steve200TDi

I'm famous! It's me in my old Blue 200TDi! It's a great little site, with lots of tight twisty technical sections. I'm still undecided whether I'll be there yet! Steve

Nice, but I don't like the sound of a quick spoil turbo, that'll just SPOIL it all!

You do realise that this was 8 years ago!! And which picture are you refering too? Give us a bit more info and I'm sure someone can help, maybe even me as I have a TD5! Steve

Ooow look a challenge truck with one of those super duper challenge roll cages on! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-defender-90-v8-/322015101325?hash=item4af998818d:g:wuAAAOSwWTRWygNp Oh dear, I hope the buyer knows about the cage not being very roll cagey and more tree protector!

The TD5 has a bonnet stay of the tube or rod type, but it is tidied or clipped in on top of the radiator, so it should be too difficult to fabricate a bracket and order the two little plastic clips. The rams are sold by Megasquirt v8! Steve

Obviously I put it in a vice first, then added the cable ties! Good luck!

Yes, I think it was me! Here's how I installed mine! Steve

Update time! So I've re done the fuel system pipe work and added a new filter. I've fitted the ignition amplifier relocation kit and made a new wiper motor bracket to hold the wiper motor unit more rigid as it was moving a lot when the wipers were on. I've also adjusted the wiper arms too. After checking the resistance of another TPS sensor I've deemed mine ok and gone ahead and 'potted' mine and supported the wiring with cable ties. Today I fitted new NGK BPR6ES spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads. I've fitted new rear brake pads and hopefully fixed a leaky rear diff pan. The engine still fires up (which is good!) but the testing will come when I take it to Slindon at the end of the month and drive it round all day. I'm still on course for that. Next things to do are: - Swap to big tyres. - Fit harnesses out of Red one. - Improve switch labelling. - Check ignition timing. - Tighten PAS belt and add a second reservoir. - Fit winch. That's all until next week. Steve

I've searched high and low, so I must be searching for the wrong thing! Luckily I found a set (of 2) on ebay for not much money, so there in storage until I decide dwhat to do with them. They're massive, so easily able to use obe for all four corners... on the racer!

Out of interest, where did you buy your fenders from as I had great difficultly in locating them as a) I didn't really know what they were called and b) the few I did find where very expensive or you had to ask for a price! You probably going to say you had them in the workshop! Steve

Eeek, sorry these measurements are for the turbo to downpipe! Oh well, you have these too! Steve

Hi Mat, Assuming they are all equal as I've only measured between 2 studs it's 81mm. I've removed it before and don't recall having to put the gasket on a correct way. Hope this helps Steve

He sounds a it touchy! Hit a nerve maybe. You were just asking a simple question....

So if I bolt this to my land rover and put one internal diagonal inside I'm sorted! Excellent! So where do I bolt the diagonal too??

Let me know what he says! I've resisted so far! Steve

I thought I had the perfect roll cage for off roading, but it seems not I need a cage designed for the 'serious off roader' and 'worthy of competition events' http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-90-TRUCK-CAB-COMPETITION-EXTERNAL-ROLL-CAGE-WITH-CHASSIS-KIT-/172064140192?hash=item280fd26ba0:g:qscAAOxyzi9SjfYL It hasn't even got a rear main hoop with a cross in it!?

That's what I did. Just shy of the bottom of the tank. Here's my build thread here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87607&p=754164 It may have some useful pictures for you. Oh and remember when you extend it, you'll probably be needing a longer bit of fuel hose. Remember it has to be fuel hose that's fuel resistant of the inside as well as the outside! Steve

Update time! I've drained and removed the fuel tank. Looking inside through the filler, it looks clean with no debris in the tank. The pick up is a steel tube which enters in the middle of the tank at the top and extends all the way to the bottle of the tank. The fuel pipe/tubing from the tank to the pump/engine will all be replaced. One thing I did find was a plastic tube going into a rubber hose held together with two jubilee clips. The inner plastic tube had squashed making a heart shape profile (without the pointy bit at the bottom!) if that makes sense! This was between the tank and pump so could have been causing a small restriction. Also the joint at the engine, a rubber hose with two metal pipes going in held with jubilee clips, was weeping ever so slightly. This will all be replaced with fuel hose and barbed fittings. I've bought a ignition amplifier relocation kit which arrived today so I've removed the old one and started to fit this. While fitting this I've noticed that the HT lead from the coil to the distributor doesn't look too good as the part of the outer rubber has started to split, so maybe a new set of HT leads are on the card. Maybe some of Nige's blue ones! Also have been looking at the wiper system and have tightened up the grub screws on the wiper spindles and am going to mount the wiper motor more rigidly as when the wipers move the motor/rack and pinion assembly are rotating slightly thus I'm loosing some of the sweep on the windscreen! So I'm off to order a few things and make up a new bracket for the wiper motor. Steve

