oneandtwo

Yes, it is DIY’able. I’ve done quite a couple more since I posted a few months ago. All needed the shafts chromed and regroups, and shaft needle bearings. Two needed new worm/valve assemblies and bearings too due to pitting, but for approx £200 in parts you end up with essentially a brand new box.

I’m still not convinced by rebuilt boxes. To do it properly you need to chrome plate the shaft (£45), replace all shaft bearings (£35) replace the seals (£17) and replace the worm bearings (£40). That’s £137 in parts to do what I regard to be the bare minimum, and that’s also before having to potentially replace the worm unit which more often than not is pitted, costing another £75.

I replaced mine with Saintgobain Tygon hose three years ago and still perfect. Everything else I’ve tried over the past twenty plus years has failed, be it various types of rubber, braided rubber (usually the worst) or plastic / nylon

Black bag end slips into U shaped receiver and held with the strap on bulkhead. The base plate goes in centre of bulkhead on bracket with foam pads on and held with big rubber O ring which hooks over it.

As above use the Td5 rubber bulkhead / footwell sound deadening. On a 300tdi you will have to cut a square out to accommodate the bonnet release bracket, and space the fuse box mounting out on two of the same washers as found lifting the seat runners off the seatbox (this is what LR did on the Td5).

Another boat launcher - how’s this for epic chassis rot… especially the diff pan inspection windows !!

It rotted due to the amount of damp mud trapped in the small gap between the shock mount and the chassis.

Most likely a disco transfer box fitted. If a disco gearbox is fitted the gearstick comes up through the middle seat!

One of the 90’s I had on a galvanised chassis had rusted badly behind the bolt on rear shock absorber mounts, I’d forgotten about that one! Not one that I built, I always spray wax oil /grease behind them.

I am on my thirteenth Land Rover with galvanised chassis (might be a record?!) have had two early galvanised chassis that were fitted in the early 1990’s which rusted. One was an 88” which rusted on the fuel tank outrigger where mud and damp had been trapped between the tank and outrigger. All the galvanising had flaked off, I needled gunned it and painted it with galvafroid. The second was a 109 which similar had happened. The insides of the chassis rails were fine.

I would be fitting a pair of LR072976 / LR072977 asap!

If being used regularly surely the spin on conversion using a 2.5NA filter housing is worth fitting?

Paul, unrelated but can you make me the adaptor loom from bulkhead wiring loom to chassis loom to enable the rear speakers on my Puma?

Massive improvement front and rear on a 90. I drove a non ARB equipped 90 the other day and it was like a jelly on wheels.

George, they do date from the series era and were fitted as standard to Lightweights from 1968 onwards and many Military spec series3 109’s - I have owned plenty with them! Before the late 60’s they had D rings as shown above on the rear.

I bought a Nanocom evolution years ago for Td5 defender which had disco Td5 included with it from what I remember. When I upgraded to a Puma it wasn’t very expensive to add the Puma module. I hadn’t used it for years but had to update it last month to reset the steering wheel angle sensor on a 2015 Puma and it all worked fine still and did it’s job.

I doing 160 miles from lands end to Taunton most weeks a few years ago in my old 300tdi 90, the floor and tunnel were incredibly hot during the summer - just fitting the Rocky Mountain finned lt230 sump made a massive improvement to the seatbox / tunnel far more than I expected it to. I may take the TIG welder to a new one to make it fit my Puma.

I have a brand new genuine Land Rover 2016 manufactured td5 bulkhead I have no use for now, was purchased for my parents Td5 and saved for the future but they upgraded to a Puma CSW shortly after purchase. I would sell on for the same sort of money being asked for the pattern bulkheads, but would have to be collected from Cornwall

A lesson on door and panel alignment wouldn’t go amiss.

They are a straight thread, the same as the old 2286 sump plugs from memory.

@EscapeI used to have a Lotus Esprit S1 which only had a spare front wheel, but the back wheels were a much larger diameter and completely different offset, I never had a puncture but always wondered what to do if it had a rear puncture.

I only have one as a 90 hardtop looks wrong without one in the rear door!

Late 2A’s that I have owned have had Irvin Parachute company seatbelts

I used brushable tetrosyl and similar specific seam sellers ten or so years ago and wasn’t that impressed with it, seemed to shrink over time. Best thing I have found is Soudal Carbond, not sold as. Assam sealer as such but is excellent - I have done a number of bulkhead with this now with no issues and completely overpaintable.

If you look in the workshop manual there is a table of torque settings for generic bolts which do not have a specific torque. M10 is 45nm