muddy

No not particularly bothered about originality, only the block, fuel pump/timing cover and cam are original anyway. I would consider another block howerer having just top hatted and completely rebuilt this one in the last 7 days to get it ready for the run id quite like not to tear it in bits too soon! I don't think id feel too confident in the stitching not just putting the side of the block through. Ultimately I know the block is scrap however unless I trip over one for £50 that's good I'm loathed to throw more time/money into something that ultimately kind of works as it is... also the man who rebuilt the injectors has the 6 cylinder version of the engine looking for a new home....

Good morning, perhaps slightly OT as its on my little tractor but I thought someone here might have a good idea.... I have recently rebuilt the engine (Perkins A3) and whilst I had it down to a bare block I found a previous repair to cracked water jacket behind the fuel pump with some sort of chemical metal. I ground this off so that when I had the block bored for top hat liners it could be welded up properly. Unfortunately during the welding (gas with cast filler) the block pinged and cracked much worse during warm down, ho hum no problem I thought and ground the new weld back cross hatched the block side and skimmed over with chemical metal approx 10mm thick. However upon first start up water began oozing through the repair, I tried a further application of the chemical metal but it has just cracked this also, in fact when the engine is running you can see the block flexing and the crack opening. A pot of ground ginger in the coolant has stopped the leak and I was able to complete a fairly large run with it yesterday but I now need to do a better repair. Initial thoughts are to take the pump off to allow good access, tip the tractor on its side, remove my repair back to the block and pool braze over the top unless anyone has any better ideas? A picture of said machine (front one), because tractors 🙃

you could always run a morse cable from a traditional hand throttle to the actual foot pedal with a small peg for a slide to pick up on.

Depending on your head the new housings have an extra bolt hole to clamp at 5 o clock ish. You will see with the new sensors but the front ones in a 2wd have a rectangular bottom despite being round at the top, meaning if you try and wiggle them to free them they break up......

Brilliant build! please keep sharing. If it is the 651 engine (313/316) I would strongly suggest you carry a fuel filter housing, when the seal lets go it dumps all the coolant out the return from the head and you a pretty much undriveable. A 1/4" drive E10 Torx socket is also a must for those engines I have found.

Just not Lights.......

If Ross has no luck try Fawcett engineering 01535 958717

Perfect thank you.

Had a Ctek Mxs25 for about 7 years now, still does its thing. NOCO/GYS/Ctek are probably all much of a muchness id say it would come down to warranty/price/availability.

Can anyone confirm my suspicions that the defender variants of these gearboxes (including the relevant top housing) are the same length from their bum to the gear-levers. IE fitting the 'wrong' gearbox in the existing tunnel/gearbox/transferbox mount orientation the sticks will still be in the correct place for the tunnel and gator to fit as per factory.

No as I and @miketomcat have said its the later model 200 TDi disco and RRC somewhere around '91-93' Just remember your water drain is doing sweet FA in that position, if you are planning on doing any really wet weather work

I have used the Britpart HD clutches in a few heavily tweaked TDis without issue, and have re fitted them without hesitation, once because I found a broken spring in the drive plate when doing a rear main (40k miles and no sign of anything wrong till I got into it) and once when putting a new gearbox in. Clutchfix,LOF,IRB ect etc seem to have a similar following to Lanogaurd/buzzweld/snakeoil products that explode into popularity claiming to be the next best thing but in reality are probably just as good as what's already available. Its easy to be good when its new.... Before anyone jumps on me yes I have just tarred with one big broad brush but you get my point......

The wing canister is from the later years of discovery and RRC 200 TDi, Uses element ESR1049.

If it helps sway the desicion I can tell you if you open the back door and get 6 people hung on/in the back with a skinny driver and a redline clutch dump you can pull a little wheely as everyone tumbles out the back!

Drill straight through the wall and run it externally In all seriousness I completely get that and at the end of the day you can always sell the compressor should you wish to upgrade.

At the risk of project creep what are your future plans as bigger is always better when it comes to air until you get to screw compressors. What is actually stopping you upping the cable to the garage? adding a larger consumer box to the garage is a reasonably straightforward exercise. A little extra work now may pay dividends.

The M57 is getting very popular (I have one in the yard) and you can get an adaptor plate to bolt to the MT82, however they seem quite revvy but I have not driven one so can't comment... top off road Romania on you tube have them in patrols and everything seems to be done on the limiter. The OM606 is very agricultural in comparison and you could use either the electronic pump or convert to mechanical however I think this would need careful displacement selection and turbo size to get drivability. As with any engine conversion many people are trying to make a 150mph defender and have little mechanical ability in reality and the finishing of the conversion brackets, hoses etc ends up letting the whole job down and I see quite few forsale at ridiculous prices. Whatever you do I think I would be tempted to try and keep the standard gearbox as that saves a lot of interior work. What about a Perkins 4.2 six pot

Indeed, take you length of hose or pipe and make a small slit about 4" from the end you want the liquid to come out, slip the end of the blow gun in so the air flows in the direction of liquid travel and you have a precision hoover.

I would carry on as you are, im sure there will be a spares shop open tomorrow with both a thermostat and cap available, there's a few around Perth showing on google but I don't know how far north you are now.

Bit of rag round the air blower into the tank neck with the bleed screw open should bleed it up, once its bled it won't need the lift pump to move about.

Ovehaul can be done with fairly basic tools but you will need a puller to remover the collar on the output shaft and some long bits of tube for putting seals in, in all honesty its probably quicker to just fit it and try it, plus if you at the stage where you can check the synchros you may aswell just fit new anyway.

Post up a few pictures of what you have but the easiest solution might be to stick with a discovery gearbox and fit the defender top housing and gearsticks to it using a converter, if you can't get a converter you will need the defender selector shaft built into the disco box.

Not wiring

starter solenoid, give it a tap with a screwdriver whilst someone holds the key on