Those splined bits are held on with a grub screw, so you can just buy new adapters, like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-WIPER-SPINDLE-ADAPTOR-STC987-/271004994753?fits=Model%3ADefender&hash=item3f19280cc1:g:o5MAAOSwI~VTyPEl But you may still need new spindles if you deem them to worn.... Steve

Ooow Oooow here's mine! Steve

Found this in the tech archive (which is very good source for anything tech!) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42253 Albeit for megasquirting it! Steve

Yes, yes, yes, I know Megasquirt is good, but lets see if we can get the existing Lucas stuff to work first! I've seen you can buy ignition amp relocation kits, but is it just a question of buying the connector and adding some wire? Sounds like a good idea though! Regarding cap, rotor and leads, I've bought a new rotor arm, I have a new cap, but no new leads. I'll fit the rotor arm as the back end was missing when I checked, but wont fit the cap for the time being. The plan is to check and redo all the above ready for the 14 Feb when I'll take it Slindon for a low speed shack down. Just want to run it all day and see if it cuts out or misbehaves at any point, I'll be armed with a multi meter and tools etc. One other thing I'll do is relocate the fuel pressure gauge into the cab so I can see it when I've driving along. Steve

The problem I'm having is that it just splutters and cuts out. At the Comp safari at Bordon last year, I managed to complete the first lap, so went round straight away for the second and half way round I could hear it dying and it cut out. We were towed off stage, let it rest for 5-10 mins and it fired up. Drove back to the pits, had a look at stuff, it still ran, so went for a 3rd lap. We were sitting at the lights and it just cut out! Towed back to trailer, fired up first time. We checked that the fuel pump was running/working which it was, checked tank vent. Sprayed WD40 on the distributor/HT leads and went for a 4th lap. This time it cut out a bit further round, but as I was driving round I could hear the engine surging and it wasn't me pushing the pedal up and down. It surged for a good 100-200m but as I was going round a sharp bend, so had to let off the accelerator pedal more it died. We tried to start it again and it did, but I reved it up to 3000rpm and it was ok, but dropped the revs to 2000rpm and it surged a bit. I don't really know what that all means, but my list of things I'm going to look at/check are as follows: - Drain and check tank for debris. - Change fuel filter. - Redo fuel lines and delete second spare pump from circuit (at the moment it's running two parallel pumps) as I don't know if there's any weird back flow through the second pump happening. - Check the fuel pump relay. - Delete the fuel pump switch over circuit and just have straight wires. - Check TPS DONE! It looks ok, so am just going to sort the wires out. Things I could have a look at maybe... - Check timing Other things: - The engine coolant radiator sits on top of the fuel tank, could it be fuel getting too hot and vapourising? I've read up on this, but haven't found a definitive temperature it happens at. I had it running at idle for a hour or so and the fuel temp (must have been on the rail) got up to 40C Discuss! Steve

Bowie69: I'll be sure to update you (and others) about the new TPS I purchased! lo-fi: Thanks! Yes I did some training before hand, two half days followed by 2 hours before the test over 3 days, so almost an intensive course. The test costs about £115 and I spent £500 on the training. The test consists of unhitching the trailer and then hitching the trailer as if you'd never seen the trailer before. So you then have to check the whole trailer over before hitching it and once it's hitched then you check all the lights. there's driving on the road, so it's a bit like taking your driving test again as you've got to have two hands on the wheel and check your mirrors and indicate etc etc. Then there's the reversing maneuver. This consists of performing a reversing 'S' into a coned parking space. So you have so steer left and right. This all happens between two yellow lines which you cant cross. You're allowed two shunts (I didn't need them ) and then you need to end up with the rear of the trailer in a hatched area, you can get out once to check, but I lined the yellow line up with something on the trailer and did it first time. This was all learnt in the training. If you've technically minded you should have any problem passing. The hardest part is driving on the road! The instructor said: 'Now, I know what you engineers are like, it doesn't need to be perfect it just needs to be in the box without knocking any cones over' Nope, sorry, I've got to do it as best as I can!! dirtyninety: Yes it's a three pin TPS like this: If you do have a spare then that would be great! I don't know about Ultra 4 events, but definitely some or all of the SCOR 4x4 comp safari series and maybe have another go at Driven to the Edge! But I wont be doing anything if I don't get it running reliably! All: I had a check of resistances of a friends sensor and compared it to mine and it seems about right, so I'm going to go ahead and try and silicone it or something... Steve

It's not too late as I haven't done much (if anything) on the Racer yet! I've borrowed another TPS, so if all the resistances are the same and I deem it working ok, then as you say trying to encase the frayed wires could be an option. I'll investigate further in the coming week, hopefully! Steve