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Pto and hydraulic winches have the same issues with the engine being off, you have no winch. The pto I think is a lot lighter than the hydro setup. The winch itsself can be made, søren has done it with a Land Rover diff but a freelander rear diff is the same ratio, slightly smaller and better for packaging. Doing it this way will give a usable drive assist ratio and can be done pretty cheaply. Ultimately though, nothing is cheaper than what you already have

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17 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Question will a servo off a 90 or 110 fit Sid because I don't think my servo is as good as it should be

Early Defender / RRC servos fit, I forget what mine is but it's one of those - probably 110. You just need to make sure you space it off the pedal box enough for the plunger to actually disengage otherwise the master cylinder will just pump up solid and not release!

Ask me how I know.

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In other things I started making collars for my flat bar bender so I can roll 3mm flat on its end

Progress so far 

Old flange one of two

20230714_193556.thumb.jpg.daee09ebf64d108a377d9d9786283b3d.jpg

Lathe work

20230714_193529.thumb.jpg.be05d5d1215db463c95e23444e037e50.jpg

Parting off

20230714_200351.thumb.jpg.2aecdec00af39cdc937e82ad2613de5a.jpg

Rings will be drilled and tapped to take grub screws so I can tighten onto bender rolls creating the gap I need to stop flat bar deforming

20230714_201429.thumb.jpg.d0961877c49c545fb20810e698dbb5cb.jpg

you get the idea..

regards Stephen 

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On 7/13/2023 at 9:21 PM, NRS91 said:

Typically bypassing the AFC housing like that causes plumes of black smoke until the turbo can catch up, also leads to undesirable effects like bore washing and carbon build up but for limited use off road toys it would take years to see any negative consequences.
The yanks would call it an "AFC Delete" 🤣

None of that,  I have to try very hard to get even a hint of smoke out of my exhaust, and the tops of the pistons are all bare metal, like new basically.

As the max fuel delivery is per standard, the engine never runs rich under regular running. It only allows to have slightly more fuel under acceleration to reduce turbo lag. The difference is not massive, as the pump now decides on fuel delivery depending on throttle and RPM as opposed to throttle, RPM, and turbo pressure. If the RPM is low, the turbo pressure is also low, so it is not a big change.

 

On 7/14/2023 at 6:51 AM, Stellaghost said:

Is there a write up on Daan's winch ??

Regards Stephen

Not really, I have a few pics, bumper:

image.png.122162aee752e1d28748afa8d4b778d0.png

image.png.aa4132999dddc498692ad2b520b9b397.png

Modified PTO:

gallery_336_1371_94410.jpg

Daan

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20 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Forgot to add, the new winch bumper and Rhino winch have come in 29kg lighter than the original bumper and 8274, not a bad little saving

Regards Stephen

29kg off of the front end is a massive ammount. And the 8274 is a good choice on the rear with the spur gear break

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16 hours ago, Daan said:

None of that,  I have to try very hard to get even a hint of smoke out of my exhaust, and the tops of the pistons are all bare metal, like new basically.

As the max fuel delivery is per standard, the engine never runs rich under regular running. It only allows to have slightly more fuel under acceleration to reduce turbo lag. The difference is not massive, as the pump now decides on fuel delivery depending on throttle and RPM as opposed to throttle, RPM, and turbo pressure. If the RPM is low, the turbo pressure is also low, so it is not a big change.

Ahh fair, with the fuelling standard and I assume the turbo turned up that would make sense! Would be interesting to try your method with a boost pin but that may push it into smokey territory. 

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20 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

29kg off of the front end is a massive ammount. And the 8274 is a good choice on the rear with the spur gear break

You could even run the 8274 in the back and winch through the car to the front, and take a loop out if you want to winch to the rear.

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18 minutes ago, NRS91 said:

Ahh fair, with the fuelling standard and I assume the turbo turned up that would make sense! Would be interesting to try your method with a boost pin but that may push it into smokey territory. 

Turbo is not turned up, but has the original boost of a discovery automatic, which is 15PSI. Boost pin would have no effect, as the pin is locked solid.

The disco auto delivers 122bhp, which is what mine will be:

image.png.2eba7763998e1f8610e499fef839afe6.png

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Just now, Daan said:

Turbo is not turned up, but has the boost of a discovery automatic. Boost pin would have no effect, as the pin is locked solid.

