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As a long term side effect of lock-down, and having vehicles sitting on trickle chargers, I'm going to have to buy new batteries for my 1979 110 (with a retrofitted V8)  and my 955 86" S1 same questions for both vehicles.

Last time I asked this question - the resp1955 86" S1onse was Tayna for the supplier, and Numax for the battery - the model was chosen on the basis of the biggest battery that would fit with the biggest capacity and the highest Cold Cranking 

The same model seems to have been down graded by 80 CCAs and 15Amp Hours 

There seems to be an Enduroline Car Battery with better specs and slightly less cost.

All of the questions apply to the 1955 86" S1 too, but I have it so well wrapped away - I can't get at it to measure the battery - any help with dims would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks as ever 

Cheers Bill

 

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I've been using Yuasa for over 10 years for mine and clients Land Rovers and they last well and hold a charge if idle for a time. 

Several types are available in std. and SHD (with more CCA and a/hrs)

Steve

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I run a few fridge vans that use the battery power overnight to run the cooling fans in the back, they also do multi drop work. I was using enduroline batteries from tayna as they had good specs on paper but they just do not seem to last and as such I have gone back to my local motor factor and buy whatever they have that's half decent spec at a good price with decent warranty.

Having had good mail order service from tayna and hearing many good reports I sent a driver out of his way to drop off a battery that would only do one start on a Monday morning after the van had sat idle all weekend ( no electrical usage) before being too flat to turn it over, I had even tried a few reconditioning cycles on a ctek mxs25 but it made no difference. However after testing they emailed me to tell me the battery was perfectly healthy there was nothing wrong with it and furthermore I must have an issue on the vehicle. Anyway new battery purchased locally, fitted and the issue has gone.

I guess what im trying to say is I can't fault taynas pricing or mail order service but the warranty isn't worth anything in my experience, it left me disappointed and I am hesitant about using them again.

 

 

 

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Whatever the local motor factors have on offer with a 3/4/5 year warranty and a name you recognise. Bosch / Varta / Exide / Yuasa etc.

Stop/start batteries are AGM and built for a bit of abuse.

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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Whatever the local motor factors have on offer with a 3/4/5 year warranty and a name you recognise. Bosch / Varta / Exide / Yuasa etc.

Exactly.

I switched from two batteries with split charge to one big battery on the 110, got a cheap "Lion" brand, it's about 8 years old, it's been abused and it's still going strong.

It's just a battery, no need to overthink it.

Euro car parts or Halfords with a trade card for the best prices.

 

9 hours ago, miketomcat said:

optimas got very expensive and seemed to lack longevity.

They were fitted as standard to Chrysler vehicles, the dealer I worked for also had the Chrysler franchise, their guys used to replace loads of them under warranty, they self discharge.

Two friends bought them when they were the "in thing" to have on winch vehicles, both suffered the same self discharge issue.

Utter rubbish.

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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

the tactical extreme heavy duty coffee maker and super military grade overland all-weather kitchen sink

I actually laughed out loud - 'Tactical' is the most over-abused word in circulation at the moment!  

 

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12 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:

Varta Batteries on my 110, the last one did 13 years of neglect. I use Tayna Batteries.

Same here. https://pellylandroverdefender.blogspot.com/p/battery-box_20.html - Later dispensed with the original battery clamp and used straps instead to avoid any unexpected cross loading of the battery terminals.

Type 019 Varta Silver Dynamic Car Battery 12V 100Ah. with a CCA rating of 830A - That said, there may now be "better" models available.

Tanya delivered very promptly and well packaged. Fitted 8 years ago and still working a treat. 

