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Greasing UJ’s


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15 hours ago, jason110 said:

@Shackleton has just uploaded an excellent video to his YouTube on UJ’s. Well worth a watch 

I looked at the profile and didn't see it, is there a way of unearthing it (maybe there's a search technique I could usefully use) or sharing a link? 

TIA 

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On 9/7/2024 at 8:36 PM, Anderzander said:

Is there a good way to get grease into all the cups on a UJ? 

For what it's worth, after 40 years of Land Rover ownership and 45 years repairing all sots of vehicles professionally...

Use molybdenum disulfide grease (CV joint grease), and warm up the joints with a hot air gun if the grease has dried in one cup (not normally a problem when you use Moly grease.

Jack up a wheel so you can spin the prop's during greasing.

Grease every month, if you can.

Don't use cheap universal joints.

Buy a decent grease gun and learn how to fill it properly.

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22 hours ago, Peaklander said:

His channel is ‘Soup Classic Motoring’.

Any clues, I've gone past 6yrs of titles and see no mention of UJs, there are some 5yo Range Rover restoration vids which I'll look at for my defenders. 

Maybe it's my foggy Covid brain, but I can't see anything about them, just supercars, unicycle, lotus and sprinter stuff etc. 

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15 minutes ago, Steve Marquis said:

Any clues, I've gone past 6yrs of titles and see no mention of UJs, there are some 5yo Range Rover restoration vids which I'll look at for my defenders. 

11:55 in this video, should link to the correct time:

 

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This is similar to what George is saying:


that’s about assembling it though - and I was wondering if there was an alternative to rebuilding it.

On 9/7/2024 at 8:38 PM, Bowie69 said:

G clamp round it to move the spider to one side. 

Bowie’s comment makes sense - I guess you’d just remove the one circlip and press the cup (where the grease come come out from) a little bit deeper to tighten it up?

14 hours ago, pat_pending said:

warm up the joints with a hot air gun if the grease has dried in one cup

I have heard farmers say they put sort it by putting a torch on the UJ - I did worry that would just burn up the seals… it hadn’t occurred to me that a heat gun would work too.

I did have an air powered grease gun, and when I could get it working it seemed that the abruptness of the pressure helped get it to all the cups much more than the manual pump.

14 hours ago, pat_pending said:

Buy a decent grease gun and learn how to fill it properly.

This is likely the situation with that air gun though - I never really got to grips with it. It could be the guns quality but it’s more likely user error.

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2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

Bowie’s comment makes sense - I guess you’d just remove the one circlip and press the cup (where the grease come come out from) a little bit deeper to tighten it up?

If you want to do it that way use a socket smaller than the internal size of the circlip.

 

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3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

11:55 in this video, should link to the correct time:

 

@FridgeFreezer and @Peaklanderthanks both for the video link, I've learned a bit about modern welding too (learned oxyacetylene in the mid 70s as nothing else was a thing). I'm going to burn too much time on that channel, cheers folks. 

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Shackleton specialises in making things hard for himself by filming in stop motion. The episodes that caught our imagination was the series showing the restoration of a classic Range Rover.

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6 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Yup. 

Yes, on the initial cup, but if you have 2 opposed cups that get all the grease, I push these cups against the spider, to close of the gap between the cup and spider. This closes off the grease path, so the grease now has to choose a different path.

Like this:

large.IMG_0854.JPG.ddb779788723391b03c68

The nut under the G-clamp compresses both opposed cups, while the vice compresses the Rh cup against the spider (against the wooden blocks). I am greasing the cup on the left.

This way, all your cups last basically forever. It is a real pain when the props are on the car though. Any other ideas, like heating up your U/J, use the correct grease all help, but are not really a solution to this problem. even a brand new U/J, quite often does not grease to all 4 cups in my experience. You only need a micron difference in gap between the U/J and the cup, or the cup seated very slightly on an angle, and the grease chooses the path of the least resistance.

Dirtydiesel attempted to solve the problem, From memory, by drilling a hole and welding a nut to every cup and close off the grease paths in the spider. So have a nipple on every cup you can service them individually.

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I'd also recommend the Doost D600 coupler, it positively locks onto the zerk, and is slim enough to do 300 style propshafts.  Makes it much easier if you haven't got 3 hands. Struggles with the Puma u/js with the zerk in the middle of the spider ( why t.*. did they do that?) but what wouldn't?

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Since using the K48 grease that Gwyn Lewis sells I've had no trouble with getting grease out of all 4 bearings on my UJs.

It's similar / same stuff that Pat_Pending is recommending to use above.

Much better than using GP grease.

Mo

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