Boost pin would still add more fuelling, the standard pin profile doesn't give full fuelling from the AFC mechanism.

The boost pin at max travel is basically like running without a boost pin but without the fuel leak you would get from the slide pin going past the O ring seal that keeps the diesel in the casing.

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1 hour ago, dangerous doug said:

Vector winch?

vector runs from the winch mid mounted rearwards, round a pulley then forwards out the chassis leg,

the way @Daan is suggesting would be winch mounted in the rear cross member but facing forwards, so single line out the front & double line out the back, theres a few ultra 4 cars set up with roughly the same setup

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Now fitted

20230716_151054.thumb.jpg.ec66d4d30391efd2eba3a7371a2b5427.jpg

winch does not hold the same amount of rope as the 8274, but then it is 13mm rope, however once a put the 8274 onto the rear this rope will be comming off to go back on the 8274 and rear winch rope which is 10mm should all go on the Rhino winch

20230716_151059.thumb.jpg.6e54867def8bec42012f10b5d278e59e.jpg

Winch wouldn't work remotely at first, remotes were lighting up and moving winch for about 4 seconds then stopping, new batteries and now working fine

Regards Stephen 

regards Stephen 

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Would someone mind explaining the differences, pro's and cons of Thor and gems engines and any other variant I might of missed, also which one is easier to mate up to an lt77,( not a massive issue, pretty sure I could make something either way) also reliability.

Thanks regards Stephen

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They seem to have gone up in price (or maybe I got a bargain) but I'd strongly consider the 1UZ out of a Lexus LS400 (and so would @Bowie69). If you get a complete car then you don't need any aftermarket ECUs to run it just a few relays to direct power to the various pins. I've done this and have some simple to follow wiring diagrams should you want them. There is an off the shelf adapter to an R380 but to be honest someone with your skills would knock one up faster than it could be delivered.

They are wide but you have to spend quite a bit of dosh to get a Rover V8 to match the power they are outputting as standard. They've also got a factory redline of 6750 rpm which would help with your gearing issues. I've got one mocked up in a chassis if you want any measurements from it. It's a tight fit in some spots to a Defender body but all workable, that's keeping everything in the factory location. Quite a few people switch the alternator, PAS pump and aircon pump around to free up a lot of space.

As things stand the PAS pump is on the drivers side right next to the PAS box and has the reservoir built in. No need to fiddle around with relief pressures like other engines (Cummins spring to mind). The water hoses come out centrally in the engine and using a Defender V8 radiator all the original Lexus hoses are the right diameter and length. Throttle is cable driven rather than electronic (cable drive to the throttle body on top) so you can use the factory pedal.

At least in a 110 I've so far found factory LR or Lexus parts that work. The only custom bit so far is engine mounts (annoyingly they are 1" off dropping in the factory 300Tdi chassis mounts).

I knew a bit about the Thor vs Gems but I'll let more authorative figures such as @Bowie69 and @FridgeFreezer speak about those.

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Thor vs Gems mechanically are essentially the same, minor differences in front covers, but most inconsequential. 

The bigger difference is the inlet tract, the Gems engine is a more traditional rectangular plenum, whereas the Thor is more of a bunch of bananas affair for more torques. 

I have a Gems engine in mine, but with a 3.9 plenum as it makes it somewhat easier to megasquirt. 

That comes on to the downsides of the Gems and Thor, the ecus don't like to run out of the vehicle, so you are either going to have to go carbs or aftermarket EFI, which given your aversion to electrickery I suspect won't be an option. 

Ed makes a good point re:Lexus 1uz, it is very easy to get it to run out the vehicle with the factory computer, and most problems have been solved.... No tuning issues, just works. There's a few sumps available depending on source vehicle (centre mid rear), so worth waving a tape about before you decide. Your ability make an adapter yourself opens this option to people who can't.... 

If I hadn't had a nice RV8 with good autobox and LT230 I'd have gone lexus in a heartbeat in LGT. 

I know you're not an auto man, but you can bolt a Jeep AW4 box (basically the same as the lexus box with a different tailhousing) up to the back of the 1UZ and then a relatively cheap or homemade adapter bolts it up to the LT230... 

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