Blanco Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Looks like I'll be busy next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Yummy 3.9m tall, correct? Put something soft on the cross beam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 I’ve been watching this thread with interest as I will hopefully be able to build a new workshop in the near future and am exploring the possibility of putting in a ramp. I figure the clearance window for a 110 raised to working height is a box in the region of 4m long x 2m wide with a height of 4m. Played with the geometry to see how that would fit into a decent sized (6m x 10m ish) workshop. It’s clear from this that it would need to go in ‘lengthwise’ - that is with the vehicle front-rear axis aligned with the roof ridge. That way you’re only looking to clear the ~2m width of the vehicle at 4m height rather than the length of it, giving you a sensible ridge height of 5m rather than 7.5m. Lengthening the 6m building dimension to 8m would enable the first option to reduce the ridge height to 6m, but a 10m x 8m building is getting bloody massive! As I want a second ‘bay’ where I can work on vehicles on the ground, this presents a packaging challenge. However I think this might work, with a door in one side and one end. Obviously brings issues in that it would require more outside space but just a thought exercise at present. Another solution could be a building the same size but with two 6m x 5m pitched roof side-by-side. That gives you your two bays side by side and access from the same elevation. But does give you a valley in the roof to manage and is more complicated to build. I fear the financial implications will prevent me from being able to do it but it’s interesting to look at the options all the same. Apologies for thread diversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Please note that you're talking about the internal dimensions here - the outside will be higher etc. because of beams etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Quote @Bowie69More like 4.45m I hope. It comes with a soft touch bar at the top with cut-out so that should suffice. Having trouble inserting a link but it's the TW250 B4.5 model, with a 'clear floor'. @ Retroanaconda. I have about 19deg pitch but near 4m at the eaves, and a 12m by 10m footprint so a fair bit of room. The roof is slate coloured profile steel which keeps the cost down a lot. Can't wait .... but it comes..... as I have discovered this evening .... more or less as components.... hardly anything is assembled and the book is all in German! Looks like quite a challenge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 On 07/06/2018 at 5:22 PM, Retroanaconda said: I’ve been watching this thread with interest as I will hopefully be able to build a new workshop in the near future and am exploring the possibility of putting in a ramp. I figure the clearance window for a 110 raised to working height is a box in the region of 4m long x 2m wide with a height of 4m. Played with the geometry to see how that would fit into a decent sized (6m x 10m ish) workshop. It’s clear from this that it would need to go in ‘lengthwise’ - that is with the vehicle front-rear axis aligned with the roof ridge. That way you’re only looking to clear the ~2m width of the vehicle at 4m height rather than the length of it, giving you a sensible ridge height of 5m rather than 7.5m. Lengthening the 6m building dimension to 8m would enable the first option to reduce the ridge height to 6m, but a 10m x 8m building is getting bloody massive! As I want a second ‘bay’ where I can work on vehicles on the ground, this presents a packaging challenge. However I think this might work, with a door in one side and one end. Obviously brings issues in that it would require more outside space but just a thought exercise at present. Another solution could be a building the same size but with two 6m x 5m pitched roof side-by-side. That gives you your two bays side by side and access from the same elevation. But does give you a valley in the roof to manage and is more complicated to build. I fear the financial implications will prevent me from being able to do it but it’s interesting to look at the options all the same. Apologies for thread diversion. are you limited on wall height? can't you go up another few courses to 3m or more? it will flatten your required roof pitch and give more space inside. @3.5m it looks like you might fit in across the garage. That gives you more room naturally It's looking a little tight round the edges. I'd give yourself another 1m in length to fit a decent sized fabrication bench at the back. Don't forget all the kit you've got and where it has to live. I really struggle with storage hence why I'm starting a mezzanine floor project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 I think once the walls go over 2.5m you get into extra planning laws, but then at those dimensions you are into planning anyways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 No reason to limit the height of the walls other than to make building it easier. 