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steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. And the bits inside the pump . They do sound terminal when they break , stick a new one on and all will be well cheers Steveb
  2. It should have plenty of spring pressure on the plunger , 300Tdi I assume~? You could drill the rivets and strip it to see if its fixable and if so re-seat with pop rivets cheers Steveb
  3. run an earth from the battery to the starter flange and clean any others fitted - make sure you have at least one from engine to chassis and one from chassis to bulkhead cheers Steveb.
  4. Yep , if you get one bolt started by allowing the pump to rock over at a slight angle then straighten it up to get the second one started then wind them in gentle and even it should seat to the gasket with just the spring pressure of the arm , the bolts are a bit short , hence the rocking to one side edit to add I think the point of contact for the lever is around 11o'clock on the cam Ralph cheers steveb
  5. How new is your fuel filter ? In this cold weather any water in the filter may freeze and partially block it , either that or as you say the lift pump is failing cheers Steveb
  6. I thought the clock stopped with Land Rover about 1970..... steveb
  7. Excellent bit of engineering Mr Z As an apprentice many moons ago I designed and made a load test bed for a 1.5 hp governed 4 stroke engine using a 16ACR Lucas alt , belt driven at around 2:1 alt to engine The load was banks of 5 x 21W bulbs switched by a mech timer switch with all 6 banks on the engine would stall out within 2 min ...How about a smaller alternator to reduce the max load? there are some nice compact 12v alts on the 2 & 3 cyl Kubota plant engines as used in chiller lorrys/mini diggers/wood chippers etc and as with larger alts self contained rect/regs cheers Steveb
  8. We make those rear x-members for Tornado , CNC HD plasma and a couple of press ops , the axle layout is a good solution for underaxle clearance and also lighter than the rover axle assy cheers Steveb
  9. Passion is what it is Bill my world would be a lot less interesting without metal And DD I'm sure you and the rest of us will do this forum justice cheers Steveb
  10. I'm sure the articulation , power distribution and directional stabiltity of this new build forum will be well looked after I for one am enjoying the threads on here , new and old , and Bill , its great to see you around , I love your take on builds The more time I spend on here the more I like the the people on here , both those I know personally and those I know from posts only cheers Steveb
  11. that looks similar to the series LWT under seat 10 gall tank sender , not sure if it matchs dash gauge on the 110 . I did think about drilling and screwing but it would be better to find a replacement outer ring cheers Steveb
  12. Yeah no listing within LR parts , just wondered if anyone had a link thru the classic cars Proper mini's and others from the 60's/70's had the same bayonet ring type cheers Ralph Steve
  13. Anybody know if the fuel sender retainer ring thats welded to the tank is available anywhere? I have a perfectly good tank in the 'shop that's got a rusted out retainer where the sender/pickup bayonet ring locates iirc this style was common across lots of UK made cars in the 70's Seems a shame to skip it as the actual tank is leak free and ok cheers Steveb
  14. cor rivnuts underneath in the crud , really put some thought into that then.... shame there are no nuts and bolts thru the chassis in that area to attach mounting brackets to ....... cheers Steveb
  15. If you are losing all the dash lights on start it suggests a bad connection either at the starter batt +ve which also has the vehicle live feeds or a dodgy/loose earth , or a dead cell in the batt. hth Steveb
  16. oh and get the caliper checked for damage too Steveb
  17. Whereabouts are you ? a decent set of s/h parts and a new Genuine wheel bearing would get you going - a complete s/h swivel assy would be what you need as it'll have wrecked the following: cv joint (maybe) stub axle wheel hub Disc outer drive shaft wheel bearing and associated nuts/lockwasher/ring washer If you are putting new stuff on then both new disc's must be fitted .......and get the other 3 checked properly cheers Steveb
  18. 300 Tdi s are cable driven speedo does it have the original transferbox? - if a Disco one has been fitted and the speedo drive gear not changed it'll under-read miles and speed Also if the rear tbox output shaft nut is not tight the speedo drive gear can slip on the shaft hth Steveb
  19. I have a set of 5 one ton rims - 6.5 x 16 with single 16 bolt beadlocks welded on , stainless steel outer rings that are surplus to requirements pm me if you are interested , the beadlocks make them 8.5 x 16 approx .. cheers Steveb
  20. ...they were made this way in '53 due to a shortage of sheet steel post-war and much better for it too cheers Steveb
  21. thats some interesting data on that spreadsheet Dan , have you looked at Ackermann angles on tractors and commercial grass cutting machinery ? pro-turf care is particularly worth looking at with the No1 requirement being zero slip on tight lock cheers Steve
  22. ...too many sheep I reckon good stuff Rick , its good to be reminded of how to look at things cheers Steveb
  23. .......if its working you will feel several hundred cfm of air coming out the back of it ? of course shredding a newspaper will be more fun cheers Steveb
  24. oops missed that bit ... was the comp test done warm or cold ? Steveb
  25. BSP Engineering in Suffolk are my local top machinists, Stewart ,the boss has been machining for over 30yrs and has a good selection of CNC gear and 3D Mititoyo measuring , others nearby to me , Brafe machinists at Woodbridge and Raiment in Braintree area for spline and keyway specialist work no connection apart from good service mm engineering cheers Steveb
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