secondjeremy

Just think - if you had a S1 you could end up with the wear pattern upside down! (Screens are rectangular rather than tapered) The various components in the linkage can work loose - and the wheel boxes can wear. Careful attention may solve the problem. You can also get polishing kits for the glass which may get rid of wear patterns.

I measured some as I was having problems - and there's quite a difference between makes - I recall Britpart were the largest and Bearmach the smallest but they may vary.

All body colour by that time - with limestone wheels.

So a warning light is going to solve the problem? You are going to remember to look at the light and act on its message. Is this easier than looking at the front or back of your vehicle to see if the lights are on as you walk away from it? All Land Rovers have switches for the panel lights. This is fed from the sidelight circuit - and in S1 and 2's the panel light switch has screw terminals - so the easiest tapping point could be the feed to the panel light switch. To use it on a S3 would mean using a piggy-back terminal.

S1's with a worm and nut steering box were made with a horn button and dip switch in the centre of the steering wheel. The whole thing is made from bakelite and sits on a long tube (Stator Tube) which carries the 4 wires required through the centre of the steering column and out at the bottom. The things are rather frail but recently Charlesworth Mouldings have started producing new parts. https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/shop/Land-Rover-Parts/Land-Rover-Series-1/Land-Rover-series-one-86-107 I think what you're looking at is the shaft for the dipswitch - the bakelite knob having broken off. Nice to re-instate as original!

The master cylinders are difficult to bleed as they point downwards. Presumably you have the CV type (rather than the older CB type with the big nut on the end.) The instructions in the s2/2a manual suggest getting the cylinder level by jacking the front of the vehicle then bleeding. I always bleed the things using an easibleed and run masses of fluid through - as there's always a bubble that takes time to come out. My rule is that if a light tap on the pedal gives a firm pedal - its adjustment - if it takes more than that there's air in it. 11in single cylinder brakes will be exactly the same. (Even the cylinder is the same!)

You'll have to fit the spades with double wires - ie first one has source + feed to 2nd - 2nd has feed for 3rd as well and so on.

Sparsholt college near Winchester teach welding: https://www.sparsholt.ac.uk/?s=welding I did evening classes there about 40 years ago and haven't blown myself up yet!

Switch is for the panel lights. Reversing lights must either be on a switch which operates when reverse is engaged - or have a warning light. But there's a difference beween work lights and reversing lights.

I'd start with the camshaft - which is ridiculously soft. Very late 2.25 engines and the 2.5 use the diesel one which is a bit better and something more aggressive could well improve things still further. next thing to look at could be to increase valve lift - different rockers - or offset the bearings.

Many bolt sizes (but not all) are given in the S3 parts book tables at the back. I wonder what searches for S3 parts manuals will produce. I've used namrick - good range and service. There are also bulk suppliers who are much cheaper - but BSF is rare. There's very little BSW used on Land Rovers - occasional stud into alloy really. many odd sizes are available from parts suppliers - including BSF - but they are often to original specs - so 5/16 UNF nuts for brake cylinders are unplated.

Jerky stiff steering - have a good look at the relay - and make sure its got oil in it. If there isn't any sign underneath its a sure sign it leaked out years ago. Also check the aroms are tight - and that the bottom of the relay is tight in the chassis. Tracking also makes a surprising difference.

The locating slots can enlarge with wear. How unusual to find one of those bearings intact - they usually snap at the flange. The bearing should be oilite or whatver its called - the (sintered?) oil - reataining slightly porous bronze material. Your new one looks like solid brass but that may be the photograph.

The load on the intermediate shaft is on the front - S1's had a shaft that was the diameter of the small front bearing for all its length and bearings to match and its common to find that a groove has worn in the front end and the front bearing has worn out. the back one is usually OK as is the shaft at that end. In the middle of the S2 run LR enlarged most of the shaft and fitted bigger bearings - which cured the problem. So the proximity of the securing bolt hole to the back bearing shouldn't be a problem.

I've used several sets of Britpart Series DeLux seats - which have all been fine and look good.

