02GF74

I';m just a whacky guy I guess. Maybe having a v8 has something to do with it...... so the speedo driven end on early RR geaarbox is same as series? If so, the RR speedo cable should do it. I'm on 235/85s so it may be still wrong but close to what it is now.

I want to fit RR speedo to take into account RR diffs. currently I have what a bleieve to be LWB speedo with longer cable (LWT had speedo in centre but I moved speedo behind steering wheel). This cable/speedo is a clip on. My oringal cable, shorter, had a screw on end and I need a longer version of this for the RR speedo. So what cable do I need? - will S3 will be long enough with the right ending?

the slot looks a bit chewed up. try to improve it by using a small punch to hammer it back into shape and/or a dremel to cut it a bit deeper. then as have been said, use an impact driver* set in undo mode and a big hammer. * not one from machione mart that lasted about 2 whacks

tad rusty!?!?!?! that is positively holey!!! I vote for sankey too; follows being a LR like a good doggie.

HFH you're new here aren't you? someone will direct you to the post in question (warning: make sure you have been to the toilet before you start reading).

limescale deposit? where does that come from? answer: tap water. so isn't it easier/better(?) to use water that does not suffer from this problem - e.g. rain water collected in a bucket or de-ionised water? (I use the latter in my cooling systems, from Wilkinsons)

HFH is yer man for all waxoyl cat related queries.

Did the car have a screen fitted? Quite a lot of the lotus 7 replica & kit cars have no windscreen which reduces drag but has the disadvantage that your eyes are very vulnerable to road debris; also if you wear spectacles, driving over 25 mph will tend to make them water. So the solution is a pair of googles or a helmet; a helmet with a opaque visor allows you to drive through speed cameras without being recognied.

Did the car have a screen fitted? Quite a lot of the lotus 7 replica & kit cars have no windscreen which reduces drag but has the disadvantage that your eyes are very vulnerable to road debris; also if you wear spectacles, driving over 25 mph will tend to make them water. So the solution is a pair of googles or a helmet; a helmet with an opaque visor allows you to drive at excessive speed past speed cameras without being recognised.

let us know how you get on with this - I was told that with aluminium alloy heads the matal 'smears' as you press the guide out so instead the guides are bored to fit an insert.

... as long as it is not this year's summer

some useful info. CFS

hey, LML, if you are goimng top be a pedant, get it right - fat wire goes to starter motor solenoid

good thread; don;t want to interfer but someone was aksing about opeing the heads and I happen to have some photos - delete as necessary. as said, lay the gasket on top of the port, mark and grind away. once done, you can see the difference between the ports how they left the factory (right)and after grinding (on left) . One thing not mention in the post is that there must be a gap between the woodruff key in the camshaft ands the slot in the gear wheel - this is to allow for oil to get to the timing gear - now it may be that the hole drilled in the block serve the same purpose. If the gap it too small, the key needs to be filed down - the haynes book tells you all about it.

diesel jim is right; but if you still want to call it a tax, then remember it is a voluntary tax; you can choose not to pay it., now where the stirring icon

wot is wrong with bonnet vents? If done tastefully, then can llok quite fetching, not that I am biased in any way. If you are not revving too high, then you can fit a smaller diameter water pump pulley - again like I done - to qicken water flow (noone dare mention cavitation ) I have a 15 inch fan in front and fitted a second msaller 12 inch fan behind raditaor and thae smaller fans does help shift hot air via the vents. I also have oil coler but oil temp gauge, fitted to sump, has never gone much above 90 degrees - dunno if it is telling the truth though.

POR 15 is supposed to be good on rusty metal. don;t use it on new metal since it will not key - needs theroughness/.rust - and flake off.

dunno what you mean by "early" .... but tractel are the trifor people now. the new winches are more square and silver, earlier ones were curvier and metallic blue although I am not sure that is a definitive identification method. I have a manual for the one shown below, gotten from tractel - if you phone them, they are (or were to me) most helpful. I can scan the manaul if you are still stuck. (sic)

right, to clarify any confusion my post seemed to have caused. front of engine is where the crank pulley is. left and right are as viewed from flywheel. (this covers transverse, mid & rear engined vehicles.) Source: haynes manuals and LR V8 overhaul manual.

STOP IT ya dirty old man, that has got me all excited that has .

I'm sure all know what a LWT looks like but would it help to post a photo of it? I was parked next to it on the LWT OC stand last year; have photo to prove it.

Sony camera. ignore them, the.mpg is the video file.

no I am not sure. All I know is that I took senders off my P6 cover and tried to fit them into the ports shown on the SD1 cover above. One would fit in one but not the other implying the ports are tapped to different threads. Measuring the senders' diameter and thread count seemed to show them to be as stated above. I vaguelly recollect buying RR pressure switch from paddocks that did not fit so had to buy one from local car part place. I would be surprised if the threads are cast but would guess they are tapped for a particular application; a lot of oil fittings in UK in olden days used BSP and I have seen a few senders using NPTF so I did not think the mix of thread was unusual.

SD1 timing cover. 1. 1/4 BSP (parallel) 2. 1/4 NPTF (tapered) 3. not sure but measured to be 9/16 UNF (parallel).

Jaffa cakes would be better, preferably with the orangey bit in the middle. 3300/bhp ton - go back to start of the thread and read it as if you were SimonX and the X-eng brake was your little baby. Like a few others, I have nbever bought anythig from SR namely becasue I do not need any of their stuff but the customer service and business practise is a recurring theme.