L19MUD

My thoughts exactly!! A TDV8 in a Defender would be great, putting aside the electronics I would imagine the physical size could be an issue? Is there space between the chassis rails? The TDV8 is also very tall which is overcome in a RR by bolting the diff to the side of the sump with the driveshaft running through the middle of the sump, you won't be able to do that with a beam axle Defender

Agreed. I always loved the Billing show over the others but since it has been split there are now two shows that don't add up to the original one

Fair point! Yes it is awesome

I can't comment on the seam sealer but that is the exact order I would do it in

and in addition to this buy a couple of those plastic motorhome levelling chocks, normally all that is needed to get it level enough to not cause an issue. They are also cheap, light and very unlikely to go wrong! https://www.leisureoutlet.com/levellers-and-chocks/levelling-systems-and-jacks/caravans-and-motorhomes/8968-milenco-triple-level-set?surface=active&gclid=CjwKCAjwrPCGBhALEiwAUl9X05GRmVefQhde7Mu1IDQDuK4cJKoDiBn_My9eDpD-p4HqGRzaJBlA0hoCIWAQAvD_BwE

Not bought a ticket yet but we plan to camp for the whole weekend. I have really missed the shows too

Sadly I think you may be on to something here. Not heard of TDV8s skipping chains though but it is certainly possible

This is how I did it on my 90 when I fitted a new chassis

EGR's on my 2010MY 3.6 blanked for the last 2 years/15k miles no bad effects and no fault codes

Exactly this! Day to day mine is used for muddy dog walks, then it is put to work when I tow the car/plant trailer but then does the most miles with the camping trailer behind it, kayaks on the roof and bikes on the back! It seems new Defender owners have exactly the same uses in mind as the majority of the old Defender owners

Good to see them both being used properly too!

it is also really difficult to get a bike into most caravans without taking a wheel off

I had this on a 300tdi. All I did was repeatedly start it over a few days for a few seconds (it ran flat out!) after 10-15 times it freed itself off and has been perfect ever since

Might need to trim the bottom of the inner door the mechanism bolts to and then make a small bracket to reattach the bolt hole you lose. The hole spacing to bolt them in is identical to the manual winders. I put some on my 200TDI and wish I had done it years ago!!! The kits are actually just genuine mechanisms plus the switches/relays. If you look at my build thread I showed what I had to do

I fitted Polybush red on my 90 when I first had it, when I came to do my rebuild around 90k miles later all the bushes were still in excellent condition. I changed them all for brand new Polybush red again and figured I would be good for the next 100k miles The only ones I replaced in that time before the rebuild were the panhard rod bushes

Yes I think so

That sounds like a plan!

Does that help?

Great result!

Just seen this and I would agree that EGR's are well worth a look. Scarily the head of the valve can detach from the stem which means the stem will move about freely and give you no EGR fault code (ECU thinks it is operating) whilst it is actually letting as much exhaust gas as possible through that bank. From where you are getting the EGRs out is quite straightforward job - you can blank them on the 3.6 without the EML coming on or showing any codes You are correct that on a 3.6 that the intake is totally separate for each bank after the air filter. On a 4.4 there are two filters so they are separate from the start

Agreed, all sensible advice. If only we were allowed to leave the country!!

What is the benefit to this? Is there a bigger window aperture? Looks very fragile to me and I'm not sure of the benefit? Not trying to be negative but not sure of the selling point

Can do a great job like this with flap discs instead of grinding discs

All of that would make an excellent start point for someone to get doors/bulkhead restored and ready to swap over prior to a project!!

But they look so good! 😀