I made part of one for an 80in - and having done it decided it was a job best avoided. I started with some S3 pipes - to provide the curves. The problem is not only getting the curves in the right place but holding the pipe at the exact angle while its welded, without crushing the pipe. That pipe had a 4 hole flange to the manifold - which I found was tricky to align. I eventually tacked that up with the pipe on the vehicle. People other than Britpart make exhausts. I use Bearmach which has always fitted nicely - and is sometimes cheaper than Britpart. Which lasts longer? Dunno. I'm beginning to wonder if the Solex carb on earlier S2/2A's burns exhausts more rapidly that the Zenith and possibly the Weber.

Simple bits first: You mention free wheel hubs - have you checked they're engaged? Do they still work properly? In high ratio the thing is in 2WD unless the yellow knob has been pressed. You mention the floor is out - is the centre tunnel still there? yellow knob only works if the tunnel is there and the spring around the shaft is in place (unless you operate the pin restraining movement of the selector by hand) 4WD strange behaviour is usually siezure of the selectors where they emerge from the front of the transfer box above the drive flange. The shaft the yellow knob mechanism engages with is simply spring controlled - and if the front end gets rusty strange things happen. There is a cover which can be removed to inspect and clean - generally some vigorous cleaning and lubrication sorts it out properly. The studs for the rear propshaft are in fact bolts secured in place with a large circlip. They only hold the propshaft on and won't fall out. The handbrake drum is held on by the outer row of BSF studs and nuts. Was thee anything obviously wrong with the back shaft (Knackered and rusty UJ?)

Burlen Fuel Systems make diaphragms and other parts for the Solex. I've used their parts a number of times and they're good. I replaced the float chamber gasket on a Solex with a cheap one I purchased somewhere (not Burlen) and the choke wouldn't work at all. There was a hole missing in the gasket - Burlen gasket and it was fine. http://burlen.co.uk/ Look under Zenith Soles works nicely with new diaphragms and seems far less temperamental than the later Zenith.

Its probably the only one that does anything. Originally one was for the ignition controlled accessories - and one for the interior light when fitted. has a pink wire!

Does it have to be alloy? Could something that'll do the job be welded up from steel?

I've had a hand one for years and not used it much, mainly as I don't need to 'Joddle' joints in thin metal very often. The hole punch works nicely but the resultant hole isn't big enough for a decent plug weld. (Ie it looks great but when you turn away the things can be heard popping off! - twice was enough for me to abandon that method.)

Could be release bearing - When I did my S3 i fitted a new bearing and assumed it was supplied greased and ready to go. Thing was noisy - so when I had the box out as I was far from happy with the change quality of the 1st/2nd synchro that I'd used I got another and filled it with spray grease - and it was quiet. The old one seemed to have traces of rust when I looked into it. Spiggot can make noises - and should be greased.

In the interests of being helpful Land Rover decided that it would be best not to number S3 main gearboxes and to stamp the number on the top of the transfer box - where you show your number. As far as i know S3 numbers run like the vehicle numbers and begin 901 and run on to 902 when the 901's were exhausted. The important bit was the suffix letter as there are 4 types of S3 box. The original is suffix A - which suffered from a weak reverse. This was improved for suffix B, Suffix C introduced chemically machined teeth and suffix D had coffin-shaped engagement teeth. there's a bit more to it than this - all of which is shown in the parts manual. So apart from minor casting differences in the casing you can only tell them apaprt when you've dismantled the thing. I took one apart which from the transfer case seemed to be an 'A' but inside it was definitely a 'C'. What I did notice was the letter 'C' firmly stamped on the input shaft - under the seal housing. I don't know if this was co-incidence or a definitive marker of the type. Rover recon boxes usually have a plate screwed to the bellhousing stating what it is and the part no. (recon parts have their own number). Boxes supplied under warranty (ie when the customer expects a new box rather than a repaired one) may only have the suffix number stamped (I found one in a 2a with just a letter stamped. ) the idea was that the installer would stamp the original number on the box when he fitted it. The 3031 looks like a smaller font than Rover used so may not be a Rover stamping.

I think Ashcroft used to do a kit - probably using a Borg Warner box.

Yes they're different - inlet have springs - some exhaust don't. Exhaust are Viton - which has the lumps and rough bits so you can tell them apart.