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Kenlowe hotstart cable or equivalent


Eightpot

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I've picked up a kenlowe hotstart for nowt, but its missing its external  mains cable (the main cable connected to the heater is present)

Quite fancy plumbing it into the 110 but can't find a source for a replacement  power cable - would have thought they should be obtainable, assuming they get wrecked when people drive off without disconnecting!  If anyone knows where to get or has a spare..

Alternatively I could just chop the end & replace with something like an Anderson connector I guess? 

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I woukdsugestfrom a safety point of view a blue Hubble plug (some people call them caravan plugs.) and socket with a blue Arctic cable. You will need to fit a Hubble socket either outside or in the garage And a long lead.

I Do recommend the use the heater in the garage as a fire could spread to the house.

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3 hours ago, rebel_eddie said:

I woukdsugestfrom a safety point of view a blue Hubble plug (some people call them caravan plugs.) and socket with a blue Arctic cable. You will need to fit a Hubble socket either outside or in the garage And a long lead.

I Do recommend the use the heater in the garage as a fire could spread to the house.

I thought Hubble was just a brand name. I used the term caravan plug as most people recognise them as such. You can run the lead off a standard 3 pin plug and socket as it is only pulling 13 amp, but I would recommend an outlet with a built in rcd. unit similiar to this https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-13a-2-gang-rcd-switched-plug-socket-metal-clad/4714p#_=p

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All that the original Kenlowe socket is, is a caravan or marine 240V socket with integrated feet to mount it, moulded in black.  I have one on mine, screwed to the bumper.  There is nothing special about it, and the marine/caravan male socket that I added to an extension lead to plug into the wall connects perfectly.  Just be sure to fit the socket on the vehicle in a location that doesn't get tyre spray and an orientation that allows it to drain water naturally.

For what it's worth, it can be seen in my photos here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/front-end/

 

 

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I've always known them as Commando sockets, no idea why.

Worth noting that if you use a commando both ends then there is no fuse in the link other than what's in your household fusebox, which may well be 32A for a ring main. If you use a 13A fused plug (ideally with RCD) at the "house" end it's more protected - weatherproof boxes for plugs & sockets are easily available, and an outdoor 13A socket can be quite handy for mowers, pressure washers, etc..

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1 hour ago, Blanco said:

Lots of good advice on the 'house end' but the way I read the OP is to find out what/where to source or replace the connection to the unit itself, which from Arjan's pics is clearly none of the above?

Not as I read it, Eightpot clearly says he has the mains cable connected to the heater.

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Sorry - thought I'd posted this already - Its a later version like the one in the attached pic.

Has a flylead coming off with a small socket on the end a bit33052623-667-640x480-1.jpg.89d0112fdeeb30b168730688e5b39c19.jpg like a 3 pin din plug, I need the other half, otherwise find a pair of suitable connectors and make up a power lead. 

The section I'm short of is the male cable, which is the end pointing ro the right on the picture.  There's a model number EMV 26 on the socket, can't find the manufacturer though.  

Probably the easiest route is chop the end of and use a caravan socket, but the kenlowe one is discreet and compact.

 

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Had the old type and sold it with that vehicle..

You can very much use any suitable set up - the unit needs to sit as low as possible in the systemand usu. needs an extension cable to get to a goodaccesspoint. Kenlowe suggested on the bumper but we had them on the side in a hidden receiver.

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On 12/17/2018 at 4:17 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

I've always known them as Commando sockets, no idea why.

Worth noting that if you use a commando both ends then there is no fuse in the link other than what's in your household fusebox, which may well be 32A for a ring main. If you use a 13A fused plug (ideally with RCD) at the "house" end it's more protected - weatherproof boxes for plugs & sockets are easily available, and an outdoor 13A socket can be quite handy for mowers, pressure washers, etc..

Very true, and a good safety tip.

I installed a weatherproof 13A socket on my garage door pillar for this and also power tools (saving running the extension lead through the garage).  It ran from a switch in the hallway, so I could plug the car in on arriving home but leave the power off, and switch it on in the morning prior to breakfast - it mean't no need for timer units and no chance of people using my electrical power while I was out.

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3 hours ago, Arjan said:

Had the old type and sold it with that vehicle..

You can very much use any suitable set up - the unit needs to sit as low as possible in the systemand usu. needs an extension cable to get to a goodaccesspoint. Kenlowe suggested on the bumper but we had them on the side in a hidden receiver.

That is the type I have.  The motor and impeller tend to seize if not used once a month, at least momentarily.  I mounted mine on a plate on the timing case of the 200Tdi, where an aircon pump would go, partly because of convenience, but also in the hope that the engine vibration would keep the pimp spindle free moving.  It's low enough not to have any airlock issues.

Siting of the big electrical connection is best on the end of the vehicle that is opposite to how you'll exit the parking spot, and mounted so the plug is relatively horizontal - that way, the plug will be pulled out of the socket if you forget to disconnect it without the risk of you driving over it.  The spring loaded cap cover the vehicle socket automatically.

  

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The lead simply has a plastic fitting with three female spade fittings at one end and the marine/caravan/commando socket at the other, the intervening cable covered in black plastic convolute for protection.  There is nothing special or clever about it.  All voltage regulation and any rectification is done inside the old unit's casing, so fabricating your own lead is simple enough.

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