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I'm probably echoing the reply from ashtrans but the new gear in the picture is cross drilled to allow the input shaft splines to be lubricated.
My understanding is that a cross drilled input gear is not available for a suffix B LT230 and hence is not the right part.

You do have the option of fitting an oil feed plate but I get the impression it's not an ideal solution.

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12 hours ago, Snagger said:

Fortunate timing - Mike just released a video on the matter showing different generations of gears, the later cross drilling and the interim oil feed plate Muzaz mentioned.

https://youtu.be/m8R5DM9Nwfo?si=aYdQNG28i7fMAwBw

Yes I see that it was him who got me to look at my gearbox and transfer input shaft and cost me money,😂

yes I’ve had both of them side by side same length same width same bearing size 

only difference was pto but not needed 

but the cog splines them self altho they are both 26 teeth the new one is a tad wider both ends so guessing that’s the problem 

I’ll go for the original FRC5428 no oil holes 

get an oil adapter 

can it not just be drilled out 4 holes? 

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27 minutes ago, Green200tdi said:

Yes I see that it was him who got me to look at my gearbox and transfer input shaft and cost me money,😂

yes I’ve had both of them side by side same length same width same bearing size 

only difference was pto but not needed 

but the cog splines them self altho they are both 26 teeth the new one is a tad wider both ends so guessing that’s the problem 

I’ll go for the original FRC5428 no oil holes 

get an oil adapter 

can it not just be drilled out 4 holes? 

Yes you can.

14 hours ago, muzaz said:

You could try to drill it, but it's hardeded, especially on the internal splines. I did one on my mill with a carbide endmill, goes through with ease being careful when aproaching the spline. Some people do it with a masonry drill, works as well but probably you'll break some.

The new input gear you have although the same no of teeth has a different tooth profile, that's why it binds.

The FRC5428 you need has a shorter spline, probably the reason LR did not cross drill them and used the modified oil plate instead.

 

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10 hours ago, Green200tdi said:

can it not just be drilled out 4 holes? 

As someone said further up the thread - you can drill it but it's very hard material, and TBH although the splines wear in the undrilled ones it does take many years, the oil splasher plate should be more than enough to keep the splines happy.

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5 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

The holes have to be eroded, not drilled.

The oil feed plate will work.

 

Ok, 

I guess another way would to be remove it once a year on say a service grease  it up? It’s not an every day vehicle anyway, 
 

I’ll look out for the plate if anyone has a link be great, 

 

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If you don't manage to find an oil plate and have no access to a milling for drilling the holes, have a look at this guy...he got your exact problem and managed with some masonry drills.

 

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Posted (edited)

removing once a year is better than nothing.

Drilled will be best.

Drilling with a mesonary bit will be possible. They have a hardended blade. But you will need a lot of passion and cooling fluid.

I find the YT movie not very clever.

Edited by Sigi_H
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Have a good look around your area. You might find someone with a workshop as did I. In a hamlet near me is a guy with all sorts of machinery doing precision jobs for industrial customers. All on his own. He has a water jet cutter and a spark eroder amongst many things. He eroded a 6mm grubscrew with broken Allen key.  He also made my Salisbury axle height gauge and dummy bearings.

You might be surprised and find someone who can produce your holes. 

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On 5/30/2024 at 7:00 PM, muzaz said:

If you don't manage to find an oil plate and have no access to a milling for drilling the holes, have a look at this guy...he got your exact problem and managed with some masonry drills.

 

Cool I’ll have a look now 👍😊

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10 minutes ago, Green200tdi said:

Cool I’ll have a look now 👍😊

Well that was interesting must of cost him a few quid in drill bits?

good to see videos like this tho. 
thank you.

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 I once bought some drills that looked like masonry drills from the NEC bike show, they were brilliant, I wish I could replace them, however when ever I tried to drill through a pilot hole the carbide would break and render the drill bit scrap. In my experience it is better to just drill through with the finished size, sharpened masonry bit and not bother with the pilot hole, I have broken less bits since doing this

Regards Stephen

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I drilled one with a cheap 10mm carbide endmill on a mill. Went right through without any issues, the surface is not hard at all but the spline inside is.

You will at least need a pillar drill and some sort of vice. Keep the pressure down on the quill when breaking through. A couple of masonry drills should not be expensive, and a 10mm carbide endmill from aliexpress costs £10

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExXY5v9

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Even though the gear is made from a forged blank they are still heat treated. This makes the surfaces “hard” you can simply grind some of the surface where you will drill. You won’t need to go very deep, maybe 1mm. This will help to start and drill the hole. Of course it won’t help the internal side but that’s only the last bit of drilling. 
 

I don’t see the appeal in using a masonry drill bit. Yes they often have a tungsten carbide insert but their cutting geometry is very poor. A good quality HSS drill bit will do the job with prior surface grinding…

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On 6/5/2024 at 5:46 PM, Green200tdi said:

Thanks all 

looks like the one I brough is now going back and I’ll end up with the original type and get a splash plate. 

Well all is well 4 hole one sent back and DLS have sent out the correct replacement. More new bearings to buy now.🙄

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