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2 hours ago, landroversforever said:

primary teacher

Ohhh dear....

I fear the worst.....

She will be used to having lots of children running around her.......

Best lay off the workshop for a couple of decades....

You are going to need your energy......

Will be hard work looking after a tribe of little Ross's

But on the bright side in the future you will be like me and get plenty of workshop relaxation....

Regards Stephen

 

 

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4 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

It would be ok ontop of the radius arm mount, no?

A tad too close to the chassis, chassis is directly over radius arm mount, I could cut away some of the strengthening and mount it at the bottom of radius arm mount, either way I'm still going into the tub however by my calcs I will not be above stepped section so I figured the floor section not affected by shocks could be boxed in to make storage compartments regards Stephen

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3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

rear wheel is now 42" off the ground as appose to 36 before, it won't go quite that far with springs back in 

Thoughts as always regards Stephen 

 

Oooooh, Iroks 🥰
Where did you get them? 🙂

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@Stellaghost, in the pics above, see the pins welded through the radius arms on the front, possibly another option? Also, the secondary shock is laid back  quite a bit and then tied into the cage near the bulkhead -any room for that?

On the rears, there is a box fabbed off the lower spring perch, just underneath, which takes the lower shock mount, the upper is laid forward, and again tied into the cage, essentially the main hoop.

Not saying it will work for you, but maybe some ideas :)

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Hard to judge from the pictures but can a shock not fit where the white line is in the picture? The bottom mounts would need to be inline or outboard of the trailing arm mounts in would say.

 

Please excuse the horrendous picture.
 


 

32E85641-4B5F-458C-B230-F7A819D28F02.jpeg.cfe1a4c27e604bc3c3f20d8aca38adbc.jpeg

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3 hours ago, muddy said:

Hard to judge from the pictures but can a shock not fit where the white line is in the picture? The bottom mounts would need to be inline or outboard of the trailing arm mounts in would say.

 

Please excuse the horrendous picture.
 


 

32E85641-4B5F-458C-B230-F7A819D28F02.jpeg.cfe1a4c27e604bc3c3f20d8aca38adbc.jpeg

@muddy I'm assuming your talking about installing the shocks to the rear of the axle regards Stephen 

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39 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

I assume he's meaning in a similar fashion to stock. Any reason why that doesn't work for you? 

 

Could be, my previous try in stock position tyres starting to rub, however brackets were made so tub wasn't cut, I could remake straight and cut the tub I guess regards Stephen 

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27 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

This sort of angle: 

Rear Challenge Shock Mount XHD 2 Position, BLUE, GL1062 – GwynLewis4x4.co.uk

 

Should clear the tyres with them leant that sort of angle forwards. 

Biggest enemy to clearance I've found is the last couple of inches of the opposite side dropping out and making the top of the tyre tip in.

 

That's kind of the angle they were at, will look at it again tomorrow, obviously my shocks are way longer than those, no way I'll get them under the tub, the angle they would need to be would make it a total waste of time buying the shocks in the first place

With the portals the centre line of wheels will be 5" lower than yours so there will be differences as to where the wheels tip to

 regards Stephen

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Slightly left field suggestion for the rear shocks - could you cross them over at the top? One in front of the brace and one behind? That way you could get them at much more of an angle and reduce their damping effect? Obviously you'd have to sort out clearances of the shock bodies but I am sure you have some shim steel lying about....

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Yes I mean somewhere near to standard like ross says infant of the axle however stuck up into the wheebox area, much easier to box in in the tub and still leaves the middle open to use (assuming the rear cage stays also go through the wheelboxs.)

Its also watching the shocker body doesn't clash with the chassis side on full droop this is why the bottom needs to be fairly outboard.

 

 

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