teabag

OP posted on 11th December, now the 21st so a bit late don't u think, it would have been sorted by now?

Will be a bit of a task even if the main wiring loom is in place. Better it install an aftermarket voltage censoring alarm/ immobilising security system interfaced with your existing remote central locking. Locking sets the security system automatically.

Well done...

And the alarm activating when unlocking is as it should be, so normal.

Any door latch is adjustable even the boot door and glass Tyre squeal, maybe the rubber is as old or nearly as old as the vehicle, if not budget tyres and the wrong pressure. Fuel pumps are not silent they have moving parts. Tyres fitting correctly will depend on the width of the wheel which u don't say but 7J will be ok.

I was surprised at 43,500 miles when the bearing failed in my water pump, OEM replacement £52 inc p&p.

Why would u wish to know when the water pump was last replaced it maybe never... a pump could last the life of the engine, there's only three issues you could have with a pump, which would require a replacement, leaking coolant via the shaft seal, a failed bearing or broken/detached impeller and any of the three you who'd know about. As for a manufacture of pumps, as LR use a few suppliers for their parts I'd go for a pump that has original equipment manufacturer OEM in its description, not a pattern part.

As above the crash inertia sensor has tripped by the bump u had, it's a safety feature incorporated in your security system, if your doors had be locked they would have unlocked also, it does not cut off the fuel supply, that's a separate item. Why not read the owners handbook all the info is there.

Ok why have u a problem with your fob? Setting the alarm with the fob but then the alarm randomly activating but not when using the key is a sign that interior ultra sonic movement sensor is faulty, locking with the key isolates the sensor.Unlocking with the key will activate the alarm as u have central locking. All the info is in the owners handbook. It is possible u can remove the fob but u will lose the remote central locking and immobiliser, also a bit of additional wiring required. If the fob is iffy then Remotekey will do a reverb for u.

Hi Jack I'm wondering how u got on with your issue as I'm now having the same problem with my disco as u had, "but with the ignition off i should be reading zero volts at the - ignition coil side with the battery + on the other side of the voltmeter but i get 12..... can any body suggest why this is? ive double and triple checked the wiring and cant seem to find where im going wrong. i have a good earth from back of passenger side of block to chassis and front pssngr side to chassis" So, No spark from the coil but Rave tests other as u found above are ok, resistances from coil and dizzy are also ok also, so any help u can give.... Thank you Peter

UK spec ? 1. Starter relay is in the drivers footwell and the colour was yellow when your disco left the factory, it's on the bottom row of 3 relays in the centre. 2. No.

Easy to check press the MODE button until CD is shown in the display or look in the user handbook for your unit.

As stated in other threads...It is positioned above the head lining between the sunroof (if u have one) and the tailgate door, after removing the sunroof trim and pulling down the lining slightly the receiver can be seen.

Has your head unit the facility to control a multi CD player, it depends on the make and model of head unit. There's nothing to stop you fitting an aftermarket head unit, just check the units spec to see if it will interface with the steering wheel controls, if it dose then you will also require the additional patch lead to interface the two.

Idle control valve sticking, base idle requires resetting, ignition timing incorrect, air leaks, loose vacuum hoses and there's more that I can't think of at the moment

Carbs or EFi 3.5 or 3.9???? 3.9 it's 665 to 735 according to the workshop manual which is available to download.

Standard? If it's a leather covered steering wheel as fitted to a 300 ES then it's 38.5cm (385mm)

As said the speedo transducer.. signals the engine efi ecu and also cruise control when fitted.

What is there to guess? with a post that states stepper motor. It must be a disco with a 3.9 engine so 1995MY onwards.

CC is completely independant in a D1 with is electric vacuum pump positioned in the engine bay below the jack location. .

"If hoses or inlet manifold nipples haven't been plugged it would" Errrrr AGAIN... the Cruise Control System has nothing to do with the idle.

Cru It has nothing with the idle speed any way.

Do the doors lock/unlock when you push down ot pull up the door pin. The CL is part of the alarm ECU which have been known to go faulty, it can be found at the side of the glove box. I understand there are two switches in the door one CL the other Alarm.

There's the difference, removing air after replacing brake parts, U have to keep an eye on the tube until the last air bubble is expelled so a "working" eezebleed could be helpful there, or just replacing the fluid as I was doing, U only have to check that the fluid is flowing clear in to the jam jar now and again.

I've only tried to use it once, that was three years ago and the cap popped of releasing fluid all over the place, going by the instructions I was using 20psi I now understand that it would have been better if I had used 10psi. And then getting the spare wheel off, lowering the pressure, pumping it back up and refitting, bad enough having to take the back wheels off to get to the bleed nipples. None of that mucking about with a spare wheel with my one man kit, all I have to do is pump the pedal and keep an eye on the fluid level. Every one to their own. its old school for me every time with my discos brakes