Cluaran Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 Hello Gentlemen, The rear quarter of my 1999 110 TD5 was rotten so I cut it off and welded on a new one. Prior to the cutting and welding I had removed the wiring bundle from inside the right hand chassis rail for protection by pulling it through from front to rear. But stupidly I then removed the rope I had pulled through with it. I now have to find a way to pull the cabling back through the chassis. So far I've been trying to feed in form the front firstly soft and then high tensile fencing wire with small loops on the end in an effort to reach the rear so that I can attach a rope and then pull the cabling through. But I keep hitting internal obstructions (plus a heap of rust... more welding to come...) which I can't seem to get past. I have yet to try feeding from the rear to the front over the main bend (which I'm about to have a go at) but I wondered if anyone has experience of this? Perhaps the things sparkies use to feed wires through house walls/floors? Or even some means of leaving the cabling outside of the chassis... if advisable? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 Screwfix sell a protective flexible ducting that you can pass wires through. I would be tempted to see about something like that and secure it on top of the chassis leg perhaps? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 Yep I just p-clipped mine to the top of the chassis rail with tek-screws. In a conduit if you wish, but the Td5 loom already has a protective sleeve and it’s pretty well protected on the top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Cluaran said: Perhaps the things sparkies use to feed wires through house walls/floors? This is how I did it on my 90 when I fitted a new chassis 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 I used the electrician pull rod things too. I bought a set in Aldi years ago and have used them in plenty of diy electrical stuff as well as during the chassis swap. I also left a length of baler bind in the chassis ‘just in case’. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 2 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: Yep I just p-clipped mine to the top of the chassis rail with tek-screws. In a conduit if you wish, but the Td5 loom already has a protective sleeve and it’s pretty well protected on the top. This is what I did on my rewiring project. I also have full access to the loom if I need it at any point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 I have used flexible curtain wire - the stuff that looks a bit like the outside of a Bowden cable? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toenden Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 I have used a vacumcleaner and a thin piece of string to make a "pull wire" before with luck 🙂 /mads 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 Welding wire .. coat hangers …. Fishing rods Anything long and bendy, but with some rigidity, seems to have been employed by someone at some point! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 When I fitted a new harness into my new chassis last year I found my electricians draw-tape was fine at getting from one end to the other but being so thin it found its way along the bottom of the chassis under the reinforcing tubes which didn't have sufficient gap for the harness itself. I found the perfect solution was some 1mm or 1.5mm T&E bent over at the end into a (flattish) loop. It was rigid enough to push but the loop made it ride over any obstructions only going through gaps that the harness could also go though. 5-minutes and the job was finished. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 ^^^ this! It’s a good point and had forgotten about them. A right pain IIRC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 I just ran mine along the top of the chassis longitudinal when I rechassised mine. Easy peasy. Mo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cluaran Posted June 24, 2021 Author Share Posted June 24, 2021 Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. It never ceases to amaze me how helpful people on this forum are! Thanks for sharing your ideas and experience. The idea of clipping the cabling to the top of the chassis for ease of access is extremely appealing. The weekend approaches... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat2495 Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 (edited) I fed mine through in the end for the 90, as the chassis loom seems to be the same whether it is on a 90 or a 110, and I wasn't happy with how much spare I had to hide somewhere. I used fencing wire, fed from the front, with a hook shape on the front end about 1" across to smooth it over the rougher bits. The only section I had a problem with was the reinforcing plates around the gearbox cross-member mounting holes. Turns out the pull wire will go under the crush plates, but the connector on the wiring loom would not...got a bit grumpy at that point, but got there in the end. on the 110 I just put it in some convoluted tubing, and clipped to the top of the chassis rail. Edited June 24, 2021 by mat2495 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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