zardos

Ask for proof of posting (this is free to get) so you can get royal mail to investigate the losses and if they did not ask for it, then they have no proof that it was sent. If they have proof and royal mail cannot find it then you probably won't be able to claim on paypal but could get £20 from Royal mail. Note that Royal Mail don't consider it "lost" until 10 working days after due date (so 11 working days for first class)

I used a air powered version some time ago, was happy with hole punching part, but the edge setter did not do a good job from memory it really did not seem have the power on thin sheets even though it had the power to punch through thick sheets with the punch.

I would not worry about the voltage too much as the type of electronics used to convert the 12v to 5V for the usb connection are fairy flexible in input voltage and can usually convert anything from 7v upwards (assuming Nextbase have used the usual method of doing the conversion) I would use the multimeter to check that the bullet connector is getting 12v and then check the the earth point is good.

Was this an official Nextbase hardwire kit or ebay knock off? (the picture does not seem right for an official kit)

If this holder has both fuses in then it won't matter which way around it is plugged in. Editted:- Looking at other hardwire kits this blue connector seem to be a bullet connector not a crimp as looks like in this picture. These instruction are for a crimp. If it is really a bullet connector you can skip the first test and try the probe between the plastic outer of the other side of the bullet and wire. Note a picture of the real installation in the fusebox would help direct where to test and what could possibly be the problem As for tests with a multi meter, first I would have it all plugged in as normal and ignition on and then test for 12v on the fusebox side of the blue connector in your picture (See green arrow in picture below) You should be able to get a multimeter positive probe between the wire and the blue plastic to touch the metal of the crimp connector inside. If your probe is too big, then a metal pin or I use welding wire makes a great extension to stick in this gap. If you have 12v here then the fuse box connector is working and may it is the blue crimp connector is not crimped properly. Then if you do have 12v at this point, this is were it becomes difficult, I would use the pin to spear the positive wire just after the blue connector and check for 12v. This is to check the crimp connector is working. If this second test is working then you probably have a defective voltage dropper (usually near the usb end of the wire there is a little black box which has circuitry to drop the 12v to 5v for the usb input to the camera) Note that when using the fag lighter wire this has it's own dropper

Looks expensive but if that includes gas, rod, metal and electricity it is probably not as expensive as you think compared to doing the same amount of practice at home. But if you just want a "taster" training then if you can not find anybody here then ask the same question on the Welding forum I linked to earlier.

I'm sure that others courses exist. I found that https://www.truro-penwith.ac.uk/ Have the below courses listed in their part time course brochure

You could go on a proper course of course 😉 Based on your location may be https://www.cornwall.ac.uk/cornwallcollege/engineering/welding-basic-to-advanced-british-standard There are probably other places that offer courses like this, a good place to ask is probably on a welding forum like https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

So the most cost effective method for dailysleaze is to just buy one of the 2 that this person is selling then, no need to replicate it.

Is this the right mount on ebay now? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-DEFENDER-300-TDI-AIR-CONDITIONING-MOUNTING-BRACKET-ERR-4975/112542180942

Sand mold and cast a new one (with some machining to clean up faces) Design an alternative? (There are probably a set number of keep features and these could be incorporated in to an alternative design) Alternative mounting of the compressor? (Again there is usually more than one way to skin a cat) But without more context it is difficult to suggest alternatives

I'm not a structural engineer but logic says that by removing the centre joist you would be distributing it's load to the other 2, therefore it would be better to double up the sides in a fashion to retain the structural safety margin the original designer intended. You might want to also double up the cross beams to stop them bending as wood is more flexible when pulled from the side. Also make sure the joins of the cross beams to removed joist don't pull out under tension. You might also want to put in a cross beam in the centre (I don't see one in the pics just some planks that are may be not fixed down) and may be some noggins again to stop flexing as you put new downward load on the joists. Always better to be safe than sorry, you don't want the garage roof collapsing on you and your vehicle.

With the saddle type clamps or the P clips you could get one for the snorkel size and the cage size and join them sideways using one bolt through one of the side clamping bolts

When mounting the water pipes for my rear rad I was amazed at how large you could get various cable and pipe fixings in. If forgot to add something with exhaust u bolts e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Exhaust-Steel-Clamps-U-Bolt-Hex-Auto-Car-Clip-Repair-Pipe-Hose-Aerial

So a big question that could impact the solution a lot is are the snorkel and cage tube running parallel to each other? Or does the solution need to accommodate an angle? My thoughts are some type of P Clip or other pipe or cable bracket or cleat for the snorkel and then another for the cage or weld on mounting point. e.g. https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/rubber-lined-unlined-steel-pipe-brackets-c244/ https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/rubber-lined-unlined-steel-pipe-brackets-c244/ or https://abbeyclamps.co.uk/products/p-clips-saddle-clamps/klamp-works-standard/ or https://www.jointingtech.co.uk/Single-Bolt-Heavy-Duty I've used similar for water hose mounting.

As an alternative, Not Megasquirt but also not 14CUX but there are commercial alternative ECU's that can drive distributor less engines that have suppliers and support in Australia. e.g https://www.linkecu.com https://www.haltech.com/

Propshaft services / bailey morris also do all the parts if you look at their catalog so you could get the part you need and make it yourself.

I've used http://www.propshaft-services.co.uk/ to make custom props in the past (part of http://baileymorris.co.uk and http://baileymorris.co.uk/4x4-extreme-land-rover )

looks like http://www.localtoolsales.com/welding-equipment-plasma-cutters/welding-accessories/spool-guns/CT245-aluminium-spool-gun

So I have a B40Amp in the main fuse board, then in the garage 16A commando plug wired as a ring main to a B32Amp and a B6Amp for lights. These never trip when the 2.2Kw compressor kicks in.

Another options are receiver towbar mount with shackle attachment e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECOVERY-HITCH-TOW-BAR-RECEIVER-TOWBAR-4X4-5T-BOW-SHACKLE-FASTPOST-WARRANTY-/222275871004 Or I have used something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-recovery-Swivel-Shackle-DB1322/321077261238

Or just turn it upside down so the ball is on the bottom?

4 Bolt centre recover point from Terrafirma ? http://www.terrafirma4x4store.co.uk/towing_equipTF750

I've used them a couple of times for non LR parts and there is always a large discount code clearly displayed on their web site or if not you can easily find one with google. But yes these codes are usually only available if you order via the web site, this can be for delivery or for collection next day at their local counter (which is what I did).

Blocking off with a blanking kit might be an MOT fail now (depending on the vehicle)