3.5m eaves would give me the space to position the lift across the building and make far more efficient use of the space. I agree that as proposed space would be tight once things like workbenches etc. are considered. Yeah planning isn’t a big concern, of course at that size one is also well into building control territory and so the implications of that need to be considered as to what is or isn’t an acceptable method of construction. I’m planning on a brick plinth maybe 200mm tall and then timber frame construction on top of that. Trussed roof but with a structural ridge beam to allow for plain rafters above the lift area. First steps will be to go see the planning/building control people and discuss what’s possible. If I manage to find a house with suitable space of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 , Managed to borrow a forklift today, having repaired a punctured tyre on it yesterday, and made a start on putting the 'kit' together...... Separating out the transport frames..... Then assembling and standing up,.... would have been much easier with the crane (background) but it's off it's base at present. Finally taking shape, got it shimmed and plumb and bolted down today, start on fiddley bits tomorrow, although quite a few potential distractions on the cards so it won't be a solid day. (My apologies to landrover130, I know it's not my thread, but it seems to fit here.... any worries and I'll shift it) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Last Friday I finally got 'round to installing out 4-poster. A second hand 5ton one, that was sitting on the trailer for the last 2 weeks due to lack of time and/or other priorities. Half a day to bolt everything down and another hour or so to connect wiring and fill the hydraulics on Tuesday evening. And it was immediately put to good use: we took out the gearbox on my Range Rover to replace the broken pins in the clutch fork (really, 2cent pins on a £50k vehicle instead of machining a keyway or something!). It felt so good to be able to work with the car on a lift again, after more then 3 years! :-) I'm planning to add a 2-poster in the near future as well, for versatility. It will be a tight fit though, the 5 ton 4-poster if significantly wider than the old 3 ton we had. And no matter how large you build, you'll always run out of space sooner rather then later... Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 On 11/06/2018 at 8:15 PM, Retroanaconda said: No reason to limit the height of the walls other than to make building it easier. 3.5m eaves would give me the space to position the lift across the building and make far more efficient use of the space. I agree that as proposed space would be tight once things like workbenches etc. are considered. Yeah planning isn’t a big concern, of course at that size one is also well into building control territory and so the implications of that need to be considered as to what is or isn’t an acceptable method of construction. I’m planning on a brick plinth maybe 200mm tall and then timber frame construction on top of that. Trussed roof but with a structural ridge beam to allow for plain rafters above the lift area. First steps will be to go see the planning/building control people and discuss what’s possible. If I manage to find a house with suitable space of course Rather than trussed roof, if you went with a traditional cut roof, you wouldn’t have any horizontal joists/rafters to worry. You may need ties at the top and purlins at mid points on the rafter arms though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Just finished tinkering with mine and tested it out, a few minor niggles with the 'handbook' and some poor connectors in the loom; but very pleased with it overall, looking forward to making use of it . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Very Nice !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 (edited) P38/D2 axles on that RRC Blanco? Edited June 17, 2018 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 D1 axles with spacers and PCD adapters. It came with somewhat silly 22" (ex RR sport, any one want them?) wheels when I bought it. I want to re-instate the original arches if I can. Unfortunately they were already 'cut' when I bought it, hence the nasty plastic arches. Actually it does drive quite nicely and I will work on keeping /restoring the look but keeping the more modern drive train, I was pondering a D2 axle up front for the lock and just keep the D1 on the rear with the spacers for simplicity. No.1 priority has to be getting it correctly registered over here and then sorting the immediate 'issues'. Decent seat belts in the back seat for a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover130 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 So after starting this thread over two years ago I have finally bit the bullet and ordered a two post lift, even though I originally said I would prefer a four post. Two days on my knees doing ball joints on Discovery td5 persuaded me I was too near pension age to repeat that scenario with the other side. The knees are perhaps worse than the ball joints were, I’ve gone with a 5.5 tonne one from Garage Equipment Online after researching nearly every manufacturer available. The problem now is where to put it so as not to loose too much shed space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 baseless 2 posters are best, we have 3 2-posters with bases and a 4 poster. nothing worse that doing fwd clutches on 4 poster. we have just picked up a baseless 4.2ton 2 poster like blanco has (5 meter tall). should make it a "joy" to do clutches on big vans with out it literally being back breaking. 4x4/rwd clutches/gearbox are a pita with base ramp as it always gets in the way on the transmission jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover130 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 I had looked at baseless for the gearbox removal as you say, but although I have a good size shed it doesn’t have enough height. I’ve worked out it should be possible to remove a gearbox with the base plate not causing too much trouble, if I’ve got my measurements correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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