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Demountable trailer body - mini project


L19MUD

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On 12/7/2020 at 5:33 PM, landroversforever said:

I was picturing a set of hoses with dry break connectors so it can be taken apart once listed. Although, writing that I've just thought that as the hydraulics would be under load from tbe box, you might not get the connectors apart.

You can get some couplers that are designed to be connected under pressure - e.g. a Bobcat I hired with a sweeper collector had some "quick couplers" - they had a very slight thread on them which only needed to be done up hand tight but they had a double stage inside the couplers to relieve pressure.

Weren't cheap though because I broke two :wacko:, one was £60ish and the other was £30ish.

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3 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

You can get some couplers that are designed to be connected under pressure - e.g. a Bobcat I hired with a sweeper collector had some "quick couplers" - they had a very slight thread on them which only needed to be done up hand tight but they had a double stage inside the couplers to relieve pressure.

Weren't cheap though because I broke two :wacko:, one was £60ish and the other was £30ish.

Interesting! Not come across them! 

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No fancy couplings here! Legs all now made and the front ones test fitted. I couldn't get the box section sizes i needed so i welded some angle to the inner section to get a nice telescoping fit. Obligatory picture of a decent weld included (wish all my welds looked like that!)

IMG_20201221_122541.thumb.jpg.82b2007953e26d45ae92851dce7b3c29.jpgIMG_20201221_130638.thumb.jpg.fed1ad44eb0498d3d2435f2220e7b854.jpgIMG_20201221_125339.thumb.jpg.137959a5821cd2cdad30bda3211f9211.jpg

 

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6 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Nice one! What are you doing for mounting to the trailer? 

The holes where the posts go for the sides accept 50x30mm box section. I designed the leg sockets to go above those holes so i can weld some box underneath to drop in. I think i need to shape the box section into a point at the end to aide fitting. I will then have nuts welded into the box to bolt into

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This shows my plan but i am worried that unless i get it perfectly right it will be a nightmare to get it located each time. The body is a little far forward and not quite centered in this picture as that box section socket should come to the edge of the trailer.

Suggestions welcomeIMG_20201230_152340.thumb.jpg.cbcecec0e4858e2347adf4b5f059d5f5.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, steve b said:

stick a plate on the top of each peg that is just big enough to get a weld from above , drop all four in place position the box in the right place and weld . Remove box and complete the welds on the under side 

Steve

That is a great and simple idea!

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41 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Guessing you’re worried about lining it up each time? Could you have some kind of adjustable sliding/bolted joint? 

or some kind of turn buckle arrangement?

Yes i am worried about that too. My first thoughts were making the box section slightly pointed in both directions to aide location.

Have thought of both of the above but not sure how to do it!

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DSC02011.thumb.JPG.a2a6fd03e2fafef236a0f6c1025a4a5c.JPG

This is what I had in mind , the pyramid would be easiest to fab. from flat plate .

Securing it down to the bed can be ratchet strap/ turnbuckle/ steel strips that align with existing holes in the bed or even short chains attached to box and bolted to trailer 

As to lining it up I reckon with the trailer roughly in place unhitch it and just shimmy it in place as you go . Marks or blocks to run the wheels up to would also help.

Steve 

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1 hour ago, steve b said:

DSC02011.thumb.JPG.a2a6fd03e2fafef236a0f6c1025a4a5c.JPG

This is what I had in mind , the pyramid would be easiest to fab. from flat plate .

Securing it down to the bed can be ratchet strap/ turnbuckle/ steel strips that align with existing holes in the bed or even short chains attached to box and bolted to trailer 

As to lining it up I reckon with the trailer roughly in place unhitch it and just shimmy it in place as you go . Marks or blocks to run the wheels up to would also help.

Steve 

This was the sort of thing i was thinking. I could weld an m12 nut in the bottom and then bolt upwards to secure it? Would end up bigger than 10mm on the side though

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I wondered about a nut welded in to bolt it down with .

   My dimensions are just an indication - keep roughly that angle and make it shorter until you can get a nut in .

As elbekko says slit the box will work just as well , just me accidentally dropping into quantity production mode :) 

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41 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

Sounds like I have a plan then! 

Do we think 4 m12 bolts is enough to hold it down?! Could add a couple of ratchet straps

With how it's built it's probably overkill except maybe in a rollover.

Just add a nyloc nut at the back, should fix the vibration issue.

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33 minutes ago, elbekko said:

With how it's built it's probably overkill except maybe in a rollover.

Just add a nyloc nut at the back, should fix the vibration issue.

The nut will be captive and welded in, thus i suspect its nyloc capabilities might be lost!

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