Puma doors - CDL (central door locking)

[landroversforever]

23 hours ago, Badger110 said:

Something in the back my mind is telling me you can’t get a matched door lock/ignition set for pre puma and pumas.

 

I did the opposite to what you are doing, put older doors on a puma and I couldn’t get matching door locks to the ignition as they’re an older design on the door.

With a modern key set/lock than your ignition barrel, can you fit the newer style ignition or is there a kit which will work?

 

You’ve gone to series doors with removable tops though right? The push button doors can swap handles to suit the later ignition key types I think. 

[Peaklander]

I'm just starting to think about fitting of the CDL actuator, control rod, pivot and new lock at the rear door. This thread from @nickwilliams shows the 'factory' parts and their arrangement. Thanks to @Dave W for this photo in that thread.

 

 

I did not fit a Puma door card as I have a homebrew panel with a dropdown table on it. I will need to modify it to accommodate the operating rods. I'm not sure if the actuator tucks away enough into the thickness of the door but I will find out soon enough.

 

[Badger110]

It doesn’t I’m afraid.  
 

The actuator sits proud at about the same protrusion as the door lock body rear face if that makes sense?

 

Is it possible to mount your door card proud of the door using spacers to allow the actuator, rod and swivel piece to sit behind it all?  
 

I guess that’s going to be governed by the clearance when the rear door is shut.

 

[Peaklander]

I will probably fit the new lock and key barrel. Then wait and faff about with the panel once I’ve got the rest of the doors project complete. That will perhaps be in early Spring!  It is very hard to do anything in an unheated garage now the weather has taken a turn. Max of 5C in there today but I will run the looms and get that side all done.

[Peaklander]

I've almost gathered all the stuff needed to do this job. The 10AS has come back from Technozen, slightly delayed by UPS on the way out and by Royal Mail on return. Paul turned it around overnight and there's now a relay and varistor for the CDL, the left one of the relay pair. Also the fobs were checked and the alarm sounder output changed to pulsed.

 

I have had a great deal of help from @PaulMc to identify the various connectors needed for the CDL and power windows. I have a couple of the headers referred to earlier, which should help with the distribution of common circuits such as unlock and lock. They are far more interesting now I know their configuration. For example the blue header provides 2 x 6 way commons and 2 x 4 way.

Also, at bottom right, are Superseal connectors with rubber boots. One pair of boots are at 90 degrees. These are to tidy-up my heated door mirrors which are currently connected to the A post cables using bullets.

 

Also I have two more of the Carling Contura switches for the front windows. These are on-off-on momentary action. They will be 'manual' in that there's no auto raise / lower function in the 10AS, or in Defenders generally, as far as I know. I'm using the connector mounting module to make connections easier.

 

Today the cable has arrived but I need a crimper, a Hozan P-706, again recommended by Paul in the wibbly wobbly speedo thread, which won't be here for a week or two.

I might try to squeeze in an rpm gauge whilst I remodel the Mudstuff console. Has anyone any experience of these cheap ones on eBay? This one is £20.59.

 

[Peaklander]

I’m well on with this now, if progress can be judged by the dashboard being dismantled yet again. I seem to have done this too often, yet each time, I struggle with the long plastic piece that the vent handles poke through. It sits at an angle, sloping down and back and has to come out in order to access the loom from the dash down to the fusebox and in my vehicle, to the rear of the Mudstuff console.

The problem is that I have never been able to remove the vent handles from the lever that goes forward through to the flaps. Every time, I pull and pull but they don’t budge.

Can they be removed? Should I try harder or will something break?!

[western]

Pretty sure these are moulded on to the lever,  just looked at mine & cannot see any grub screws or thread on the lever, later vehicles with the round style are screw on. 

& looking at new ones they come with the knob attached. 

[Peaklander]

Yes thought so. Undoing at the vents is an unwanted fiddle but not doing so risks cracking the plastic and I don’t have many lives left!

Thanks for looking. 

[Peaklander]

I took the advice of @paul mc and bought a suitable crimper. I couldn't have done the job without it, as the various crimps for the headers, CDL connectors, Superseal connectors, Amp for the 10AS, are very small, fiddly and one-chance items. I needed detailed instructions from him of which jaw to use for a particular crimp type. Most need two or three operations to correctly crimp. It's quite a job in poor light and a cold garage. Lots of temporary lighting was needed for my well-used eyes.

