teabag

Also a good idea to state what model, year and spec of disco u have. I assume its a 200 series tdi If so, dont take any notice of the fuel cut-off posts... you dont have one, it's only the petrol engine D1s that do.

You may have activated the crash inertia sensor, which will operate the hazards and unlock the doors, if they are locked. Switching off-on-off the ignition to reset, unless it was the alarm and you had a sounder operating as well, then if so u have a problem.. The info is in the owners handbook. More info on what's wrong with your heater required, how many do you have ? as u say "heaters in the cab do not work"

To answer your question, yes on some 95 MY discos and all 96 & 97MY. It appears that you may have retro fitted lenses from the above models, if so when wired correctly the only relay required will be the flasher relay to suit the increased load. As for feeds they may already be in the wiring harnes, if not then u will have to pick up the supplies from the existing lamps.

Do a Google search and It will appear not. John Craddock states it's an OEM spec item so why worry. http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-discovery/discovery-2/parts/engine/da1127-td5-oil-cooler-repair-kit-oem-spec-and-not-the-casting-which-normally-is-perfectly-serviceable-and-44-includes-all-hardware-required-part-of-p.html

The hart of most of your electrical systems, as your a D2 owner and therefore know more about it and it's functions than i would, so u will call it by it by its correct term BCU (body control unit) which to me is a module or an electrical control unit which the D1s have a few of.

It wouldn't, as on/off signal to the two relays is given by your BCM, that is where the trouble 'may' lie

Bath silicone won't stick to the sunroof plastic or the paint work so will just rub/peel off, Tiger seal or similar is the stuff to use.

Two button system is compleatly different, the alarm, locking and immobiliser. You will need more than just the ecu.

The flasher unit stays the same but u will need additional resistors for the front and rear LED bulbs, these are sold on ebay. The light may not be as bright, as the amber lens is a filter for for the light wavelength of the LED, U may find the orange LEDs a bit better, that is what I use in my repeaters in place of the 5w bulbs. I suggest you try a single LED bulb first as the manufacturing quality is variable.

No it's not normal. Does the ABS work, and have u checked the main fuses in the engine bay fuse box ??

Yes RemoteKey supply other single button fobs that will work with your system.

Well when I replace my head unit a few years ago i noted the colour of the wires i required on a post-it, so it maybe of use 2u. Just check with your meter anyway simple to do... if you don't require the amp it's just three feeds/wires required + an earth. purple permanent head unit live green/orange head unit ignition switched live red/brown head unit lights blue/yellow amp switching live yellow/orange amp live

Use it, or loose it applies to lots of things

Correct, one ISO block is the permanant and switch 12v supply for the head unit plus the same output power supplies to the bass amp in the tailgate, the block with the red & black is the audio to the bass amp. The other ISO block is loudspeakers only. That just leaves the antenna lead and data lead to the multi CD player.

I had a pump stop spinning once so i removed it and turned the impeller to clear the blockage and then refitted the pump and it worked from then on. When you have access to the pumps you will then be able to test if the 12v supply is reaching the pump. Could well be the staik, you will have to test it with a meter.

I've has same problem with both my LRs. You just have to make sure the wiring at the rear is tidy, and lose not bunched and blocking the unit going in, trying pulling the wiring from the rear of the head units housing at the same time you push the unit inplace, any surplus witre being pushed behind the dash. That's assuming you have a standard DIN head unit and similar to the one u removed and therefore it's just the wiring that's stopping it being fitted. Although I have a later disco I still had a birds nest to put away, but managed it by pushing the wires to the back and sides

Ok had a look in my sales brochure for 1997-98MY disco (which I should have done in the first place) the 3 door and the base 5 door model are 5 seaters with the option of being a 7 seater, all the rest are are 7 seaters.

I didn't want 7 seats with my 97 model but had to have them. There was no option in 1997-98 with the D1 they all had 7 seats unless it was a van.

Try this: http://www.landy.pl/LandRoverDiscoveryWorkshop1995-1996.pdf

Get your self a Haynes mantenance manual, that will tell you what and where for what ever model of disco and what ever engine you have.

As long as as your new DAB unit has a preamplified output to feed an audio signal to the boot door bass loudspeaker you will be ok. You may have a few wires to put away but its do able. Moden head untis even non DAB are so much better than the standard LR unit fitted back in 1997.

+1 Well done thanks.

MWC5144....... and the long link rod is MWC5150

Oh Dear. First of all the header tank should be 1/2 full or 1/2 empty if you like, the cold coolent level is around the halfway seam of the tank. Again you have a closed circuit cooling system, there's no overflow as such, any excess of coolent in the header tank will be released via the valve in the header tanks cap. Sort out the leak you have and see what happens, we assume yo have the standard header tank fitted and remember it's only a reservoir and the coolent will adjust to the correct level if overfilled.

It's both, 'click the 'More Reply Options next to the POST box.