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5 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

That looks a lot like the later ~td5 maybe column? 

I think they're all now made like that, so if you buy a replacement for an older one, you'll get that style too.

@Stellaghost if you get heated screens you can wire the two halves in series which means they run cooler (getting 6v each) and don't need a timer and the current draw is halved (so an easier life for the switch/relay) - I found mine still worked pretty well that way although a bit slower to clear, obviously.

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1 hour ago, CwazyWabbit said:

Could you add an extra UJ into the mix to get you around the obstacle? You'd need another bearing mount too, but we now don't bat an eyelid when we expect you to do hours of machining off the back of a throw away comment ;)

 

I'm absolutely positive you don't want me to finish this!!!!!!!!!!!! Lol

Regards Stephen

 

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4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I think they're all now made like that, so if you buy a replacement for an older one, you'll get that style too.

@Stellaghost if you get heated screens you can wire the two halves in series which means they run cooler (getting 6v each) and don't need a timer and the current draw is halved (so an easier life for the switch/relay) - I found mine still worked pretty well that way although a bit slower to clear, obviously.

In series…. That’s an excellent pun, intended or not :lol: 

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13 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Screens don't like being left on for too long so the right way to do it is to use a timer relay (stays on for a fixed time) fed by a mom on switch and then use that relay to trigger a bigger relay capable of powering the current needed by the screen.

By chance I was making up some relay boards for two Defenders yesterday to do just this

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@L19MUD I would be extremely grateful if you could post up a picture of your heated windscreen boards once they have been wired up regards Stephen

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⁷Wired them up today but still need wiring to the truck. The timer relays have 5 pins. The extra pin should really have a switched ignition feed but I have linked to the permanent feed as it makes the wiring easier where I am fitting. Downside is you need to turn off before switching the ignition off or it will run for the remainder of the 10 mins. 

Output of main relay to the left will be to the screen. Input to the timer will be from the momentary switch which is fed from and ignition switched feed so can only be turned on when ignition on. Earths will go to an earth point or the negative terminal

Diagram here of the timer relay but in an application  where it can handle the load itself. I am using it to power the bigger load capacity relayScreenshot_20221213-232102_Chrome.thumb.jpg.e7068983a8199cea9a197666018470f1.jpg

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4 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

I've said this before, sometimes it's the little touches regards Stephen 

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This is not acceptable...  😁😁     That needs to be 10 mm plate at least with brackets to hang massive D clamps from🤓

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Gearbox tunnel progressed, been a long afternoon's work

First off some former / jig making

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Cleaned up

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Use of new toy

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Hole cut in aluminium sheet

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put into jig

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At this point I decided to annealed the aluminium  again 

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Recess for gator more or less completed

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Dark now so that will do for today regards Stephen  

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I lied !!!

Was at a loose end so thought I would progress gearbox tunnel 

Out with the night lights

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Not fitting too bad after a wee bit of cutting, a little bit of work in the shrinker stretcher and I think it will be OK

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seat box plate over the top will neaten it up regards Stephen 

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6 hours ago, Wytze said:

This is not acceptable...  😁😁     That needs to be 10 mm plate at least with brackets to hang massive D clamps from🤓

Part of me is undecided with what to do in this area at the moment ,hence the end caps

I was thinking of hinging both ends and using the cross member for storage ie; a place to put ground anchor pins, the caps will be very easy to remove, 10mm welded plate end caps not so easy ..lol

Regards Stephen

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7 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Part of me is undecided with what to do in this area at the moment ,hence the end caps

I was thinking of hinging both ends and using the cross member for storage ie; a place to put ground anchor pins, the caps will be very easy to remove, 10mm welded plate end caps not so easy ..lol

Regards Stephen

Just had to tickle you, to get this explanation😁😁  And i'm happy they are not there to stay😅

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9 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

I was thinking of hinging both ends and using the cross member for storage ie; a place to put ground anchor pins, the caps will be very easy to remove, 10mm welded plate end caps not so easy ..lol

Not sure storing recovery gear in a location that is likely to be buried when you need recovery is the best idea...

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