range rover sport 3.0 body removal without 2 post lift

[carl lewis]

Hi all i'm new to the site been trying for ages to find a way of removing the body from my range rover 2010 without access to a 2 post ramp .has anyone on here managed to do it in their own garage . many thanx carl

[garrycol]

So if you do not have a two post lift how do you intend to lift the body high enough to clear the chassis - engine etc to enable work to be done.

I am sure you could slowly jack the body up resting on jack stands but you are not going to get it very high - definitely not enough to actually clear the chassis.

The recommended approach is there for a reason.

 

 

[Stellaghost]

Firstly welcome to the forum, I have never lifted a range rover body off so don't know where the lift points are but, you could hire an aluminium A frame with adjustable height most likely off one of the mainstream hire companies, this would do the job providing you can find suitable lifting points, you may also need to fabricate some sort of attachment system that can bolt under the body and protrude out enough to attach lifting gear to although that would only be any good if you can fabricate or have a good mate who can not much help I'm afraid, it's probably a take on how I would do it regards Stephen

[carl lewis]

Thanks Stellaghost, been doing loads of research on this as local garages arent interested and the one which will do it wants stupid money. i have decided to make a gantry either side of the vehicle  with a couple of winch/tackle blocks but as you pointed out its the attaching to the body for the lifting which is the problem. i have searched for the cab weight but have been unable to find it . i was thinking of using some heavy 3 inch steel angle  bolted to the body front and back  at the lift points or where the body and chassis are bolted together,unsure at this time where is suitable and welding some box section to the angle to attach a lifting block. just thought someone would have done something similar so i had something to act as a guide for when i start it .

[carl lewis]

thanks garrycol i am going to make a gantry to enable me to lift the cab but it is where and how to attach to the body which im unsure of at the moment.

[elbekko]

You should be able to use the factory jacking points on the sills to lift from.

[Stellaghost]

Alternatively you could raise the body a wee bit after removing the body to chassis securing bolts and then clamp brackets in to the clamping holes in the body to secure your lifting devices regards Stephen 

[Bowie69]

I guess the other question to ask is why are you removing the body? I know there were some jobs that 'required' it, but other people that are a little more inventive have managed to get away with cutting a panel out of the (passenger?) floor, and bolting it back in afterwards.

Just trying to save you a load of work

[carl lewis]

thanks elbekko, i will check to see if there anything there i can bolt a jig to cheers

[carl lewis]

Hi stellaghost, that sounds like a better plan im wondering now if i could lift it about 4 inches and then slide 2 beams across from side to side for more stability? cheers

[carl lewis]

thanks bowie69 im lifting the body so that i can swap the engine as the current one is knocking its txxx off.

[garrycol]

11 hours ago, elbekko said:

You should be able to use the factory jacking points on the sills to lift from.

There are no jacking points on the sills or body - factory points are under the chassis.

[garrycol]

9 hours ago, carl lewis said:

thanks bowie69 im lifting the body so that i can swap the engine as the current one is knocking its txxx off.

Though difficult and not recommended, the engine can be removed with an engine hoist in the home garage without cutting holes - however it is difficult and stressful but can be done.

[elbekko]

5 hours ago, garrycol said:

There are no jacking points on the sills or body - factory points are under the chassis.

Is that so? I was under the impression that there were points on the body too. But I could be wrong of course.

A P38 we usually just grab on either end of the sill with a 2-poster, works fine.

[garrycol]

This is a L320 not a P38 - the jacking points are under the chassis - there are holes in the chassis where the jack goes into it to stop the jack sliding around.  With an aftermarket jack you can also use the suspension wishbones.  The jacking points are just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels.

I am sure with some preparation to spread the load part of the body may be strong enough to jack on - afterall there spots where the pads of the arms of a two post lift go - not sure where these are but I assume at the spots where the body bolts to the chassis.

 

[carl lewis]

im thinking that if i use a wooden block under where the 2 post pads go, and then jack up about 6 inches i should be able to put something between the cab and chassis to allow the raising of the body

[Escape]

We swapped the engine on a Disco3 some years ago without removing the body, that wasn't too bad. And that's basically the same car as the L320 Range Rover Sport. Not tried it on the L322 full fat Range Rover, but from working on it it seems doable with the body on. By the time you have A-post and suitable support you'll have done a lot of work and would have probably gotten to the engine anyway. 

Alternatively, why not get a (cheap) 2-poster for the job, and then sell it on? If you have the room for one that is.

Filip

[carl lewis]

thanks escape, i was lead to beieive that engine out with body on was way harder and took far more time, thats why is was looking to take body off. unfortunately havent got enough room for a ramp. many thanks for the input, more to think about.

[L19MUD]

7 hours ago, carl lewis said:

im thinking that if i use a wooden block under where the 2 post pads go, and then jack up about 6 inches i should be able to put something between the cab and chassis to allow the raising of the body

It may need to go up higher than that at the front to clear the gearbox/bellhousing

[carl lewis]

thanks L19mud,  i hadnt considered that , this looks more like making something to bolt on through the body to chassis mounting points for the lift.

[Bigj66]

On 3/3/2021 at 4:24 PM, carl lewis said:

thanks bowie69 im lifting the body so that i can swap the engine as the current one is knocking its txxx off.

Is that for real? Landrover have designed a vehicle that needs the whole body to be lifted off to change the engine? No wonder they’re fooked 🙄

I’ll stick with my Series from a time when things were much simpler.

[Implandy]

well what about dropping out the axle and lowering the engine? will it fit between the rails?

[Bowie69]

1 hour ago, Bigj66 said:

Is that for real? Landrover have designed a vehicle that needs the whole body to be lifted off to change the engine? No wonder they’re fooked 🙄

I’ll stick with my Series from a time when things were much simpler.

Land rover designed a vehicle that required a body removal in order to change the turbo, so yes.

Also designed for a 10 year lifespan, like so many manufacturers these days.

[garrycol]

3 hours ago, Bigj66 said:

Is that for real? Landrover have designed a vehicle that needs the whole body to be lifted off to change the engine? No wonder they’re fooked 🙄

I’ll stick with my Series from a time when things were much simpler.

Yes and designed for that function - body off in only a couple of hours with fittings designed or placed for easy removal - no where near as bad as it sounds.

[landroversforever]

3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Land rover designed a vehicle that required a body removal in order to change the turbo, so yes.

Also designed for a 10 year lifespan, like so many manufacturers these days.

Having done a D3 turbo with the body on, doing another would be a doddle. The early turbo has studs, if we'd cut them first it would have made life 10x easier. the replacement had tapped holes if I remember correctly. Biggest pain was getting the exhaust/cat out of the way as the gearbox crossmember bolts were seized solid.

 

38 minutes ago, garrycol said:

Yes and designed for that function - body off in only a couple of hours with fittings designed or placed for easy removal - no where near as bad as it sounds.

This. It's designed that way. So bits like the rad mountings are designed to slide as the body is lifted. Something to be wary of there, I don't know how sensitive that will be to misalignment as you lift.