Fitted the same to my mates Defender 90 TDCi

 

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On 7/29/2024 at 2:00 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

I see a lot of the overland crowd fitting very expensive lithium batteries that need special DC-DC chargers and all that and do wonder what happens if either part fails - at least with lead acid you can walk into any car/truck/tractor/boat supplies anywhere in the world and buy a new one. 500+ quid for a fancy battery buys you a lot of amp-hours in lead acid, and I can't believe the weight saving really notices in most people's trucks by the time they've fitted the tactical extreme heavy duty coffee maker and super military grade overland all-weather kitchen sink :ph34r:

My view exactly.  It's just posing and fashion following, and many of the youtubers are parasites influencers who get expensive but mediocre bling for free and lie about its benefits.

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On 7/30/2024 at 12:45 AM, Oakmaster said:

I actually laughed out loud - 'Tactical' is the most over-abused word in circulation at the moment!  

 

Along with "military grade", which to anyone in the know means lowest quality.

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It has been a while since my cars have been used, but I had very good reliability and performance from Banner batteries bought at my local autoelectrics shop. the Varta I bought at Halfords didn't last long at all and was a big disappointment for the price.

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Lies from influencers are only a problem, it you take their chatter serious and listen to them.

I allready mentioned my article about LiFePO4.

LiFePO4 is a lot better than lead/acid, but you have to throw some knowledge about batteries (most of it is lead) over board. If you know what to do with them, you can enjoy their advantages. Otherwise you will run into problems, which makes you think, that lead is the better solution.

fyi here is the translated article

https://www-explorermagazin-de.translate.goog/bauberi/lifepo23.htm?_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

 

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The inability to charge in freezing conditions rules them out for me.  I’m surprised you have any liking for them in Switzerland, given the winter weather.

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I put 100Ah in my Land Rover. Guess how long I can drive without any charging.

Firing up uses 1% of capacity. Light is LED.

In reality this is not a problem if you got a battery with heater. I did.

 

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If you have a Costco card, they are normally pretty competitive on price with the likes of Tayna and some of the other online suppliers, and are potentially easier to deal with should you need a warranty claim - they will probably refund you or just swap it outright no questions asked.

I had an issue with a dead battery from one of the other online retailers (not Tayna) - before they would RMA the battery they wanted a print out from a specific type of digital battery tester, which I would have likely had to pay a local garage with the right kit for...

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The heater is not to keep the battery warm all the time.

If the battery is to cold, it takes the charging current to heat the cells. As soon as the cells are warm enough, it switches over to charge the cells. This will take some time and I never tested it. I don´t know the power of the heater, because it is not relevant. edit: ahh, I saw in the text it is 130W.

here is a discription of the battery I use

https://www-bulltron-de.translate.goog/technologie/bulltron-polar?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

To me that means, putting the battery in styrofoam is always helpful, even with lead.

 

Edited by Sigi_H
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I just resurrected a Varta StopStart AGM battery that had been left for at least a month with a 2A load across it's terminals. Since the battery is about 6 years old, and this most certainly qualifies as abuse, I was already resigned to buying another battery.

It took some effort to get it to accept a charge - I strapped it to a 1kW bench supply and force fed it until it stopped resisting :blink: (Remember kids, don't try this at home!) Then I trickle charged it at a couple of amps for several days.

I didn't have time to measure its available capacity, but it's back in the car and cranks the TGV effortlessly, even after being left standing for a couple of weeks.

With an old fashioned dumb alternator, it probably doesn't even get properly charged in normal use. I continue to be impressed with how resilient these things are.

 

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2 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

If the battery is to cold, it takes the charging current to heat the cells. As soon as the cells are warm enough, it switches over to charge the cells. This will take some time and I never tested it. I don´t know the power of the heater, because it is not relevant. edit: ahh, I saw in the text it is 130W.

So if you're charging it's using up to 10 amps to warm the battery up - what about when you're not charging and need the battery to work in the cold? Does it turn the heater on to keep the battery warm?

10A is not an insignificant load on a battery.

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The bat recognises that it has to be charged and heats with the provided power until it is warm enough. Then starts charging. Discharging is not affected down to -20

As I wrote, the heater is NOT to keep the bat warm.

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