BogMonster

Yes and no - Yes I do know and no it isn't the same though it is fundamentally the same ZF 4HP22 box, the settings are a bit different The torque converter is different for a start (different stall speed), and I am virtually certain that the shift points are different as well to suit the different characteristics of a diesel engine, though having driven a 300Tdi auto with the "proper" gearbox in I can't see how it could be any worse There may also be other differences, I daresay you could make one fit t'other but how well it would work I don't know. Then again I read somewhere that the change points AND the TC stall are at lower engine rpm on the V8 box and I would say that both of those things are desirable on a diesel as the Tdi auto just seems to be all revs to me, so maybe it would be an improvement Have a word with Ashcrofts would be my advice...

Remember a 90 is actually 92.9 so by leaving it on the Discovery chassis you are only gaining seven inches. I get emails every day that promise that

The Genuine ones are pretty good... and you'll need to take the carpets out and dry them for at least 24hrs to get them properly dry.

Ah well now if he had filled in his profile...

The classic mistake is when somebody puts the wheel boxes on 180 deg out, and then the wipers when fitted proceed to wipe the air vent flaps and then attempt to wipe their way through the bonnet, which doesn't work all that well

"Well handling" says the man whose avatar is a Freelander parked in a ditch

why not try and find something with a slightly bigger bung and tap a new thread in to it? you would have to take it off to do this though otherwise would have a sump full of swarf which would not be good otherwise fit a new/good 2nd hand one, not worth the risk of bodging it, too much at stake

OK, have a slight obstacle... identifying which of the (many) cr&p N-D starters the Td5 have.... The Td5 one has the following label on it, new Genuine one we have in stock: ROVER NAD100240 228000-7220 12V DENSO 02G10 which doesn't immediately tally with any of the info from the US supplier as to motor type I have emailed the guy to see if he knows from the above info but does anybody else by some miracle have more info on the Td5 starter? The NAD100240 is the LR part number, correct.

I'm looking for a UK supplier ATM, will post up the result (if any)

Cheers Matt - anybody know of a place in the UK doing these? Importing from the US is a PITFA (if you think there is a problem with trying to get the average American to point out the UK on a map, try getting them to point out the Falklands...) but with the number we get through it is probably worthwhile if I order 50 sets or something. I'll look in to it

Maybe! My Discovery has 255/70R16 BFG AT's fitted. No rubbing, no problems, and it JUST fits on the spare wheel carrier. I know of two vehicles that have 265/75R16 fitted, the spare def doesn't fit on the carrier (though somebody - Devon 4x4 I think - do a raised design of carrier that will fit up to 35 inch tyres) and I think they had to do some alterations at the front of the front wheelarch to accommodate these, and I think also raised the suspension a bit though whether that was necessary or just an extra mod I'm not sure. I don't think 265/70R16 will fit on the carrier as the moulding dimples in mine literally brush the bumper - when I put the spare wheel on the back door I can just sit it on the bumper and it is the right height for the studs, which is very handy but you wouldn't get anything bigger on. It probably depends on the actual size of the Coopers "in the flesh", as I am sure you know, the "same size" tyre can be quite different between different manufacturers! I suspect you will find they rub "a bit" but whether it will be enough to cause bother I don't know. I would probably stick with 255/70R16 if I were you, I run BFG AT in this size and the new General Grabber AT2 is also available in this size which is probably what I'll get next time around.

Very true

Kes86 when I did this on my old one I got a spare fog light switch for the LH side of the speedo binnacle and used that to control the relay switching the lights. This is what the genuine LR spotlight wiring kits do as well. I have the same type of switch to go in my Discovery 2, and it has only been waiting four and a half years to be done - I still take the fuse out in the summer time and put it back in the winter time - ho hum Round Tuit job

really?

If you find anybody selling them ready made please let me know! We repair loads of them at work, the contacts burn out probably the same as yours have. The blokes at work pull the solenoid to bits and make up new contacts out of offcuts of thick copper earth strap. Originally did it because we needed a vehicle back on the road urgently and had no starter motors in stock, but we now do it on any that fail because its a lot cheaper than a new starter motor There must be a market for somebody to sell solenoid overhaul kits ready-made... Td5 starter motors are cr&p and they are always going wrong! LR don't even supply the solenoid as a spare, never mind the contacts, you have to buy the whole motor. With older Td5s around somebody is bound to pick up on this opportunity before long but I haven't found them yet...

Something is supposed to light up, so perhaps the diff lock switch is knackered, or maybe the bulb is blown.

Difflock should be the same as normal, manually selected on the transfer lever, unless a viscous transfer box or something else completely non standard has been fitted.

Got a photo of what we are talking about?

Seen one like that a few years ago - would cut out and not restart for about 1 min - and it was the ECU. Opened the ECU up and stuff was all melted inside, new ECU fixed it.

I'd like to see a court impose a £700,000 fine for an accident! Proof beyond reasonable doubt is the key Anyway, so far the summer here has been cr&p so we need some more global warming

Is that a new product? other possibilities are too dubious to mention on this forum

I think the "whoops I loosened the wrong pipe" technique is probably the best

And while it has never happened to me, I can vouch from speaking to those less fortunate that you really do NOT want a wheel bearing to seize up at high speed, life gets Very Interesting Very Quickly and the first word immediately following the onset of the incident usually begins with F or S mmgemini's technique is probably regarded as overkill but I bet he's never had a bearing seize up

I reckon on getting mine done about every 2 years or so on the 90 because it is used off road and through water etc, and experience so far has shown that there is usually one with a teeny bit of water ingress past the seal. Bit of grease all round and four new hub seals is a modest and IMHO wise investment for peace of mind if you regularly venture off into the middle of nowhere with no recovery service available, and a damn site easier to have it done in the workshop than trying to change a bearing shell friction welded to the stub axle in the middle of nowhere We do all new Defenders at work either on the PDI or on the 1000 mile service and never ever see any bearing problems during the warranty period, which wasn't the case when we didn't do that! It was not uncommon to find red rust under the drive member cap on a 3/4 year old vehicle. Any subsequent failures now are only ever due to water ingress which is why I have mine done every so often - if the vehicle is only used on road or not in deep water, then it is probably a "do once and forget about it" job. Its a bit like the decision about whether you replace suspension bushes as they wear, or whether you bite the bullet and do the whole lot at once so you can forget about them for a couple of years. I do the latter because I like preventative maintenance. Wheel bearings inevitably break when you need to use the vehicle, a bit like the gas always runs out when you are using the oven (funny thing that). If I bought a vehicle more than about 4 years old it would be on the "to do" list along with the timing belt and checking the mainshaft.

Anybody?