 

I ran the cables from all five doors, back to a blue header above the front windscreen and then just two wires down to the 10AS. Picking the 20-way blue header meant that there are two 6-way shorts which is perfect. The circuits are closed when the header 'cap' is fitted. 

 

Down at the 10AS there were three cables to add - the green and grey connectors have different sized pins. The connector retainer needs to be opened so that new pins can be added. In this case three wires are needed, two for Unlock / Lock on the green connector (pins 2 & 3) and one on grey (pin 7) for the  Driver's door key turn sense wire.

 

After some thinking I mounted the two switches, leaving space for a future 52mm gauge; so it looks a little unbalanced.

 

I used Superseal connectors on my door mirrors. These were previously on bullets.

 

 

 

Passenger 2-wire CDL connector

 

 

It's a snug fit..

 

[Peaklander]

Lots of checks were needed when wiring and pushing-in connectors, to ensure that windows go up and down with the correct push of the switch.

I needed to add the mirrors to the 'new' doors and this needs a hole through the door, between the hinge bolt holes, to take the cable down the door. Of course the hard bit is removing the door card without damage.

 

 

 

The new steering lock was also fitted. This is needed as the key and barrels are bought as a set - all matching. There will just be one other key for the fuel cap.

I haven't fitted the rear door remote lock and the rear side door cables aren't terminated either as I don't have the lock rod or actuators for them. However I powered-up and the windows work and the fob operates the locking so that's good.

Also using the key in the driver's door operates the locking without setting the alarm. That might be useful when camping.

 

 

 

[Peaklander]

Installed the secondhand remote locking at the rear door today, in a freezing garage with the door open. I popped one of the new barrels into the lock, cut a new gasket and fitted the lock to the door. Then I mounted the actuator, which picks-up on one of the rear wiper bolts and there's also a self-tapper into one of those plastic inserts that fit in a square hole. Finally the operating pivot was persuaded onto the rods and into the hole waiting for it.

I had to find-out which way round the pins needed to be in the actuator connector (to preserve the correct colours). This needed the rear door closed switch to be clamped closed and then the lock set with the remote, whilst holding the cables against the pins in the actuator. you can just about see that orange is above the pink in this pic.

 

 

Thanks to @nickwilliams for this helpful thread (I may have done this already)

 

 

Question - does anyone have a pic of the vehicle locking loom / connectors outlet at the second row B posts? I want to terminate mine even though I don't have the door looms or actuators yet and I don't know the position.

[Peaklander]

I found some internet pics for the 2nd row doors but I don't know where the actuator sits. Is it the same as the fronts?

Can anyone help with that please??

 

[Peaklander]

Anyone???

Bolt-on-Bits sell an actuator and operating rod for the front doors but they don't know if it's the same set-up on the 2nd row.

I will remove the door cards if necessary but I hope someone knows.

 

[Bowie69]

I think you can see the plate the actuator is bolted to briefly around 1:50 on this video:

 

 

Not obvious at all, the other side of the door than you might expect.

[Peaklander]

Thanks - I’ll take a look on a bigger screen than the one on this phone!

[Retroanaconda]

Does this help? Seen from reverse.

[Peaklander]

Thanks both. The actuator is where I’d expected it to be. It is just under the lock. Why is it connected across to the front with that long rod though (FQK000040)? I’ll need to investigate.

P.S. @Retroanaconda where has the photo come from?

[Retroanaconda]

It’s from the SP4x4 page, via Google images.

The cross rod and the black crank on the right is for the internal lock button. All should be apparent when you take it apart. 

[Peaklander]

It's strange as I can't find that picture - but it is very useful thanks @Retroanaconda. I can now see that the only extra parts needed are the actuator, short rod and the white 'door-bell crank'. The actuator is the same as the one at the front passenger door, the rod is easy (possibly the same too) and the crank has an extra third tag on it for the actuator rod.

So that's OK from a ££ view but then I see that the inner frame would need to be replaced or modified to carry the actuator. The non central locking one doesn't have the metal at the actuator. I am used the innards and cards from my old doors when I moved to genuine Puma 2nd rows a few years ago.

I don't think I will press ahead with this - the Puma fronts were costly enough and the cabling and connectors added an extra chunk to the bill. I am enjoying the remote locking of three doors - will I be happy with continuing to manually operate the 2nd rows? Not sure but it will be cheaper.

This is the other door panel but you can see the difference in shape.

 

[Peaklander]

I am getting used now to the convenience of central / remote locking, especially as I 'invested' in a couple of lovely silicone fob covers.

