L19MUD

Forgot to say - last two jobs to sort are to fix the speedo and get the tipper motor rewound so that we can use it in anger!

To finish off the work I did. Post getting the welding done we repainted the bed frame and sides then fitted a shiny new sheet of Ali Work then moved back to the truck with the chassis painting getting finished along with some nice new pressed number plates. I then polished up the cab which made a big difference. We have questioned if we should have sprayed the cab really....but we never intended to go as far as we have! At this point I had the Ant running and driving about but we had a big water leak from somewhere. It turned out to be the rad, the hoses and the water pump. All changed for new and fixed the leak. Access is not great but certainly better than on the modern stuff We were then ready for an MOT...which turned out to be a hassle as so few places do 3 wheel Class 3 MOT's (and even fewer Class 4 3 wheel MOT's as I later found out). The MOT station I found insisted I provided proof of the wieght to prove it was either class 3 (below 450kg unladen) or class 4 above. Was much heavier than expected at 760kg as found out on my mates weighbridge MOT passed with no problems despite me worrying about the brakes. It managed 59% on the service brakes with a pass being 50%, since driving about a bit they have bedded in now are are much more responsive. This took us to an almost complete position of this We decided that some personalised signwriting (put over the Oldham council so as to not lose it) would be a bit of fun and had some stickers made for each of the doors Overall I am really pleased with it. Drives surprisingly well although 35mph is pretty much happy cruising speed. It is still tempting to spray the cab but am now onto other projects so it will have to wait.

Totally missed this somehow - the pictures are not working for me and the link is now not working. What was the condition and price out of interest please? Also reminds me I really need to update this thread!

They should stay there as a historic fault - the better tools tend to show you historic/intermittent/permanent faults

my exact experience to date!!

That is a bit of a shocker tbh! The engine management codes are the only ones that should be able to be found on all diagnostics

I have a launch X431 Pad II - has been great on JLR/BMW/Audi etc but where it does fall down a bit is the Korean stuff. Fairly dead Hyundai i800 that I am struggling to get any useful data out of

This reminds me to push the pistons out on the 110 before I start disconnecting brake pipes. Was a nightmare on the 90 - I had to resort to welding bolts to them!!

We have the Cadac Carri chef 2 which is bigger and obviously takes up a bit more space. Takes 2 mins to assemble and is very flexible with the different cooking grills. It cooks really evenly - much better than my expensive Outback BBQ which is annoying!! We run it from a standard butane bottle with regulator, think it is a 7kg bottle. We have recently been on a trip with 15 people doing bacon rolls in the morning and then a BBQ at night each day for everyone and it was brilliant. We have even bought the pizza stone for it and cooked perfect pizza for a group of 6.

You laugh but I don't know why you would chose to fit a standard bulb item to anything now if there is a decent LED alternative? I fitted the smoked version of these to my 90, both the amber version below and the smoked version look identical to the standard version, fit the same hole and have the same connector. Last years longer, are brighter and therefore more visible. Seems a no brainer to me! https://bearmach.com/product/side-markers-ellilism/side-repeater-assembly-in-amber-led-suitable-for-defender-discovery-2-and-freelander-1-vehicles-only-use-in-pairs-xgb000030led/XGB000030LED

I changed the thermostat in my old V8 L322 and the issue did not reoccur. I am not sure how much a genuine or OEM one is? I would not advise running without one, they are designed to run at a set temperature and will be more efficient when doing so Also - welcome to the forum!

Mine is a very early 1996 E39 535i sport with factory fit AC Schnitzer bodykit. I am the third owner, the first having it for 18 months, the second until 12 years ago when I bought it. Not been on the road for 5 years now. Will find a picture!

Battery one

The 1.6 Supercharged is terrible on fuel - Never managed more than around 30 mpg on a run and way less on country lanes and around town. In fact I suspect on average the TD5 will be better. My 535i E39 is better on fuel than a 1.6 supercharged Mini in fact!

I have some of that kicking about left over from my rebuild. I will give that a go when I pull the T box later in the year. Thanks It is only a problem once or twice a year when doing a really long trip and then only if it is hot but it did really get unbearable in there

Did anyone ever progress with this? I have just completed a 330 mile run back from Devon to Suffolk in my 200tdi 90 and the gearbox got really hot. The long climbs out of Devon towing the camping trailer and 30 degree heat resulted in the temperature on the floor of the cab coming from the gearbox getting close to unbearable before there was a downpoor in Essex which cooled things down nicely. I have a wright off road floor mat with sound deadening underneath that which I think has helped. Note I am not talking about what the Lt77 can cope with, but rather what is comfortable for the driver and passenger! I am running ATF and have a nice smooth gearchange both cold and hot Adding a finned transfer case seems like a good idea to take the heat out of the combined T box and gearbox unit so I will do that when I rebuild the T Box but are there any other ideas to cut in cab temperatures?

From speaking to a mate who has done a few now - 4 hours off and 4 hours on once you know what you are doing. He said it took double that the first time he did one

The bulbs you can fit are very different to the layout of the proper LED lights though. They are really not very expensive and are fit and forget so I dont think it is worth putting LED bulbs in the standard lights

Only last weekend!

There is also a video of Jim Marsden losing it in his Ultra4 car into the bales and then just carrying on. I don't think the Defender would have coped with that crash....also it would probably have not crashed in the first place!

That should work fine. Just make sure you connect it up the right way round!

Once you have the kit working it is addictive! Best piece of advice I can offer is that it works 'line of sight' so you will need to get an annode inside the cistern being careful it does not touch

Have you tried electrolysis?

Funnily enough I did this yesterday. I only have half a Series 3 as it is my camping trailer. I always felt that the lights were quite dull on it despite having new lenses and was worried they could not be seen very well in sunlight. New LED units fitted and they make a huge difference and really don't look that different to the standard units. I just fitted bullet connectors to the new units

wonder if that ever came to anything?