further help without some Specs ..tank size ..pipe size ..filter loc'n ..valve type ..pump/motor..... cheers Steveb

Yes , and that sounds like what it is , whats the system spec? cheers Steveb

Nice write up I have an original V890 rear 4 planet in the back of mine , shortly to be followed by one in the front , out of interest how different is the P38 centre to the V890 rear? cheers Steveb

I'm sure you have some pictures of mine , but if not here are a couple Fridge has seen my truck so knows the bodywork , but for others who haven't, the A,B&C posts are all box section posts horizonally joined across the bulkhead with box and across the floor at the B post at floor level and also box section sillbars under the doors to create a lower cage . will have to try and catch up soon mate 109's rule Steveb

Running the winch from a PAS pump , even an uprated one will only ever give you much less speed and power than a properly installed electric system. There are several winch install threads on here incl milemarkertypeS' thread on runnung a dual pas pump on a 90 powering a MM. Hydraulics only come into there own with the right pump/motor and valveblocks pipes. My hyd conv. on a Fairey mech winch is running a pto pump - approx 9 gal/min @2500rpm at 200bar to a dowty reversible gear motor -approx 6.5gal/min @ 2500rpm and 1/2" hyd pipework. This also runs the rear MM with the std RollerStator motor thru a changover valve. A belt driven Hyd pump running thru an AC clutch may cope with the load when the belt(s) are dry... Make sure your electrics are all well up to spec - wire x-section , relays , earths , batteries and alternator(s) and you will have much more success. Doubling the line for heavy pulls will help too hth Steveb

I think the drive members will foul the wheel centre , back in the day when people were fitting RRC rostyles to series Land Rovers the wheel centre of the "spokes" had to be heated and stretched to clear, and as Jon says studs are smaller , and more importantly screwed in and staked so designed to take a wheel where the centre dia is a close fit to the hub register. Later S111 hubs with knock in studs will take a wheel with larger centre hole dia but will still foul later alloy centre on the drive member hth Steveb

Thats lucky , all of the ones I've done have been too bent to get out up the bore Result Steveb

Bent con-rods will only come out from underneath , so its engine out then crank out, it'll be unlikely to have caused any other damage tho hth Steveb

There's no toe in etc on trailer axles , they should be 'straight' , time to pull em off and check at least thats how I've always seen it I often find cracks in trailer axle mount points and also in the lugs on the beam type axles when servicing cheers Steveb

How about Bures? it'll be rock hard but plenty of space cheers Steveb

........not just the highway code but the regs for towing too - 40ft trailers at 70mph?? 10m RIB trailers? Towing is a responsibility , and should be treated as such. Loading of the trailer/caravan is critical and keeping it all within the tow spec for the vehicle will get things off on the right track cheers Steveb

.....sorry trypo error , glad you got sorted Steveb

The slave needs to be mounted with the bleed nipple at the top to allow all the air out of the cyl. Also is the slave adjusted with clearance at pedal rest? hth Steveb

Back on topic....fit a larger dia pipe Nige , more surface area of entry = less air velocity for the same volume of air ..and Miele make super suckers much better than Deadsons cheers Steveb

Hi , is the crank pulley in good condition ? this has a rubber element which is part of the vibe dampening , also did you use the Tdi flywheel? and finally the IP timing is critical and too much advance will increase vibes and diesel knock. My 200 Tdi conversion on my 109 is disco derived incl the Disco engine/chassis mounts - a much better mount system imo and is smooth once warmed up hth Steveb

Yep drill a couple of holes and apply the chisel with No1 LR tool , should split enough to unwind cheers Steveb