I haven't done any work on the second row doors (actuator or harness) as the manual locking is quite handy. The central locking can be operated with the key in the driver's door and doing this doesn't set the alarm. This is the feature provided by the extra two cores at the door connector. The 10AS unit sees a signal to 0V at the turn of the key and toggles the central locking only.

It's going to be quite handy to be able to have one of the second row doors left manually unlocked and to be able to get in and out whilst the other doors are all secure.  

[Retroanaconda]

On 1/17/2023 at 8:34 AM, Peaklander said:

I took the advice of @paul mc and bought a suitable crimper. I couldn't have done the job without it, as the various crimps for the headers, CDL connectors, Superseal connectors, Amp for the 10AS, are very small, fiddly and one-chance items. I needed detailed instructions from him of which jaw to use for a particular crimp type. Most need two or three operations to correctly crimp. It's quite a job in poor light and a cold garage. Lots of temporary lighting was needed for my well-used eyes.

 

@Peaklander can you share details of the required crimp settings for the different pins?

That looks like quite a good crimp tool. I have a ratcheting one which works well but is a bit brutal on these small terminals. Looks like I need one of these for when I sort my 10AS wiring. 

[Peaklander]

I had to ask Paul for help. They are horrible little things to deal with - especially as I did it in early December when the garage was about 1C all day.

I'll dig out my notes and put them on here - I might need to tidy them up a bit and I'll do it as soon as I can.

[PaulMc]

 

10AS connectors -

Green 12-way uses AMP Multilock 070

Grey Hybrid 26-way uses AMP Multilock 070 (x 10), and AMP Multilock 040 (x 16)

 

AMP Multilock 070

For 1.0mm² cable, the conductor and insultation are initially crimped using the 2.4L dies (the 'wings' for the insulation crimp, will first need to be squeezed together slightly)

Then both crimped down, using the 2.0L dies.

 

AMP Multilock 040

These terminals are suitable for a maximum cable size of 0.5mm²

For best results, I crimp them in stages -

Stage 1 - crimp the conductor, using 1.7L

Stage 2 - crimp the conductor, using 1.4

Stage 3 - crimp the insulation, using 2.4L

Stage 4 - crimp the insulation, using 2.0L

Stage 5 - crimp the insulation, using 1.7L

It sounds a bit of a 'faff' - but, you soon get the hang of it.

 

Sumitomo 090

20-way headers (unsealed)

Front doors, electric windows (2-way sealed)

Tail door, central locking (2-way sealed), HRW, RWW, HLBL (6-way sealed)

Unsealed Sumitomo 090 terminals are crimped using the same dies as for the AMP Multilock 070 terminals.

Sealed Sumitomo 090 terminals are crimped the same as the unsealed terminals for the conductor, but have an 'O' crimp around the wire seal, using the Ø4.0 dies.

 

The front doors and rear side doors central locking, use AMP sealed MQS connectors

These are crimped using the 1.7H dies for the conductor (0.75mm² and 0.5mm² cable) - and, for 0.5mm² cable, crimped down further using the 1.4 dies.

The wire seal is crimped to the terminal, using the Ø2.5 dies to peform an 'O' crimp.

 

The AMP SuperSeal terminals are slightly small than the AMP Multilock 070 terminals, but the conductor crimps are a similar size.

The wire seal is crimped to the terminal, using the Ø4.0 dies to peform an 'O' crimp.

 

The central locking actuator connectors (YPC500140) are Yazaki/KET SSD 050

The conductor is crimped, first with the 1.7H dies, then crimped down further using the 1.4 dies (for 0.5mm² cable).

The wire seal is crimped to the terminal, using the Ø2.5 dies to peform an 'O' crimp - ensuring that the oval shaped seal is orientated correctly to fit the cavity in the housing.

Once the terminals/seals have been inserted, the horse-shoe shaped retainer is clipped into the rear of the housing.

 

AMP Econoseal 070

These terminals are the same size and shape as AMP Multilock 070 - the conductor should be crimped in the same way.

The wire seal is crimped to the terminal, using the Ø4.0 dies to peform an 'O' crimp.

 

.

Edited March 21, 2023 by PaulMc
Added AMP Econoseal

[Bowie69]

Thanks for posting all that, was finding the same with other terminals, wondering why I couldn't get a good crimp with just one operation -you've basically just validated my approach of it being a multi-part operation.

 

 

 

 

 

[Retroanaconda]

Fantastic - thank you both!